table saw fence question

[OscarG]

Hi Bob, we both have v similar machines. I got the slightly bigger 7491 version.

I can understand the need to sometimes remove the crown guard (and it's built in RK) for ripping narrow pieces less than 2.5cm but I don't know why you can't install the standalone RK. I've never needed to remove that for anything.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned (apologies if I'm wrong) is the length of the piece you're trying to rip, if it's too short I think it might be too hard/dangerous to control.

If you're trimming small pieces I wonder if you're better off making a crosscut sled Bob.

 

[lurker]

Bob,
I think the problem is cracked, not sure how Amazon works there, but the right blade is going to set you back about £30 were you in the uk. Bunging one in your (or visitors) suitcases is not going to be a major problem.
I can imagine you are a bit p ed off at the moment, but think this thread might help others in the future.
We are all a little wiser at your expense.

 

[sunnybob]

I am coming to England at the end of next week. Although I already have a shopping list big enough to make the mrs squint at the luggage allowance i might just be able to squeeze another blade in.
Do you think it would go cabin baggage? (no, dont answer that).

Can anyone tell me the EXACT tooth and rake count i would need to rip cut hardwoods please?
bearing in mind I need a 260 mm blade.
Thanks for the explanations. As often repeated, i have zero experience with these machines, its all another steep learning curve.

 

[sunnybob]

I've just been watching some utube stuff and it appears that I need a "30t glue line ripping " blade to achieve what I want.

Anyone have opinions on this as opposed to any other ripping blade?
And any links to a Uk supplier of same?
ta.

 

[powertools]

I following advice from this forum purchased a fru blade for my table saw. It was easy to purchase from Toolstation or Screwfix both listed the blade of the size I needed and both stated it was a universal blade but when it arrived it clearly was just a cross cut blade.
I have given up trying to find a supplier of fru blades of the type and size I need so at last weekend woodworking show I purchased 2 trend craft pro blades 1 for ripping and 1 for cross cut and could not be happier.

 

[Trevanion]

You'll really struggle to find a good variety of blades in 260mm, it's a bit of an odd size. You also won't find a "glue line rip" blade in the UK, that's just American marketing nonsense.

Get yourself something like a LP30M or LP20M blade from Freud in a 250mm diameter, I've been shifting over towards CMT blades lately and I rate them pretty good if you want something else.

 

[shed9]

I've been shifting over towards CMT blades lately and I rate them pretty good if you want something else.

+1, I'm really liking their cutter blocks and saw blades. I'm getting most of the cutters from Italy via Mobiltecnica (https://www.mobiltecnica.com/) and they have just been superb. Delivery is faster than from UK distributors.

Sorry Sunnybob, slight tangent.

 

[LancsRick]

FFX and Screwfix in the UK have a good selection of Freud, and a replacement riving knife for the saw should set you back less than £20. That'd be my approach.

@Trevanion I've not tried the CMT blades but I have their blade cleaner and it works a treat!

 

[Steve Maskery]

FWIW, I used to have a lot of CMT stuff, when Axi used to sell it. Good quality at a sensible price, I always thought.
It all got stolen, but I have a couple of replacements and I have no regrets. (Well not about CMT, anyway!)
S

 

[Noel]

+1 for CMT blades.

 

[shed9]

Just to add for possible distributors of CMT, I've used these guys in the UK for CMT as well;

https://www.applebywoodturnings.co.uk/c ... 0250%20saw

The guys on the end of the phone use the tools themselves so will be able to help if you call them Sunnybob.

 

[Bodgers]

I have a Freud pro 16 tooth LP20M blade for ripping. It is a great blade.



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[Steve Maskery]

I have a Freud pro 16 tooth LP20M blade for ripping. It is a great blade.

I'm sure it is, but Bob is cutting only 20mm. Is that blade still good on such thin stock? I've never used anything that coarse, so I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it would be a bit aggressive. How do you find it on thin stuff?

A couple of days ago I was ripping 3" accoya. 10" blade, 24T FTG. It did a superb job, very clean finish.

However, I've got a job coming up where I need to cut lots of very narrow strips of 22mm oak. For that I shall use my combination blade, which has a short row of small gullets followed by a big gullet. So it is a compromise. The teeth with the big gullets act as rippers, the teeth with a small gullet cross cut. It does both jobs adequately (but not as well as dedicated blades - in particular, ripping is noticeably slower), and handles MDF cleanly, too, so it lives on my saw most of the time. I don't actually do much cross-cutting on the TS, tenon shoulders and that's about it. But I like it mainly because it is thin kerf, so when I'm cutting lots of thin strips I shall make less sawdust and as all those 0.5mm add up, I shall probably yield an extra strip from the same board into the bargain.

 

[sunnybob]

Even I questioned 16 tooth :shock: I had always assumed that the more teeth there were the finer the finished cut. That was the sum of my knowledge as far as table saws go.

I dont cut the the same type or size of wood as most people here do.
I would say that over 99% of what I cut is hardwood (mahogany, beech, bubinga, cherry etc etc) and the thickest is likely to be 50 mm.

I just want the wood to come off the saw with a surface straight and smooth enough to glue. I dont make any joints with the wood, its all for decorative boxes and shapes.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ripping 50mm is a different job to ripping 20mm. The trouble is you are searching for a unicorn. Thin stuff, thick stuff, rip, crosscut, no further finishing required...
If you find such a blade, please let us all know. I, for one, would buy one.

 

[Bodgers]

I have a Freud pro 16 tooth LP20M blade for ripping. It is a great blade.

I'm sure it is, but Bob is cutting only 20mm. Is that blade still good on such thin stock? I've never used anything that coarse, so I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it would be a bit aggressive. How do you find it on thin stuff?

A couple of days ago I was ripping 3" accoya. 10" blade, 24T FTG. It did a superb job, very clean finish.

However, I've got a job coming up where I need to cut lots of very narrow strips of 22mm oak. For that I shall use my combination blade, which has a short row of small gullets followed by a big gullet. So it is a compromise. The teeth with the big gullets act as rippers, the teeth with a small gullet cross cut. It does both jobs adequately (but not as well as dedicated blades - in particular, ripping is noticeably slower), and handles MDF cleanly, too, so it lives on my saw most of the time. I don't actually do much cross-cutting on the TS, tenon shoulders and that's about it. But I like it mainly because it is thin kerf, so when I'm cutting lots of thin strips I shall make less sawdust and as all those 0.5mm add up, I shall probably yield an extra strip from the same board into the bargain.

I have ripping 6mm wide strips for Dominos without problems. Seems to be pretty clean.

I initially did several 3mm strip test cuts in beech and Sapele with some pretty smooth results.

This is a 210mm blade though, so at 250mm the equivalent is probably 24 teeth or something...


Tests shots below on Sapele. Both sides cut with the blade. One side is when it was an offcut, the other the work piece side...

One side you can see some saw marks but you can't really feel them they are so shallow. Otherwise they are almost imperceptible.

 

[MusicMan]

Bob, if you can get to Warwick I would be happy to show you my setup and blades. It's a Wadkin with 250 mm blades, and an add-on short fence. I have Freud 25T rip, an 80T crosscut and a combo blade (50ish). I can give you a tutorial and you can try them out. I even have a couple that I've not tried out yet. I'm around till 29 April then away for three weeks.

Best wishes

Keith

 

[Steve Maskery]

This is a 210mm blade though, so at 250mm the equivalent is probably 24 teeth or something...

You didn't tell us that!

 

[sunnybob]

Bob, if you can get to Warwick I would be happy to show you my setup and blades. It's a Wadkin with 250 mm blades, and an add-on short fence. I have Freud 25T rip, an 80T crosscut and a combo blade (50ish). I can give you a tutorial and you can try them out. I even have a couple that I've not tried out yet. I'm around till 29 April then away for three weeks.

Best wishes

Keith

Keith (strangely enough thats my sons name), thats a very kind offer but I will be in somerset for most of my time in the UK, with a quick trip to cornwall. I dont drive in the UK, its too expensive to have two named drivers on a hire car, so I dont get to go off on my own any more.

 

[Bodgers]

This is a 210mm blade though, so at 250mm the equivalent is probably 24 teeth or something...

You didn't tell us that!

In all fairness there wouldn't be much difference in the cut quality between the two anyway...8 extra teeth over 40mm...

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