STICKY SUBJECT

[Alexam]

Resurfacing a working surface in the garage about 14' x 2'. It is rather old chipboard and a little uneaven in places.

I have 18mm hardwood plywood to surface it with and wondered if the best thing to screw and glue would be 'No Nails' or some other woodworking glue? There are also 2x2 timbers around and I will finish the edge with a 1/4 "strip of hardwood.

Alex

 

[Alexam]

Didn't think it was a difficult question. Can anyone help please
Alex

 

[RossJarvis]

Didn't think it was a difficult question. Can anyone help please
Alex

Once again, only an amateur view here, but might you want the surface to be easily replaced? If the current surface is flat enough to adequately support it, just screw it on, with countersunk holes so that you can flip it over when sufficiently battered and then replaced when the other surface is sufficiently battered.

I'm thinking a plywood surface may be more easily damaged than solid beech or similar, so therefore more likely to need restoration.

regards

Ross

 

[MIGNAL]

Screws only. Then you can flip it when the surface is worn.
- beaten to it!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you feel you must glue it - if you have holes bored and countersunk, screws ready in place and drill driver ready to go, polyurethane glue is probably as good as anything. Don't use no more nails, or products like it as it is extremely difficult to squeeze out, whereas polyurethane is more liquid but will expand to take up the gaps. It's not cheap, but it's better than a cockup. Get the slower curing one if possible, and don't use too much - it expands. It should give a good, dead surface layer. If you find the bigger hollows first, you can use more adhesive in those places.

 

[Alexam]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought of screwing it down only. This may be the way to go and it does then leave another side to use if the top gets too damaged. I plan to give it a good coat of something to harden the ply top and seal that and the surrounding timber edge. Any suggestions?

Alex

 

[Steve Maskery]

If it is only the surface that is dead, you could just use DS carpet tape to stick down the new board, just around the edges. That way you don't have any screws to find with your chisel...
When time come to flip it, any old glue can be cleaned off with cellulose thinners.
S

 

[marcros]

or dont fix it to the chipboard. A decent lipping will keep it from sliding around.

 

[xy mosian]

Just how uneven is it? I'm not into super flat surfaces myself, but I might be a bit concerned about variation in support for your 18mm ply.
xy

 

[Alexam]

Just how uneven is it? I'm not into super flat surfaces myself, but I might be a bit concerned about variation in support for your 18mm ply.
xy

The support is OK, I can actually stand on it and it does not move. The first ply board is 8' x 2' and is on to a wall. Looking at it. the far right corner needs to bend down about 1/4" as the following board sits flat. I'm not over concerned as it can be screwed down, but originally I was thinking glue and screw.
Alex

 

[Max Power]

1/4" sounds a bit thin for the edging

 

[Alexam]

1/4" sounds a bit thin for the edging

OK, I'll make it 1/2" just for you, who knows far more than me. Perhaps 1" would b even better?
Thanks
Alex

 

[Alexam]

I'm still thinking about glue and screwing the hardwood ply to the 'uneven chipboard. There are just a few dips in the chipboard and as I am not concerned with turning over the hardwood ply later on, so the glue will help.

Is there a specific glue that would help this unevenness a little?

Alex

 

[MMUK]

You could fit a sheet of 1/2" polystyrene under the ply. This will take out any unevenness

 

[Alexam]

You could fit a sheet of 1/2" polystyrene under the ply. This will take out any unevenness

Thanks, but I am already set up with the ply cut to size and the bench vice fitted. I do not really want to add another 1/2 inch to the height as it's enough already.

Just thinking of filling the dips in the chipboard first, with either a floor leveling compound, or something like pollyfilla, bearing in mind that I will glue the ply to it. Are there some glues that will expand to help fill in the indentations and dips. There is a section about 12" where the dip would be about 1/8 - 1/4"

Alex

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Polyurethane!

 

[John15]

Hi Alex,
I doubt that floor levelling compound or poly filler to fill the low spots will stay intact for long once the bench is in use.
Regards,
John

 

[Alexam]

Hi Alex,
I doubt that floor levelling compound or poly filler to fill the low spots will stay intact for long once the bench is in use.
Regards,
John

So, any suggestions please

Alex

 

[MMUK]

The polystyrene I mentioned will compress as you screw the worktop down. If the indentations are only minor, you could use 1/4" poly instead, like the sheets you get in packing.

 

[AndyT]

Coming in late to a simple question, if you want to permanently stick your big sheet of flat stuff to another surface which has dips and voids so it won't touch everywhere, then yes, the sort of construction adhesives sold in builders merchants or diy sheds will do the job.

In my limited experience there is a bewildering range of choices. I have not used all of them!

I have used Gripfill in a slightly similar job - sticking flat engineered flooring onto old worn out stair treads. I used Gripfill in spots, as you might use mortar dabs when laying a patio, pressing each piece down to make it level. It worked really well and has been down for years with no problems. It was fairly stiff, so if your gaps are very small, it might be difficult to compress it down to nearly nothing. (It would be no good for a properly fitting joint. )

I expect lots of similar products would be just as good.

Having said all that to answer your question, if it was me making it I would just use some screws and then glue on some lipping. You should be able to feel the top getting stiffer as you go on.