Skirting board

[Eric The Viking]

It worked fine.

You don't really need depth, unless you are expecting your boards to warp spectacularly. In which case, do what the Victorians didn't and prime all over the board - back, front and edges. I almost always use aluminium primer, as it kills rot as a side-effect and makes knotting unnecessary. That should stabilise the moisture content and rerduce any propensity to change shape with the seasons (won't stop it totally tho!).

Fix the ply well and it should be fine. You're only holding a board on the wall after all.

In the recent case of our bedroom, it was far less of a bother than other approaches I've tried in the past. Also, you can hang the U-shaped plastic packers over any screw at the back of the board. The disadvantage is you\ll lose the packer if you take the screw out (you might try a broad scraper or something under the skirting before you remove it, to catch the packer before it drops under the boards).

E.

 

[kevinlightfoot]

Not often do I post but if I were you and it is ground floor I would follow Erik the Vikings advice about chopping back plaster and using self tightening softwood plugs cutting flush with the plaster above and fixing with lost head nails,may sound old fashioned but it is the tried and tested correct way to do the job.One plug every two feet staggered up and down for high skirting.Dont forget to prime the back before fixing.

 

[Mike Jordan]

The assurance that three hinges is the norm is wrong. If you were hanging a solid oak front door, three hinges would be justified to bear the weight. Internal doors are usually hung on one pair of hinges. Three hinges can only be used if the casing leg you are hinging to is dead straight, any curve in either plane will will cause the casing to move as the door is opened and closed.
If you are hanging the doors to existing frames the hinge location may vary slightly on each frame, it's advisable to plane the door to fit before marking the hinge positions directly from the frame. Also the hinge sinkings may be of different depths.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You obviously haven't a wife who insists on hanging bags, coats etc. from doors.

 

[Mike Jordan]

If you are only intending to hang 9 doors a jig like this will take 20 minutes to make and cost nothing.
This one is one I use for hinging roof lights to the frames on dutch barges.
You clamp it to the door and use a 30mm guide bush and a 20mm diameter cutter.
Mike.

 

[lsx]

It worked fine.

You don't really need depth, unless you are expecting your boards to warp spectacularly. In which case, do what the Victorians didn't and prime all over the board - back, front and edges. I almost always use aluminium primer, as it kills rot as a side-effect and makes knotting unnecessary. That should stabilise the moisture content and rerduce any propensity to change shape with the seasons (won't stop it totally tho!).

Fix the ply well and it should be fine. You're only holding a board on the wall after all.

In the recent case of our bedroom, it was far less of a bother than other approaches I've tried in the past. Also, you can hang the U-shaped plastic packers over any screw at the back of the board. The disadvantage is you\ll lose the packer if you take the screw out (you might try a broad scraper or something under the skirting before you remove it, to catch the packer before it drops under the boards).

E.

Thanks all for the advice.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

Well i seem to be in a minority here, i have tried plugs and no-nails but went back to the old way, cut nails. They are brutal but do the job, ,you have to pre-drill the hole in the skirting board ot it WILL split when the cut nail is driven through. They hold very well in all kinds of wall. The real problem comes when someone has to renew your work later on, the the skirting board is prised off the cut nails leave a big hole.