Silly question? Cls timber framing.

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Hsmith192

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Hi All,

I was wondering what type of screw I should be using for 3x2 (63mm x 38mm). the wooden studs are 63mm CLS's and I was planning to use 70mm screws? Are these too small.

Also what size screw do I use to attach plywood onto the timber?

I am planning on French cleating so it will be a load bearing wall.


Thanks in advance
 
80mm galvanised ring-shank nails.
Don't screw the stud wall together- if it goes right, it takes too long, but likely you will get splits and slack joints unless you drill clearance and pilot holes for every screw.

As to attaching your ply to the studwork, ROT is 2 1/2 times the thickness of the ply-so dependent on the ply chosen.
 
80mm galvanised ring-shank nails.
Don't screw the stud wall together- if it goes right, it takes too long, but likely you will get splits and slack joints unless you drill clearance and pilot holes for every screw.

As to attaching your ply to the studwork, ROT is 2 1/2 times the thickness of the ply-so dependent on the ply chosen.

If I don’t have a nail gun can screws be used for framing the CLS?
 
I'd use 5x80mm using a 4mm pilot drill through the header and outer will make it easier to screw in. Most often screws have a drill tip to make things easier.
 
I avoid screws in framing. Modern woodscrews are so hard and brittle that ever the tiniest bit of deflection or movement may cause the screws to snap. Often with disastrous results. They ara also almost impossible to get out of the wood when something has to be repaired. There are only three methods for taking apart a screwed structure after 20 years when the screws have got stuck. Fire or dynamite or excavator.
I nail almost everything load bearing with hammer and square galvanized wire nails.
Though sometimes I may be cheating with a nail gun. Nail guns use round nails which don't work as well together with the wood and therefore have less shear strenght.
 
Nothing wrong with using screws @Hsmith192, for me it just depends on the size of the job as to whether it’s worth setting up the compressor & first fix nail gun or just using a couple of cordless drills one with a pilot drill the other with a driver bit.
I knocked this bit of studding up the Monday before xmas
IMG_20241223_103627003.jpeg


As it was such a small job I opted for 80mm screws slower than a nail gun but not much in it when compared to nails & hammer, that said there’s no right or wrong way as long as the walls well braced it doesn’t really matter.
 
With a decent drill I find 6x80 or 5x100 screws go in very fast and I do tend to use Timco Velocity. For some stud work I will even resort to using my HD Kreg pocket hole jig and use pocket hole screws placed in from opposite corners rather than the old method of toe nailing.
 
Why ? You would be better getting hardware from a decent outlet and timber from a woodyard or good builders merchant as the wood I have seen in B&Q is really just expensive firewood.

Hi, it was just to get the screws from the trade section? They were gold screw variants that I’ve used before. But Timber has been brought from a timber yard.
 
Ever tried banging 4" nails into woodwork in old houses? You're lucky if the plaster anywhere near stays put.
Quite a bit, actually. Most of my work is old listed houses in Bath. Straightening out a wonky floor, where disturbing the ceiling plaster of the room below could incur a ten grand bill, you develop a technique
 
Plus one on Timco screws. However, I’ve never seen them at B&Q. In fact, my local B&Q’s hardware section is so badly stocked, I’ve more than once found myself re-sorting things so the correct screws, washers, etc, etc are in the right boxes!
 
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