should i just bite the bullet and get a sorby pro edge?

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My B&D sander doesn't have guards on the sides, what took the time was removing the work platform and associated bits. It was a real PITA till I made a new adjustable table. The lever is a bit worn on mine - needs replacing at some point, but I could change the belt without actually stopping the machine!

This is it with the belt off.

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As shown I use 2" belts for tool sharpening but I can quickly remove the auxiliary platen and fit 6" belts for other work. It does need to be carefully cleaned after sanding wood though as any dust can start to smoulder once you go back to cutting steel!
 
Random Orbital Bob":22xiuw7k said:
I also leave the covers off mine...far quicker.
Oh, is that bit a cover? I thought it was packaging :lol:

Took mine off to fit the belt, first time I used it and it's not been back on since. It just clutters the place up while I keep it, just in case I ever decide to sell the pro edge.
 
I thought I might answer some of your questions from practical experience having just bought a SPE
gavinr":228fqjmo said:
i've been looking at options for sharpening my chisels, basically starting from scratch with the necessary equipment, and i keep being referred to, and reading on the www, that the sorby pro edge is the way to go.
It certainly is a brilliant solution for sharpening turning tools (and other edge tools too). Within ten minutes of getting it out of the box I was getting fantastic results and have spent the afternoon re-shaping/sharpening and refining all my turning tools.
I think that most beginners would also find it easy to use too. Yes you still need use some care in use, but if someone finds that the SPE is difficult to use woodturning is probably not for them.
assuming that the plus is worth the extra spend over the standard model, i'm reckon one will cost me £150 more than a basic 6" bench grinder and jigs.
Yes, you'll need the full version. Despite what our resident nay sayer might say, the jigs are excellent and make getting good results simple and repeatable. It would be pretty pointless to buy an SPE and then not use the jigs, it's the product's major advantage. Yandles are offering a good 'special edition' package at the moment that has all the important bits at a good price.
also if i look for a used one are there any pitfalls to look out for?
They're as rare as hen's teeth SH. One's I've seen have either been a bit rough and rusty, or lacking so many of the essential extras that there's too little saving compared to buying new.
for a novice is this money well spent?
Now this is the most difficult thing to answer. Primarily it depends on your budgetary limitations and what you already own.
A bench grinder set up with some home made jigs will be a third of the price and deliver good results without a huge amount of practice.
Before investing in the SPE, I'd say you ought to have at least a decent chuck and bandsaw. (assuming lathe and a decent selection of basic tools)
 
Rhossydd":3t15owq0 said:
...Yes, you'll need the full version. Despite what our resident nay sayer might say, the jigs are excellent and make getting good results simple and repeatable. It would be pretty pointless to buy an SPE and then not use the jigs, it's the product's major advantage.....
Don't waste your money on the jigs.
Freehand is a bit chancy at first but you soon get the hang of it - quicker, cheaper and very easy.
To make it "repeatable" you just do it "the same way" every time (once you have cracked it).
Don't let them "de-skill" you!
for a novice is this money well spent?
Any ordinary belt sander is just about as good AND also does sanding! 2 for the price of one. So the Sorby is a bit of a luxury. Having said that I won't be parting with mine.
 
Jacob":2pav8btg said:
Don't let them "de-skill" you!
As ever you're missing the point and suggesting people need to always take the hardest method of work.
When you begin woodwork you can't 'de-skill' someone because they don't have the skills to loose.
A jig just makes life easier and more productive, it allows people to learn woodworking instead of tool sharpening.
Do timber merchants 'de-skill' woodworkers by providing ready cut timber instead of making people go out and fell trees themselves ?
Do tool manufacturers 'de-skill' woodworkers by providing ready made tools instead of making people go out make them themselves ?
 
Jacob":22j8gfhh said:
Rhossydd":22j8gfhh said:
...Yes, you'll need the full version. Despite what our resident nay sayer might say, the jigs are excellent and make getting good results simple and repeatable. It would be pretty pointless to buy an SPE and then not use the jigs, it's the product's major advantage.....
Don't waste your money on the jigs.
Freehand is a bit chancy at first but you soon get the hang of it - quicker, cheaper and very easy.
To make it "repeatable" you just do it "the same way" every time (once you have cracked it).
Don't let them "de-skill" you!
for a novice is this money well spent?
Any ordinary belt sander is just about as good AND also does sanding! 2 for the price of one. So the Sorby is a bit of a luxury. Having said that I won't be parting with mine.

Spoken like a man who produces a dozen turned items a day on a lathe and sharpens HSS bowl gouges every 4-5 minutes, NOT.

If you have the spare cash to invest in the pro-edge (we all like a bit of luxury, just depends on which one's you priority) and want to concentrate on turning output rather than wasting steel learning an unnecessary skill then go for the jigs, twelve months down the line with a few hundred items under your belt and an appreciation of what tool configuration suits your turning methods best, then there will be those you can dress without a jig but I'll guarantee that there will still be some you get more rapid and constant results by spending the few seconds locating in a pre-set jig.
 
Rhossydd":2zrrukis said:
...
A jig just makes life easier and more productive, it allows people to learn woodworking instead of tool sharpening.....
Jigs add complexity and slow things down. They create dependency like crutches (are supposed to). It's a very recent sharpening fashion.
It always seems a bit sad to me that people are encouraged to buy daft gadgets and not learn how to do some very simple things properly.
It's your choice - if you don't have them you won't miss them.
 
CHJ":2doxd27k said:
...
Spoken like a man who produces a dozen turned items a day on a lathe and sharpens HSS bowl gouges every 4-5 minutes, NOT....
I have done long runs of hundreds of items in the past (knobs, shaker pegs and a few other things). Not into bowls, urns etc but I have done a few of these.
Being able to touch up an edge in seconds is very handy - turning and other tools too. All that faffing about is unnecessary. The Sorby has an adjustable tool rest anyway, with a scale for angles. Why would anyone want more than that?
At least have a go before you are persuaded to give up - it's really easy and it doesn't matter if you don't get it right first time.
 
Jacob":xhu7c2ay said:
Rhossydd":xhu7c2ay said:
...Jigs add complexity and slow things down. They create dependency like crutches (are supposed to). It's a very recent sharpening fashion.

I seriously doubt there are many who use the jigs for the SPE who would think they are complex or slow. (Except you Jacob :wink: )
Personally I find them incredibly quick and simple in use. Instant repeatable angles, what on earth is wrong with that, especially for a beginner if they can afford the cost ?
Best time saver I ever invested in!

So... if you don't need it Jacob, why not sell yours to the OP and do him a favour?

cheers
Bob
 
Jacob":5npjyccc said:
The Sorby has an adjustable tool rest anyway, with a scale for angles. Why would anyone want more than that?
Er, that's a jig. The bowl gouge part that fits in the rest just makes life easier, faster and more reliable. It also makes grinding square and true dead simple too.
The fingernail jig is also fast and easy to use. Trying to make good fingernail grinds without a jig takes a LOT of skill and practice, there's simply no need to waste expensive tool steel and, most importantly, valuable time learning that skill when a simple jig makes it so simple.
 
I was taught how to sharpen twist drills to near enough 118deg. angle and reasonable rake clearance free hand within a couple of hours when I was 15 yrs. old and for general drilling use still do it the same to this day quite effectively some 60 yrs. later, but if I want a special to drill as near as possible to it's designed diameter without having to drill test holes I use a jig to ensure the lip lengths are as true as possible.

Likewise after 10 years sharpening my turning tools I can grind them all free hand if necessary but in order to be able to take some of them off the rack and use them without a risk of a catch or forgotten quirk from the last sharpening deviation I go for the jigs which are pre-set and need no adjustments of angles etc.
Like driving an automatic car, something I've done for years, it reduces the chance of me making an error and gives me more time to concentrate on the essentials of getting from A to B without making a pigs ear of it.
 
There is an army of folk who are into jigs for sharpening processes. Particularly makes sense if you are a tool maker - they (should) produce perfect repeatable results.
But there is, and always has been, an army of folk who do it nearly all freehand. The results are usually not so perfect to look at but may well be just as functional in use.
That's all there is to it. It'll stay that way too.
 
Jacob":fma9e7t9 said:
There is an army of folk who are into jigs for sharpening processes. Particularly makes sense if you are a tool maker - they (should) produce perfect repeatable results.
But there is, and always has been, an army of folk who do it nearly all freehand. The results are usually not so perfect to look at but may well be just as functional in use.
That's all there is to it. It'll stay that way too.

Agreed but those of us who decide to use a jig don't belittle or ridicule those who don't. Neither do we come out in print to newbies and state there is only one way that should be considered. Your "crutch" comment was typical opinionated claptrap.
Room for all methods Jacob, not just the one you happen to prefer and those of us who responded to the OP original question gave an honest opinion without derogatory comments on any other system.

cheers
Bob
 
In point of fact on this occasion I do have some sympathy for your viewpoint. I have a Proedge as you may recall but there are many times when I'm right in the middle of a piece of turning and all I want is a quick tickle to bring back the edge....going to all the faff of setting up the jig is just keeping me away from the crucial "muscle memory" zone I'm in with that particular piece and I don't want to be disturbed for fear of being thrown off.

On those occasions which 9 times out of 10 are a detail gouge, skew or bowl gouge I want the fastest route to a new edge and I'll just roll it freehand or even use the card file in my pocket.

So for newbies I can see both sides. There is so much for them to learn that adding the complication of freehand sharpening must be like climbing a mountain. On the other hand, the confidence it gives you is worth the struggle. It's difficult to give a right and wrong answer to this. it's more a question of priority.
 
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