shingling

[pike]

I'm taking delivery of a 10x10 waltons groundsman apex tomorrow (just for storage). Ordered it last night! Talk about fast delivery. I'd like to beef it up a bit as others have done though so I can maybe keep my wood/tools in it.

The plan is to t&g the floor, insulate, horizontal batten (for hanging tools and shelves), vapour membrane and plasterboard the walls and roof.

I'm looking at wickes red shingles but I've no experience of roofing so was hoping for some advice. Is it easy to do? Could I put them straight on top of the felt which the shed comes with?

Thanks!

 

[Graeme]

Not an expert, but when I did my shed, I was advised to battern on top of roofing felt, then attach the shingles using special bronze nails to the battening. I think the idea is that this gives some airflow under the shingle and the cedar reacts with ordinary nails.

 

[Vormulac]

I believe one of the other reasons bronze nails are used is that as they are soft they can be sheared cleanly by a roofers hook should any of the shingles/tiles need replacing, rather than trying to rip out conventional nails and risking damaging the roof or the batons beneath.

 

[Martingchapman]

Pike,
Wickes Red Roof Shingles are not cedar they consist of strips of felt with one edge cut to look like shingle.
Download this pdf from Wickes for details of how to install them.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/resources/images/gil/64.pdf

Regards - Martin.

 

[lurker]

Hi Pike,

My shed is a Waltons.

I repainted it before I errected (I advise you to do this).

I doubled up the battens under the floor panels

I put down 18mm ply on the floor after erecting the shed as normal. I never used the screws /nails provided but replaced all with appropriate sized pozi.

The Felt they send is rubbish but I just bunged it on and then Wickes own on top of that. I thought about shingles but can't
be a7$ed

The windows are not up to much & my plan is to replace, but they are still on my tuit list 3 years later. Ditto the doors.

Otherwise (and I went in with my eyes wide open) it has been a good buy

 

[pike]

Thanks all.

Martin: yeah they aren't cedar, there's no way I'm buying cedar shingles for a cheap shed I've seen the instructions and they talk about a wickes underlay, I was just thinking I might be able to put the shingles directly on the cheap naff felt?

The battens idea sounds interesting but I'm not sure what the airflow is for in that area? I'm guessing that is for real shingles. There isn't a ridge vent or owt as far as I know.

lurker thanks for the advice. They are sending me free timber treatment, do you mean paint in addition to this? I'm under no illusions as to the quality of this shed But I'm using it as a temporary store and base while I take my time planning a real workshed. I think the floor and the roof are the main things I need to sort out. Thanks for the flooring batten idea.

Pike

 

[lurker]

The shed came on lurid orangy brown.

I painted over this with a blue preservative from Wickes (needs another coat now after 3 years). ( was lots cheaper that waltons stuff).

I heavily dosed the underside of the floor with some Creosote ( bought before it became illiegal). :twisted:

I've been thinking about your plan to t& g the floor. Unless you have free stuff I'd say you are giving yourself work & potential problems.
My ply has been a good floor and with a little wear has become a quite pleasing pattern.

 

[pike]

i'll see what the free tubs of cedar red look like

ive got the t&g now before i read your message lurker, so will let you know how it goes but thanks for the comments.

also splashed out on wickes red shingles as i think they look quite nice and fancy giving it a go. may end up needing stuck down not just clouted.

 

[ProShop]

i'll see what the free tubs of cedar red look like

ive got the t&g now before i read your message lurker, so will let you know how it goes but thanks for the comments.

also splashed out on wickes red shingles as i think they look quite nice and fancy giving it a go. may end up needing stuck down not just clouted.

Pike, your right the Wickes shingles need to be stuck down, but onto a firm surface, ie not on the loose nailed down felt that comes with most sheds..

 

[pike]

Pike, your right the Wickes shingles need to be stuck down, but onto a firm surface, ie not on the loose nailed down felt that comes with most sheds..

ah well i stuck the cheap shed felt on just as a quick job on the day i built it. i thought it wouldn't be much different from the wickes underlay for the shingles.

i'll need to work out a good way to put the shingles up. right now im just looking at them and thinking they'll lift in the first wind.

 

[Hammerrash]

If it's any use this is a link to a manufacturers specification pdf which includes the fixing details.

http://www.johnbrash.co.uk/downloads/cm ... ochure.pdf

Use battens preferably 38mm x 25mm graded & tanalised. If you are insulating the roof from underneath you should consider counter battens also to avoid condensation.

 

[pike]

Thanks Hammerrash but they are not cedar shingles. They are just fake ones. asphalt or the like.

 

[MikeG.]

The plan is to t&g the floor, insulate, horizontal batten (for hanging tools and shelves), vapour membrane and plasterboard the walls and roof.

Pike,

could you be more specific as to your proposed wall build-up.......going from say inside to outside?

Mike

 

[pike]

Hi Mike,

My plans have changed regarding the walls since I posted.

As far as the walls go I'm thinking something like this (inside to out)

ply 12mm maybe 18 depending on price
(wouldve put vapour membrane next but after reading a few posts from you Mike, I think I can just rely on the ply)
rockwool between the framing
outer cladding

This will be a wood and tool store not my workshop, so I don't have to worry about sound insulation.

However, the shed is already up and i think the insulation could get wet through the cheap cladding. The framing is only 2 inches tops so I don't have much space.

If this wasn't pre-built I imagine I'd put breathable membrane (builders paper?) between external cladding and framing.

 

[MikeG.]

Right, that's fine Pike. Just a couple of things.....OSB is cheaper than ply, and just as effective (if not so pretty!), and if you could space the insulation off the cladding, even by a gnats, that would help.

Mike

 

[Martingchapman]

Pike,
Go back to my earlier post and you will find a link to the Wickes leaflet that tells you all you need to know about laying their shingles (its on the last two pages 11 and 12 of the leaflet)
Martin.

 

[pike]

Thanks Martin. I read it. I just wanted to know if anyone had put fake shingles on top of cheap felt instead of the recommended underlay. As I don't know what the underlay is like. I'll try and have a look at it next time I'm at wickes.

 

[pike]

Right, that's fine Pike. Just a couple of things.....OSB is cheaper than ply, and just as effective (if not so pretty!), and if you could space the insulation off the cladding, even by a gnats, that would help.

Mike

Thanks Mike. The build centre was charging the same for the OSB and ply I was after, but I've found bnq doing 11mm osb a lot cheaper so I think that will do.

Anyone got any thoughts as to what sort of load I'll manage? It's only a waltons 2x1 framed shed. Even with the osb I guess my timber will have to sit on the floor.

 

[MikeG.]

I'm not sure what sort of load you are referring to, but you could always strategically re-inforce the 2x1 by screwing full-length 2x2 in alongside one or two of the frame members.

Mike

PS 11mm OSB is plenty strong enough for what you intend. You really should try Builder's merchants for prices of ply and OSB, rather than crappy DIY sheds. You'll be amazed at the price difference.

 

[pike]

Thanks again! I think I will add to every other vertical. On the 2 windowless walls, to strengthen for shelving. I guess I don't need to also add noggins, as the osb/ply will add the rigidity and places for fixings I need.

I'll keep looking for a better price on the osb. bnq were actually the cheapest so far for 2.4 x 1.2 11mm. That includes a builders merchant. Probably need to do some in person trips to get a fair deal.