Shed build, many many questions...

[Torx]

I think installing the corrugated cladding horizontally looks pretty good, the only reason I can find so far to avoid it is cleaning. It would save double battening.

 

[Dave Moore]

I’ve got an air compressor and a small boy who can run quite fast…

Hi,
you can get perforated aluminium mesh which is set at 90degrees for air venting from cedral suppliers.
regards,
Dave

 

[Torx]

Bit of a break doing other things, plus the vented soffits still haven't turned up and I want to have a look at it fitted before I make a decision about cladding, but I'm pretty set on corrugated steel on the side and rear (probably galv or painted black to keep it 'non-combustible' as I found out from another member that the plastisol coated stuff will be combustible).

I think I mentioned that the UPVC window I got didn't come with a sill. Any comments on this arrangement?

 

[Jameshow]

You can buy upvc cill material.

Or use a 4x2 with the corner planned off.

 

[HOJ]

Plastic windows usually have drainage slots in the bottom rebate, i'd be inclined to get a plastic cill so it can perform as it was intended to, must be a UPCV window supplier/maker locally that will have miles of the stuff

 

[Torx]

You can buy upvc cill material.

Or use a 4x2 with the corner planned off.

That’s the plan - I could definitely get a sill but since I won’t have a matching UPVC door I think a wooden sill matching the cladding would look better and I’ll box in around the window. Just wondering if I’ve made any massive errors in the way I plan to fit the window, with the membrane etc, a lot of people wrap it inside the building but think cutting it halfway inside the frame makes better sense?

 

[Molynoox]

Bit of a break doing other things, plus the vented soffits still haven't turned up and I want to have a look at it fitted before I make a decision about cladding, but I'm pretty set on corrugated steel on the side and rear (probably galv or painted black to keep it 'non-combustible' as I found out from another member that the plastisol coated stuff will be combustible).

I think I mentioned that the UPVC window I got didn't come with a sill. Any comments on this arrangement?

View attachment 146148​

Looks about right. I used that Dupont flexwrap stuff in addition to your layout but I don't think I needed to. It gives a more complete seal on the internal frame but I don't see water getting in there anyway.

 

[HOJ]

I think a wooden sill matching the cladding would look better

Just seems like a lot of extra cost & effort to be honest, just be mindful, as I said, about the drainage holes in the windows.

a lot of people wrap it inside the building but think cutting it halfway inside the frame makes better sense?

That's the way we do it, just fold it in and cut it off to the inside face.

Also why not use 9mm OSB rather than 11mm, its manufactured principally for this purpose, its nominally smaller though, to allow for expansion gaps.

 

[Torx]

Just seems like a lot of extra cost & effort to be honest, just be mindful, as I said, about the drainage holes in the windows.


That's the way we do it, just fold it in and cut it off to the inside face.

Also why not use 9mm OSB rather than 11mm, its manufactured principally for this purpose, its nominally smaller though, to allow for expansion gaps.

I didn’t spot any drainage holes but I’ll have a closer look. I’ve already fitted the external skin in 11mm OSB but I’ll remember that for next time.

 

[Joe1975]

I have just built a 5m x 3m studio with a similar design. Just a few points.

EPDM was easy to install and looks great, there is no way I would suggest using anything else.
TYVEK house wrap is brilliant (although expensive), I injured my back during my build and had to delay things. The wrap has been stapled and battened on for about 18mths now and is still fully protecting the building waiting for me to finish the cladding.
I used 70mm PIR insulation in the walls with it tight up against the plasterboard. In retrospect it would probably have been cheaper and just as good to use 50mm centred in the cavity. The silver foil reflects heat only if there is an air cavity.
I used 9 Very solid (dug down 18” nearly to chalk bed, 5” reinforced concrete and three blocks) supports for the base and 5” timber, I think your method of more blocks but no foundations will prove to be better and much less work.
Don’t skimp on anything especially lighting and sockets. I think I spent five times longer researching, designing, planning and costing than building. Loved every minute. Enjoy the rest of the build.

 

[Torx]

I have just built a 5m x 3m studio with a similar design. Just a few points.

EPDM was easy to install and looks great, there is no way I would suggest using anything else.
TYVEK house wrap is brilliant (although expensive), I injured my back during my build and had to delay things. The wrap has been stapled and battened on for about 18mths now and is still fully protecting the building waiting for me to finish the cladding.
I used 70mm PIR insulation in the walls with it tight up against the plasterboard. In retrospect it would probably have been cheaper and just as good to use 50mm centred in the cavity. The silver foil reflects heat only if there is an air cavity.
I used 9 Very solid (dug down 18” nearly to chalk bed, 5” reinforced concrete and three blocks) supports for the base and 5” timber, I think your method of more blocks but no foundations will prove to be better and much less work.
Don’t skimp on anything especially lighting and sockets. I think I spent five times longer researching, designing, planning and costing than building. Loved every minute. Enjoy the rest of the build.

Pictures?

Mines still in the Tyvek stuff too, but it seems ok at the moment.

Cladding for back and sides (galv steel) has arrived but currently buried in the snow.

Actually I did put foundations under my blocks to about the same depth - probably unnecessary but I’m not sure this will always be a workshop - it was a lot of work, I think there’s about 2 tonnes of MOT altogether.

I agree, the EPDM is great, wouldn’t consider anything else for another similar build.

 

[Molynoox]

I used 70mm PIR insulation in the walls with it tight up against the plasterboard. In retrospect it would probably have been cheaper and just as good to use 50mm centred in the cavity. The silver foil reflects heat only if there is an air cavity.

Careful doing that - generally speaking, centering PIR inside a cavity is not good, it would create an air pocket adjacent to the cold side. It does depend on your wall design though, if you don't have any external sheathing it's probably ok, if you do have external sheathing its probably not ok, especially if it's OSB

By the way if you have any sources regarding the equivalency of the 50 Vs 70 I would be interested to take a read through it

 

[Torx]

Eventually ‘finished’, some time last year I think.

Thanks for all the advice.

Might have to move it a few feet to the left now, due to a house extension.

 

[MF1000]

Jack it up and use rollers to move it