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My experience of match planing is different to yours, I think the straight blade makes a lot of difference, using a cambered blade does create a gap, even though it may be slight, this of course is doubled when match planing.
Different people different experiences, I find it a remarkable method for jointing edges, time saving and accurate. 🙂
One of the things I experience with match planing that makes the job relatively slow is when after preparing the pair of edges ready for gluing and checking for good alignment is when that alignment isn't good. Incorrect alignment at this point means undertaking corrective work for which two methods are effective. The first is the two edges are corrected individually which is essentially the same technique as standard edge preparation. The second is to put the two boards back together, ideally in exactly the same alignment as before, and make the corrective planing. I've always found that it's very rare to get the two boards in exactly the same alignment at the second time of asking, so you end up not starting all over again exactly, but at least part of the way to staring again.

I can understand your argument or reasoning for preferring a plane iron's straight cutting edge for match planing, but I've always found the arced cutting edge of a plane iron useful, especially for correcting an out of square edge - you just move the plane right or left on the edge as needed, and the end result still works. Correcting an out of square edge with a straight cutting edge means tilting the plane or move the lever to tilt the blade to make the correction. Yes, I know the argument is that the two out of square edges created by a straight plane iron's cutting edge are complementary so they'll go together perfectly, but if they're more than a degree or so out of square clamping pressure tends to result in a step. Slainte.
 
I can see "match planing"* could be useful in certain circumstances, but won't you sometimes end up planing against the grain on one of the boards?

*While I was aware of the technique, I had not heard it called "match planing" before this thread.
 
Just been back in time to see a cave man friend, spoke about sharpening.... he wanted to know the best way to sharpen his flint axa.... does not have google to ask
Ok silly post, but was meant to be... humans have been sharpening “things” since we first discovered what thumbs were for
They must have been helped by aliens from planet Veritas.
 
......... I've always found the arced cutting edge of a plane iron useful, especially for correcting an out of square edge - you just move the plane right or left on the edge as needed, ......
Exactly. Another thing that's difficult with a straight edge. In fact a straight cutting edge is useless on anything approaching wider than the blade. Cambered blade works like a shallow gouge and can remove stuff neatly from the surface, where a straight chisel could not.
 
I can see "match planing"* could be useful in certain circumstances, but won't you sometimes end up planing against the grain on one of the boards?

*While I was aware of the technique, I had not heard it called "match planing" before this thread.
Yes, anytime you're doing a book-matched pair.
Just another reason I don't use this method
 
Exactly. Another thing that's difficult with a straight edge. In fact a straight cutting edge is useless on anything approaching wider than the blade. Cambered blade works like a shallow gouge and can remove stuff neatly from the surface, where a straight chisel could not.
Not impossible though, Jacob, to straighten a board's out of square edge with a plane iron that has a straight cutting edge, usually were the the corners of the iron have been bevelled off a bit. So, for example, if the right corner of a board's narrow edge is high, move the plane to the right so that the left corner of straight sharpened blade travels along roughly the middle of the board's edge. That will take off the high corner on the right side. Next take a full width shaving or shavings to bring the edge into square.

Believe it or not, it can work. How do I know? Well, over the decades I've been around a lot of woodworkers all with their different preferences and I've come across and used planes set up with straight cutting edges on the irons, and done exactly as I described. I can't say I like that method of working preferring the arced cutting edge rather than the straight one, but it can work.

I may be a cranky and opinionated old b**tard with my prejudices and preferences (remind you of anyone?), but I'm also adaptable and able to work with all sorts tools and situations that don't exactly match what I like best.

Take sharpening, for instance, where I have the only infallible and perfect method. On the other hand, better not, ha, ha. Slainte.
 
Me? Yes. Slainte.
Never heard of "match planing".

I sharpen all my tools by eye, occasionally using a small engineer's square.
I only use a single bevel on most wood chisels especially Japanese. Ditto plane irons.

Truly sharp is shaving up your arm.

I have sharpened my Sedgewick 16" plane irons freehand on a wet wheel, chucked the jigs away.

For mortise chains, which cost a fortune, I use a Dremel freehand and x2 magnifying specs.

What works is what is right.
 
One of the things I experience with match planing that makes the job relatively slow is when after preparing the pair of edges ready for gluing and checking for good alignment is when that alignment isn't good. Incorrect alignment at this point means undertaking corrective work for which two methods are effective. The first is the two edges are corrected individually which is essentially the same technique as standard edge preparation. The second is to put the two boards back together, ideally in exactly the same alignment as before, and make the corrective planing. I've always found that it's very rare to get the two boards in exactly the same alignment at the second time of asking, so you end up not starting all over again exactly, but at least part of the way to staring again.

I can understand your argument or reasoning for preferring a plane iron's straight cutting edge for match planing, but I've always found the arced cutting edge of a plane iron useful, especially for correcting an out of square edge - you just move the plane right or left on the edge as needed, and the end result still works. Correcting an out of square edge with a straight cutting edge means tilting the plane or move the lever to tilt the blade to make the correction. Yes, I know the argument is that the two out of square edges created by a straight plane iron's cutting edge are complementary so they'll go together perfectly, but if they're more than a degree or so out of square clamping pressure tends to result in a step. Slainte.
I'd better just point out that I would and do use a cambered blade for edge jointing boards, anything over 23mm thick becomes difficult to match plane with my number 7, I don't have a number 8.
The other thing about this match planing thread is, it started by Jacob suggesting there was very little to no need for a straight edge to a blade, I just listed a few things where a straight edge is beneficial, I didn't suggest it was the only way to straighten a board or the best way, although personally I do find it very good.🙂 I have a few spare blades which some are honed straight and some are cambered, I just use whichever one is most suitable for the task in hand.
Oh and if Jacob is reading this I can choose to prepare an edge straight or curved because I have flat stones 😉😂
 
Exactly. Another thing that's difficult with a straight edge. In fact a straight cutting edge is useless on anything approaching wider than the blade. Cambered blade works like a shallow gouge and can remove stuff neatly from the surface, where a straight chisel could not.
Yes Jacob, a straight blade is useless on anything wider than the blade, has this thread now turned into stating the bleeding obvious?😂
 
Yes Jacob, a straight blade is useless on anything wider than the blade, has this thread now turned into stating the bleeding obvious?😂
Not obvious to all by any means.
We have to plane things wider than the plane, such as the face of boards. A straight edge blade makes this difficult. People struggle with this for a long time, perhaps move on to rounding off corners to reduce the tramlines.
Eventually they'll hit on cambered blades - perhaps buy a gadget or two to make this possible.
This sort of thing, with a brass knob on. https://www.toolnut.co.uk/products/veritas-camber-roller
In time if they are lucky they may realise that modern sharpening is really difficult and have a go at normal freehand sharpening.
Then instead of buying even more gadgets, they just revert to the tradition! Problems solved, and at a fraction of the cost!
But don't worry about it - just carry on as you are!
.....I can choose to prepare an edge straight or curved because I have flat stones.....
Actually, with a bit of practice, you could probably produce an edge, straight, curved, whatever, even on a round stone found on a beach, if you really had to. Not the first choice of course, but say you were shipwrecked and having to fix up a boat, and so on. Would you just give up? :unsure:
 
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Not obvious to all by any means.
We have to plane things wider than the plane, such as the face of boards. A straight edge blade makes this difficult. People struggle with this for a long time, perhaps move on to rounding off corners to reduce the tramlines.
Eventually they'll hit on cambered blades - perhaps buy a gadget or two to make this possible.
This sort of thing, with a brass knob on. https://www.toolnut.co.uk/products/veritas-camber-roller
In time if they are lucky they may realise that modern sharpening is really difficult and have a go at normal freehand sharpening.
Then instead of buying even more gadgets, they just revert to the tradition! Problems solved, and at a fraction of the cost!
But don't worry about it - just carry on as you are!

Actually, with a bit of practice, you could probably produce an edge, straight, curved, whatever, even on a round stone found on a beach, if you really had to. Not the first choice of course, but say you were shipwrecked and having to fix up a boat, and so on. Would you just give up? :unsure:
Probably the wackiest post you`ve ever written Jacob, "modern sharpening is really difficult" "shipwrecked and fixing up a boat" I`ll put it down to the early hour you wrote this.:)
 
Probably the wackiest post you`ve ever written Jacob, "modern sharpening is really difficult" "shipwrecked and fixing up a boat" I`ll put it down to the early hour you wrote this.:)
He didn't say that, let's use the quote tag properly shall we?
We have to plane things wider than the plane, such as the face of boards. A straight edge blade makes this difficult.
Which of course is correct
Not the first choice of course, but say you were shipwrecked and having to fix up a boat, and so on. Would you just give up? :unsure:
This is called thinking on your feet, something every working Joiner etc has encountered
 
Probably the wackiest post you`ve ever written Jacob, "modern sharpening is really difficult"
You obviously haven't noticed the endless talking/writing/filming about sharpening, and the huge range of kit being discussed, bought, invented, improved, discarded. Obviously an ongoing problem.
"shipwrecked and fixing up a boat" I`ll put it down to the early hour you wrote this.:)
Supposed to be slightly ironical. Imagine you are working in a building far from the workshop and having to sharpen a chisel, with no kit at all. :oops: How would you do it?
TBH the whole topic makes me laugh. e.g. Honerite gold is comical - persuade people to use expensive waterstones, then persuade them to buy expensive stuff, pricier than a good whisky, to make water not behave like water (rust - who'da thought it! :ROFLMAO: )
 
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Actually, with a bit of practice, you could probably produce an edge, straight, curved, whatever, even on a round stone found on a beach, if you really had to. Not the first choice of course, but say you were shipwrecked and having to fix up a boat, and so on. Would you just give up? :unsure:
A heresy I know, but I doubt I would be terribly concerned about a few tramlines!
 
Why don't you all just stop banging on. Set up your table saws and planers correctly! If you cant be asked then get a true straight edge and run your router down it. This is the machine age. We left the cave long ago. When I make a table top I have to earn £150 not 15 pence cos I have been f****** about with hand planes all day. Jeez. Skol.
 
You obviously haven't noticed the endless talking/writing/filming about sharpening, and the huge range of kit being discussed, bought, invented, improved, discarded. Obviously an ongoing problem.

Supposed to be slightly ironical. Imagine you are working in a building far from the workshop and having to sharpen a chisel, with no kit at all. :oops: How would you do it?
TBH the whole topic makes me laugh. e.g. Honerite gold is comical - persuade people to use expensive waterstones, then persuade them to buy expensive stuff, pricier than a good whisky, to make water not behave like water (rust - who'da thought it! :ROFLMAO: )
You do realise that beach pebble you suggested picking up earlier in the thread would probably have been lubricated with water in the far past. To say nothing of the fact that water stones are not a new invention and have been used with water as a lubricant in Japan probably longer than we in the West have been using oil to lubricate our natural stones.
 
Why don't you all just stop banging on. Set up your table saws and planers correctly! If you cant be asked then get a true straight edge and run your router down it. This is the machine age. We left the cave long ago. When I make a table top I have to earn £150 not 15 pence cos I have been f****** about with hand planes all day. Jeez. Skol.
Yeah but when the apocalypse happens and there is no power your tables will suck 😜
 
You do realise that beach pebble you suggested picking up earlier in the thread would probably have been lubricated with water in the far past.
Not only sharpening but all that fine polishing too, with sand etc. Excellent stuff!
But if you have a suitable stone the advantages of using oil are that it's much cleaner; easy to wipe up or off, doesn't wet the wood, doesn't rust the tools.
It's also cheap and even cheaper and more effective if you thin it with white spirit. 3in1 that is, not ludicrously expensive Honerite No1 - if that was the only option I'd go for water like a shot! Or a nice single malt whisky; usually cheaper than Honerite No1 by volume
To say nothing of the fact that water stones are not a new invention and have been used with water as a lubricant in Japan probably longer than we in the West have been using oil to lubricate our natural stones.
Yes but so what.
 
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