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I'm not getting involved only to ask about Jacobs tables. I have a vague memory of you setting up to sell them. Any other pics. There nicely styled and thought out.
 
It's not a term I've ever heard before this thread, but it's the trick of planing/jointing the edges of two boards in one operation by clamping the boards face-to-face in the vice. When you flip them together to edge-joint, if you planed the edges slightly out of square the angles should cancel out.


Yes but if they aren’t at 90 degrees as soon as you cramp them they will slide out of being flush. And as I and Jacob said just pressing down too hard with the plane on one end will cause a discrepancy and when the boards are put together this will double up and show as a gap. It’s just so easy to put one board in the vice and rest the other on top, then it’s obvious ( with a window or light behind) where to plane a little bit off, job done, glue and you can rub joint them or cramp them.
 
Can one of the more informed, explain what match plaining is
It when you place the two faces of a board to be edge jointed and plane both at the same time. The theory being that any tilt left or right is mirrored on the other part resulting in a perfectly square and gapless joint. I use it with smaller boards and it is a quick approach because it’s half the planing. You can still spring the joint using this method. For longer boards though I don’t use it as this corrects for left to right not end to end. In fact it doubles the error end to end.
 
Those drawer fronts are unusual Jacob, at first I wondered why you had used lap Dovetails when you were putting a false front on top, the I realised how you had use a thick solid piece, I shall file that away for future use.
 
I'm not getting involved only to ask about Jacobs tables. I have a vague memory of you setting up to sell them. Any other pics. There nicely styled and thought out.
I sold a few. A late venture before I got into a big project converting a chapel.
The original I saw in "Welsh Country Furniture" Richard J. Bebb. A lovely little book.
Later I bought his spectacular https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/...GhV8BA-_dRUcBDDjUPUcUCvNvjxG2_w4aAlM8EALw_wcB which I see was a good investment!
Made other bits and bobs - copies of a welsh settle etc.

 
What's a rub joint?

Joking!

A rubbed joint is where you glue two boards together with hot glue and rub them to and fro for a few seconds until stuck and you can let go. No clamps! A combination of surface tension and quick setting glue.
It can work almost the same with PVA but not quite as reliable and light clamping might still be a good idea.
 
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Those drawer fronts are unusual Jacob, at first I wondered why you had used lap Dovetails when you were putting a false front on top, the I realised how you had use a thick solid piece, I shall file that away for future use.
It's how the original was. Small advantage in that you can attach a knob more solidly with a longer glued-in joint pin.
 
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It's not a term I've ever heard before this thread, but it's the trick of planing/jointing the edges of two boards in one operation by clamping the boards face-to-face in the vice. When you flip them together to edge-joint, if you planed the edges slightly out of square the angles should cancel out.


I was taught that way at school. There's a limit to the thickness of the boards, of course.
 
If you dip say 1mm along the length of doubled up boards being "match"planed, when you turn them to meet the gap will be 2mm. If the dip is across the width then they will cancel out, in theory!
Hadn't thought of that - "match" planing can magnify errors. Probably why nobody does it much.
Jacob you keep trying to denigrate this method of edge jointing, I think because you had never heard of it and perhaps you see as a bit of dent in your knowledge, maybe?
Try it before you disparage it any more, if you can edge joint a board reasonably well using a straight edge to check your progress, you'll save time planing up a set of boards with this method. Give it a go, if nothing else it's a method to add to to those you already have and could prove useful. I'll leave the match planing debate there.🙂
 
Jacob you keep trying to denigrate this method of edge jointing, I think because you had never heard of it and perhaps you see as a bit of dent in your knowledge, maybe?
No it was because I didn't know it had a name and was immediately jeered at and berated by yourself and mudman.
I expect I must have had a go at some point - as I said it seems to be one of those many "good ideas" which get kicked around a lot but unfortunately never quite go away!
 
That sounds like it was a fascinating experience Jacob, real back to basics stuff, my parents early Victorian Chippendale chairs were hand axed on the inside of the seat frames, it’s a quick way to remove timber I suppose.
.....
Yes speed. Probably used most often to scribe a board to an uneven surface - pencil off the line with the board butted up then axe back to the line, undercutting slightly, tidy up with a block plane mostly across the edge, not along it.
Or if planing a straight edge on a board edge might be quicker to hack off the waste rather than planing it.
And many other uses. Used to be standard item of kit.
 
That’s a blast from the past, Tops course. I looked at doing the carpenters course, but I am tooooooo much of a free sprite to follow strict/rigid teaching
Well yes, I'm not into discipline either, self or otherwise, but at the time it felt as though it was doing me good! :oops:
 
No it was because I didn't know it had a name and was immediately jeered at and berated by yourself and mudman.
I expect I must have had a go at some point - as I said it seems to be one of those many "good ideas" which get kicked around a lot but unfortunately never quite go away!
I didn`t jeer or berate, I just pointed out a use for a straight blade.
With regard to the axe, my brother (a carpenter 10 years my senior) used one and as you said a standard piece of kit back then, I worked with him after leaving school but I rarely used an axe, a jigsaw was my preferred choice of tool to cut to a scribed line, particularly if it was very uneven.
 
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