SawStop, stops on contact with skin is coming to Europe soon!

[Jake]

I suppose the ideal set up would be push-sticks and safe practice coupled with a mind-erased sawstop-type arrangement as back up - mind-erased so as to avoid sloppy working practices developing on the assumption that it will work when needed.

 

[Ed Weber]

Might as well just have someone else do it and be totally safe

 

[Jacob]

There is a youboob video where a couple guys set the blade a few mm above the table and slapped their hand onto the blade as fast as they could. Brake fired and no blood drawn. If that fast enough? Ultimately you get to decide if you want to have a saw with the technology.

Pete

Have you got a link? Seems utterly improbable to me - hand would come into contact with the sharp teeth themselves, literally to touch them.
The Altendorf idea made more sense - saw would retract if hand came near, not to actually touch.
Not as much sense as using two push-sticks however.
I found this maniac, somebody should tell him he needs a crown guard on his saw. They cover the blade and make it difficult to touch it.

 

[Ed Weber]

One of the main things about the Altendorf, as well as other ideas past and present have employed is that they are non destructive. Where the SS is not
Even push sticks don't ruin the blade

 

[Jacob]

One of the main things about the Altendorf, as well as other ideas past and present have employed is that they are non destructive. Where the SS is not
Even push sticks don't ruin the blade

Maybe the cost and inconvenience of triggering sawstop would finally convince people to use push-sticks? Common sense arriving by a long and expensive route!
Oh well, better late than never.

 

[Jake]

Might as well just have someone else do it and be totally safe

Good idea. They might want to do the same. Robots are the answer.

 

[Jake]

What happens if you touch the blade on a sawstop when the power is switched off?

 

[Jacob]

What happens if you touch the blade on a sawstop when the power is switched off?

Dunno but I'd try it with a sausage first.

 

[robgul]

What happens if you touch the blade on a sawstop when the power is switched off?

Nothing - watch the promo videos and it explains that the brake mechanism has to be "switched on" - it can also be deactivated

 

[deema]

Well, just two messages in total from SawStop since they joined in the middle of last year. I suspect they are hoping this thread dies and are deeply regretting joining the forum!

Apart from bashing from an ideological perspective SawStop, has anyone yet bought one and can do an impartial review?

 

[Inspector]

Deema mine is about 17 or 18 years old and don't know if the same model (ICS) will be available to you guys. I can only say that I have never had any issues with its functionally or the quality.

Pete

 

[Jake]

Nothing - watch the promo videos and it explains that the brake mechanism has to be "switched on" - it can also be deactivated

So there's a hole in the protection then before the blade stops - presumably well braked though.

 

[Inspector]

So there's a hole in the protection then before the blade stops - presumably well braked though.

Incorrect. The brake will fire right down to the last fraction of a turn if touched. As soon as you switch on the power the braking system is active. There is a second paddle button you use to start/stop the saw blade for cutting. Think of it having a power system switch to run the braking system and a second for turning the saw on and off. The second will not work unless the first is on or in rare instances bypassed.

Deactivation of the braking system is for occasions when the brake would fire because of conductive materials like very wet treated wood, foil covered materials or sheet aluminium etc. You have to turn a key and hold the start paddle for a few moments before the saw comes on. Then it is like any other saw without a safety brake system. It won't activate if you touch it as long as the bade is turning. If you switch the saw off then the braking system is reactivated next time you switch it on unless you go through the bypass starting procedure. Materials can be tested before switching the saw on by touching the blade with the material you suspect or with your own finger if you want to check the system (the blade isn't turning for the tests). If the red light flashes the brake system is operational and would fire if the material is cut.

If you go to the SawStop website and look at the manual for the saw you might be interested in it will have a section on how and what the lights mean when they flash along with the way to operate the saw. There is all the information on how to assemble the saw and use it correctly. They are comprehensive manuals and explain it better than I can.

Pete

 

[Cabinetman]

Incorrect. The brake will fire right down to the last fraction of a turn if touched. As soon as you switch on the power the braking system is active. There is a second paddle button you use to start/stop the saw blade for cutting. Think of it having a power system switch to run the braking system and a second for turning the saw on and off. The second will not work unless the first is on or in rare instances bypassed.

Deactivation of the braking system is for occasions when the brake would fire because of conductive materials like very wet treated wood, foil covered materials or sheet aluminium etc. You have to turn a key and hold the start paddle for a few moments before the saw comes on. Then it is like any other saw without a safety brake system. It won't activate if you touch it as long as the bade is turning. If you switch the saw off then the braking system is reactivated next time you switch it on unless you go through the bypass starting procedure. Materials can be tested before switching the saw on by touching the blade with the material you suspect or with your own finger if you want to check the system (the blade isn't turning for the tests). If the red light flashes the brake system is operational and would fire if the material is cut.

If you go to the SawStop website and look at the manual for the saw you might be interested in it will have a section on how and what the lights mean when they flash along with the way to operate the saw. There is all the information on how to assemble the saw and use it correctly. They are comprehensive manuals and explain it better than I can.

Pete

Quite ingenious but it’s still a no, thank you. Turn it on, cut, turn it off, simples. And never with any risk because I bring the fence length back to the safe point and I use two long push sticks. I’m very confident that I won’t have bits cut off as I don’t go anywhere near the blade.
Ian

 

[Chris West]

I've owned one of these for about 10 years. Not only is it the safest saw on the market it is an extremely accurate saw too. I have had zero runout on my blades and the rip fence is sturdy and repeatable to a fraction of a millimeter. Before this, I have used a shopsmith, a craftsman contractor's saw and a Grizzly 10" cabinet saw. None of them come close to the accuracy and repeatablity of a SawStop, not to mention the safety element. I wouldn't own anything else.

 

[Chris West]

I've owned one of these for about 10 years. Not only is it the safest saw on the market it is an extremely accurate saw too. I have had zero runout on my blades and the rip fence is sturdy and repeatable to a fraction of a millimeter. Before this, I have used a shopsmith, a craftsman contractor's saw and a Grizzly 10" cabinet saw. None of them come close to the accuracy and repeatablity of a SawStop, not to mention the safety element. I wouldn't own anything else.

PS, I had to bring mine over from the states. Certainly a pain but well worth it.

 

[Chris West]

Not quite sure what you mean, but if you are pushing a piece through with a mitre fence, past the blade, but feel hands too close, then the push stick answer is to set the piece before the mitre fence (turned around) and push the workpiece up to the fence with a push stick (or two) and push them past the blade together.

Your hand could be 18" away but if it is touching an aluminum fence which touches a spinning blade, the mechanism will actuate. It has happened to me when I had the arbor cranked over a large angle (e.g. approx 45 degrees). The fault is entirely mine for failing to set the mitre gauge up properly before hand.

 

[Chris West]

PS still can't edit posts!
Maybe these devices should be rated with a standard sausage test.
I can swing my arm about 5ft easily in one second. This is about 5.5kph.
Maybe a 10kph catapulted bunch of sausages could be the basis of a standard test?

Gents, the mechanism actuates faster than a fraction of a second (no exaggeration). I have never touched mine with my skin while blade is spinning but I have touched a spinning blade with an aluminium fence. In that case the conductance from my hand through the fence set the mechanism off. The blade stops spinning in a fraction of a second and equally fast it is drawn below the table top. I've no doubt it would prevent any damage to a hand or other body part.

I spent a career in the oilfield and I have seen some horrific accidents. Nobody intends to get hurt but bad things can happen to good people with best intentions in the blink of an eye. I always use a push stick but what happens if the stick or your hand slips? We are just being foolish to think such things can never happen to us.

 

[Jacob]

,,,....... I always use a push stick but what happens if the stick or your hand slips? ......

Good question.
If the the stick slips it might get notched or trimmed. Still usable but after a number of slips may need replacing. £5 or so or make your own from mdf scraps.
That's the whole idea - it's a "consumable", unlike your fingers.
If your hand slips (with a push stick in it) it'll be well away from the blade to start with so should bbe no harm done - you just make sure you grip it tighter next time.
Do people have a problem with open fires? Accidentally putting their hands in? Doesn't everybody use pokers, tongues, or even a handy stick?

 

[Jacob]

Still can't edit posts! Why is this?
Was going to correct tiny typo (be instead of bbe).