Restoring a Vintage Saw

[CHJ]

Judging by the image you provided I would leave it alone as far as re-coating, it looks pretty sound as is. A good once over with a soft brush as **** mentioned (tooth brush for instance) should shift most of it.

If you lightly polish off the commutator use fine (400-600 grit) garnet or glass paper, do not use emery. Carbon on the segments is OK, (lubricant) but you may also have burnt on oil film as well by the looks of it.

 

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

I've brushed off the crud coating the stator; though it's still greasy, which means it'll be a magnet for sawdust. I'm considering trying baby wipes - I haven't found anything which resists them and if they're gentle enough for babies then surely it won't affect the windings since they're alcohol-free?

The oil seal suppliers I mention above are going to contact me tomorrow with a price.

In the meantime I've started electrolytically de-rusting the Myford planer. One bed is done and is now soaking in a tub of caustic soda solution to remove the paint.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[dickm]

Difference between baby's backsides and shellac is that the former don't dissolve in anything!
You are PROBABLY OK with wipes, but I'd recommend you try them out on a bit where the varnish is reasonably accessible and check whether, after wiping a few times, the surface feels more (which is bad) or less (which would be OK) soft and greasy. If the shellac is dissolving in whatever solvent is in the wipes (it might be citrus oil - see what they smell like) then you should be able to feel this.

 

[Mark A]

Hi ****,

Just been researching baby wipe ingredients and I think you're right, the alcohol-free versions do contain citrus oil.

If the original shellac is removed can I give the stator a fresh coating of shellac or varnish? A quick search dug up this

Thanks,
Mark

P.S. I find baby wipes absoultely indispensable - they remove oil, grease, dirt and [wet] paint yet cost less than a quid for 60 or 70 wipes. Much cheaper than "trade wipes" and just as good.

 

[dickm]

Can't see any reason why you shouldn't give another coat of shellac, but my preference would be to accept a bit of dirt and under- rather than over- clean, so you don't risk disturbing anything while the shellac is soft.

 

[Mark A]

Hi ****,

Suppose you're right. Just seemed a shame to leave it when the rest of the saw's nice and shiny. I don't like doing half a job.

I'm waiting for the replacement oil seals and then I can start putting it back together.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[dickm]

Hi ****,

Suppose you're right. Just seemed a shame to leave it when the rest of the saw's nice and shiny. I don't like doing half a job.

Me neither; on the other hand, over-cleaning might end up with it being one and a half jobs

 

[Mark A]

The industrial supplies firm I linked to above could source a pair of seals, but their contact wanted £40 each for them because of the odd sizes! :shock:

They suggested I try another company, Clydach Bearing Supplies who stocked the correct oil seals at a very reasonable price. Success!

I'll set about putting the saw back together this evening.

Thanks for all the advice, chaps!

Mark

 

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

The "Ripsnorter" is finished!

Admittedly it doesn't appear very different to when I began, but internally it's now in good working order. I didn't bother painting the base and lower guard because I intend to use the saw and it would just wear off.

Now the Ripsnorter's out of the way I can focus on some of my other tools which are at various states of restoration: a Myford planer, a Wolf RS10 circular saw and an 8" B&D circular saw.


Thanks for all the advice, it's very much appreciated!


Cheers,
Mark