Quality Froe

[heimlaga]

That Gränsfors froe is obviously electrically welded. With correct preheating and correct rods and slow cooling one can usually weld spring steel and tool steel electrically with good result.

Fire welding spring steel to spring steel is very difficult. Old time blacksmiths and to a lesser degree traditional blacksmiths of today generally build the tool body from wrought iron (nowadays from mild steel) and then fire weld the edge steel in place. That way one can use the surrounding wrought iron to protect the steel against overheating in the forge. Steel is very easily overheated and then it catches fire and the carbon burns out of it. An old time froe was likely made from a flat bar of wrought iron folded to form the eye and with a strip if steel sandwiched in to make an edge. Such a froe would be unaffordable with today's wages.

Punching the eye in a froe would likely not work. There isn't enough of a poll and the billet would likely split. With modern steels it might just barely be possible but with old time materials it was utterly impossible because before they started to roll profiles directly from molted steel coming out of the converter there was a more pronounced grain structure in the rolled material. I would think it necsessary to hire a very expensive lawyer to avoid any liability issues if making froes with punched eyes.

For this sort of kindling splitting there is no seansible alternative to a hatchet or small axe. All other alternatives are significantly less effective and most alternatives are more expensive.
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[pgrbff]

I know this is more than your budget but something like this might be safer for your wife to use. Even if she is well versed in axes it only takes one miss by the misses to end up missing a t'umb.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...71432-softwood-kindling-splitter?item=65U1510
One on an eBay near you.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33457567...rdFF7yW5y4n59MxDbO6bVOdqO3|tkp:Bk9SR7bv4of1YA
https://www.stikkan.net/stikkan.php
Pete

I'm the one doing the splitting. The softwood logs are up to 18" diameter, easy enough to split, but my x27 splitting axe is a bit big and awkward to use.

 

[pgrbff]

For kindling I'd look for something more like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-FAIAXEKINDL-Kindling-Stick-Chopper/dp/B00IT3QYUK
Easier to manoeuvre than a hand axe, so fingers might be safer.

A fro is designed to split long branches, or wide but shorter logs, in both cases using the handle to guide it to an even split. Typical uses are splitting coppice poles for hurdles, or splitting roofing shingles.

Very similar to a Japanese Nata which I am also considering.

 

[pgrbff]

If it's for kindling, wouldn't a hatchet be a better option, using a wooden maul to drive the hatchet instead of chopping with it.

You really need a break to use a froe with any success.

My reason for think a froe might be more suitable is that with an axe or hatchet you have to hold the smaller pieces and strike and withdraw hand at the same time, smaller sticks or narrow wedges wont stand up on their own.

 

[Jacob]

My reason for think a froe might be more suitable is that with an axe or hatchet you have to hold the smaller pieces and strike and withdraw hand at the same time,

Er - that's not how you do it! Stop it immediately you could lose a finger!

smaller sticks or narrow wedges wont stand up on their own.

Well spotted!
How you use a hatchet is hold the target piece of firewood on end, with another piece of firewood!! rather in the way you use push sticks. It not only saves your fingers it also can be very precise - you can slide the axe down the hold-down piece to hit the target exactly. Essential if you want small riven pegs and pins, or just to keep all your fingers.
I'm amazed at how many people don't seem to know this very simple trick.

A froe is handy of you are splitting bigger stuff single handed. Better still is to have an assistant, using the hold-down stick trick described above. One holds the target still, safely, with a stick, the other swings the axe. At half time swap ends.

 

[Jorny]

For splitting small stuff you can also use a splitting knife.

Or just get a ordinary Mora, like this one with a slightly thicker blade, put the edge against the kindling to hold it in place and whack it with a piece of firewood on the back to split the kindling.

 

[Adam W.]

My reason for think a froe might be more suitable is that with an axe or hatchet you have to hold the smaller pieces and strike and withdraw hand at the same time, smaller sticks or narrow wedges wont stand up on their own.

I made one of these from a battered billhook. It has a thick back, which can be struck with a wooden maul or mallet.

 

[graduate_owner]

We have always used a bill hook for splitting kindling. Works fine.

K

 

[Tris]

Mike Abbot and son making rake tines, but shows the principle well

 

[Jacob]

Mike Abbot and son making rake tines, but shows the principle well
View attachment 144946

Wooden mallet doesn't look like a good idea to me! Needs a lump hammer, or even a big lump of stone

 

[Tris]

I've used a lump hammer on mine a couple of times but it quickly started to 'mushroom' on the back. It's only a cheap one so not surprising, just use a beetle similar to the one in the pic now, 5 minutes to make and free

 

[--Tom--]

Beetles are a nice way to use a knotty bit that won’t split well

 

[D_W]

Wooden mallet doesn't look like a good idea to me! Needs a lump hammer, or even a big lump of stone

Wood is commonly used. Not a neat mallet, but something bodgered quickly.

 

[Adam W.]

Wooden mallet doesn't look like a good idea to me! Needs a lump hammer, or even a big lump of stone

Nah!

You'll pbugger the back up that way.

 

[heimlaga]

The normal way of splitting kindling is to split the log standing on end until the chunks you make are too thin to stand safely on end. Then split them further in the horisontal position. Usually while holding the end nearer to you with one hand and starting splits in the end away forom you.
In the old days when sawblades were too expensive for crosscutting firewood and firewood logs therefore had ragged axe cut ends all firewood was split in the horisontal position usually on a block which had a sort of saddle shape so the log wouldn't roll.

Holding the log upright with one had while swinging the axe with the other is a well known and fairly efficient way of amputating fingers. It is not unheard that fiddlers or guitarists or accordionists with an obvious lack of talent are encouraged to split logs that way. As a humorous way of telling them to stop playing that thing and do something they have more talent for.