Proposed workshop build

[Jones]

Motar is mainly used to keep the bricks apart not glue them together. A NHL 3.5 mix will be a direct replacement for a cement mix and is specified quite often nowadays for face work . You can get it in builders merchants easily or get bagged premix online. It's best to mix dry then add water to give a slightly dry mix ,rest for 5 mins then mix again to give the right consistency . No plasticizer or additives. It's stickier than cement so you may have to scrape the back of the mixer halfway through.

 

[DomP]

How critical are engineering bricks in this situation?

 

[Jones]

Engineering bricks have better strength and can be used where they will permanently wet. If neither of those apply then normal bricks should be ok.

 

[DomP]

As it's on a concrete pad 50mm above ground surely I can use a more decorative brick then?

 

[Jones]

Yes

 

[DomP]

My brick plinth is nearly completed I just need to decide on door opening size, current thinking is a pair of 3' doors which I will make.

Bit of opinion and advice needed here though, do I mount my frames directly onto the plinth with dpc or mount a soleplate first? Secondly should I add a 50mm thermal block to the inside and lose space meaning I can set my frame back from the front of the brick or can I just use the single course thickness?

 

[Spectric]

Use a soleplate, the last one I did I painted the bottom face with bitumen paint. A soleplate will spread out the load, can be fixed first and then easier to fix frames to it afterwards. As for doors, only you know what needs to be moved into and out of your workshop and the important size is the actual opening size and not the doors.

 

[pauljhaigh58]

If you were going to build internal block walls you should have built in ties across outside wall to thermal block if you haven’t it’s too late, build stud wall and fill with rock wool

 

[pip1954]

It's got plus and against for a sole plate every time you go in the doors you will have to step over the extra height of the sole plate and door frame,yes it has plus to be able to fix frame down especially as you are talking double doors are you raising the floor inside if not I would think about door height,good luck

 

[TRITON]

I can use a more decorative brick then?

Maybe not quite on topic, but brick related.

How's this for decorative brickwork.

 

[pauljhaigh58]

Flemish bond I believe

 

[spanner48]

Flemish Garden Wall Bond. Soldier Bond for the door's lintel. With some appliqué "Brick Slips" cut in, to simulate the Soldier Bond falling away..

Cheap and 'Tap-á-L'Oeuil'. I would check there's adequate reinforcement behind the Soldier Bond to support the lintel.

 

[DomP]

I'm drawing up my plans for studwork, I notice some peoples builds are spacing their studs at 610 centres for the internal 11mm osb cladding, is this not a bit far leaving the osb unsupported over 610mm? Limits fixing points for shelving too.

 

[Spectric]

For the extra cost it is worth spacing at 400mm

 

[DomP]

For the extra cost it is worth spacing at 400mm

At that spacing I think I could omit noggins too

 

[highwood122]

If you were going to build internal block walls you should have built in ties across outside wall to thermal block if you haven’t it’s too late, build stud wall and fill with rock wool

you can use screw in ties in some cases

 

[DomP]

I've spent some time this weekend designing the framework and roof on autocad with my son, I want a storage space in the roof either at one end or a smaller space at either end with centre access. It's left me in a quandary about roofing material, I like the idea of insulated profiled panels but these are not only expensive but won't require the roof structure needed to put in rafter ties to build my storage space on. Other options are corrugated sheets to fit in with other buildings in the area or standard profiled sheet and insulate from underneath before covering in osb.

What thoughts does everyone have on this? I'll get my plans up on here when they are a bit more complete.

Dom

 

[duke]

Maybe not quite on topic, but brick related.

How's this for decorative brickwork.
View attachment 183911

Ha, I like this.

 

[HOJ]

Don’t wish to sound critical

I'll get my plans up on here when they are a bit more complete

You’re 2 years in, and only now drafting up a plan! I'm really surprised you haven’t detailed all the elements already.

peoples builds are spacing their studs at 610 centres for the internal 11mm osb cladding, is this not a bit far leaving the osb unsupported over 610mm? Limits fixing points for shelving too.

The simple solution would be using a thicker sheet, if you intend hanging shelves etc.

Just for some clarity: principally the OSB makes up the structural element to help resist racking, TF makers use 9mm which is smaller @ 1197 x 2397mm and is designed to have a margin gap around it to allow for expansion, but, it is fitted to the outside (separate debate there!!)

Using this then sets the stud gauge to 600mm, and coordinates with plasterboard, which is 1200 x 2400mm.

In your case closing the stud spacing to 400mm centers is an option but then as you are using an imperial board you lose the gauge on the end stud for the board overlap, you would have to re gauge to 406.7mm centers to make it work, or just cut all the boards to suit, but then add in the fitting of doors and windows and along with the cripple studs to the openings, you could end with studs closer together, and very little room for insulation and for little gain.

It's left me in a quandary about roofing material

The main factor to account for with regards the roof material choice, is its pitch angle and then how it needs to be fixed (some fixing spacing's are as close as 450mm and can be up to 1200mm) which, will then dictate, along with allowing for the roof load, as in its dead weight, then factor in the snow load, and also the possible effect of wind if in an exposed area, the design of the roof trusses.

 

[DomP]

Here are my drawings, not yet finalised, any thoughts?