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And it’s not just the thing at the bottom of the window, the bit above is a little contentious as well.
I always spell it Lintle, but there’s also Lintel, and rather strangely Lintol.
 
Metal to wood wood to metal.
Re-vamped work shop doors. To my work shop I have two large metal framed doors which had very large glass panes both of which were brokenwhen we moved in. The cost of repair or replacement was not an option as personal circumstances would not allow it. The front doors' glass was being held in place with a stick on plastic sheet. I decided to use this to my advantage and glue with contact adhesive two plyboard sheets directly to the glass. On the exterior sealed the edges with silicone sealer. After that two coats of 3V3 extreme weather white wood paint.
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Then it was on to the back door. The glass had to be completely removed then the back metal trim taken out and the door closure plate ground and cut off. In doing this allowed to fit three long and two short pine boards in place, this time using a bostic instant glue. Once set in place added trim top and bottom and strengthening strips across the short pine planks which got removed after I'd fitted the window.
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for the window I used the end part of a shower screen that had fallen of. Traced the out line of the glass and rebated to just under flush so as it would fit flush when fited with silicone. Using a third piece of ply fitted that to the back got the missus to hold it in place whilst I drew the out line of the window. Whilst fitting the third piece of ply notice some erroded parts. So gave all these areas a good rubbing down then filled up all the edges and bad spots with soudal silirub NE05 which I brought from a local decorators shop. Never used it before but they said it would be perfect for what I intended. So 8 euros lighter back home filled up the cracks glued in the window and fitted the ply again with contact adhesive and clear silicone around the window area. Whist that was setting 24hrs, made four pieces of external trim. Top and bottom from what was left over from the pine boards and after rummaging around found an old terrace plank long enough for the sides and made two bits out of that. I angled to 40 degrees the inside edges of the trim to allow for water run off. Fitting the trim to overlap the old window edge then screwing into the pine boards forming a solid lock for the replaced window. Then lastly finished off with the 3V3 paint.
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so the total cost for myself 3 ply boards at 18 euros and 1 tube of filler 8 euros gand total of 62 euros every thing else I souced from old project leftovers.
 
Just turned the 2nd leg the pattern is different again edit
Just turned the last two legs
 

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A little birthday gift for another mate of mine who happens to be an enthusiastic watch collector.
I've had this bit of Spalted Beech stored away for quite a few years and made a mitered box from it.....hopefully he will like it.

Not quite a perfect book match, but not far off...👍

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Spent a few hours plaque making for my sons partner, she decorates them & sells them on Etsy. The 6mm thick rectangular ones are simply cut with the tracksaw & chopsaw then the edges eased with a round over router bit
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The fancy shaped plaques & hearts are routed in 4mm MDF with a guide bearing cutter on a cnc’ed template like this
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I simply move the clamp along as I progress, a little bit of hand work with a chisel forms a nice sharp v in the top of the heart

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some nice work there peeps.
I spent a few hours turning square, ish blanks into cylinders ready to make two more sets of legs.. Have 6
the first one i hit a knot a chunk flew across the garage and hit the other wall. The piece that came out was big enough that I could no longer make a cylinder of the right size. The last blank, well it was ok when i cut it to length but when I had it centred on the lathe I notice a crack/shake that ran the length. So forget turning that
 
reading the post by super tom
I have a band saw but the blade seems to wander on anything over 10 mm not long serviced/repaired and new blade
It had sat doing nothing for over three years. I had it serviced and worn/ damaged parts replaced inc a new blade
User error or do I need yet another new blade.
 
Hi All I am looking to add some new live centres.
looking at the Axminster web site There is some newer ones to my old 60deg
should I stay with known older type or go for the newer ones
what if any are pro/cons
Thanks
 
An urgent handrail on a kitewinder staircase, for an elderly relative struggling with mobility. I wasn't sure I'd be able to pull off a continuous rail around the corner but it turned out OK, after a little bit of headscratching and befuddlement.

PS: the dark handrail on the LH of the topflight is nothing to do with me. 60cm above nosing height FFS, possibly intended for children!?
 

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I'm stripping the lath and plaster out of an upstairs room* so I can insulate. After one small wall of the dormer I had 4 bags of plaster at about 40kg each, three flights of stairs and a rapidly approaching 50 year old body told me I needed a different solution to carrying the estimated 40 more bags of spoil!

Queue the opportunity to build something. Here's my solution, a couple of 4.2m long 120mmx45mm** long beams, a 25mm galvanized running bar, and couple of shoes in the floor that the contraption slides into so that it can be installed and removed easily, and the window popped back in place. I was just tying the bags on the rope but this was slow and a bit sketchy, so I now have a 1/2 tonne building bag and carabiner.

Load testing was conducted at ground level with a much lower angle and me standing on the end bouncing, 110kg caused some deflection (100mm) but nothing too worrysome and no scary noises. The bar is installed perpendicular to the beams and they are them splayed into the shoes, this puts bunch of force on the bar and stops it moving, but it will slip out easily when not splayed out so the whole contraption can be stored out the way whilst working.

The friction of the running bar works well to limit the effort to lower a sack, and makes it more controllable. I would not want to lift anything on it as with a fully loaded bag it takes all my strength to move it upwards even a fraction.

Fitz

* had to take two showers as it is filthy work!
** is that 6"x2" in old money with some shrinkflation, or is a 5"x2" a thing now?

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Kewl Fitzroy...somewhere I have a print of my similar solution: two floor joists, two sheets of ply, direct chute from first floor window to skip!
Yes, lathe and plaster are ghastly to 'pull'. Only exceeded by Bristol builders deciding early in the last century to swop coal dust from incoming ships' hold floors for sand to build walls with. G.D.bloody awful stuff to renovate....I've been told 'soft sand' was difficult to get in Brizzel? Weston must have had "the wrong kind of sand"?
 
Kewl Fitzroy...somewhere I have a print of my similar solution: two floor joists, two sheets of ply, direct chute from first floor window to skip!
Yes, lathe and plaster are ghastly to 'pull'. Only exceeded by Bristol builders deciding early in the last century to swop coal dust from incoming ships' hold floors for sand to build walls with. G.D.bloody awful stuff to renovate....I've been told 'soft sand' was difficult to get in Brizzel? Weston must have had "the wrong kind of sand"?
I did likewise - straight out over the small front garden into a skip. The only job I did that approached the same amount of dust was knocking a window opening through a 30" random stone wall. West facing, in West Cornwall. Never again.
 
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