Piano stool renovation advice

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markwithey

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4 May 2008
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Swansea
Hi guys

Firstly, thanks for the warm welcome to the site. I only wish i'd found it BEFORE I went headlong into a piano restoration involving large amounts of wood (and leaded varnish), without knowing anything about woodwork.

I've two questions and I hope it's ok with the moderators if I post them both on the General section.

1. I've taken the piano stool apart and sanded down the stock to the bare wood. Is it best to prime, paint and varnish everything before putting it back together, or would you advise leaving that until the whole thing is complete? My thought was to prime and spraypaint the bits and then varnish after but your advice would be very welcome.

2. I've had to cut through the mortise and tenon joints to remove the legs. What's the best way of rejoining these without screws - I don't want to use them on any visible parts?

Many thanks for your time,

Mark
 
One advantage to finishing the timber before re-assembling is that you should find it easier to wipe off any glue as the cramps go on. If you've ever tried to finish something once it's been assembled, you'll know how much of a PITA it can be trying to neatly cover all the little nooks and crannies too. So, yes, I agree with your thoughts - leave the final coat only until after it's been assembled.

There's another discussion in this forum on the subject of loose tenons, which may be of interest you in answer to your second question. Another option would be to temporarily clamp it all together and used Miller Dowels, I guess, drilling right through both parts (leg and rail). Don't know how thick your legs are though?
 
Great - that was what I was thinking - so any spaces can be sorted afterwards.

I even took photos beforehand JUST in case I forgot how it fitted back together. Which I have done, and now I can't see the camera so i'll start with all the legs pointing down and work up!!!

Do you think it would be possible to put it together without drilling or making joints? Don't get me wrong, i'd love to learn and give it a go but i want to reduce the chances of me messing up as much as possible!

Thanks loads for your help,

Mark
 
One thing to bear in mind when doing any repair of existing glued joints is that when they break there is glue left on both surfaces. Most glues are designed to work on clean wood and need the porous surface to work well. Reassemble of joints effectively sealed by old glue are not likely to hold well so try and clean the old glue off.

Similarly make sure non of your finish gets on areas that will become glued.

Good Luck

Bob
 
Oh right, so definitely NO finish at all on the bits to be joined? I was wondering bout that one. I've sanded the glue off - goodness knows what was in 75 year old glue!!

Thanks a lot,

Mark
 
In those days most big towns would have had an abattoir and associated with that would have been a glue factory.
We used to use hide glue at school (1960s) when I were a lad!

Bob
 
markwithey":36vl1m7d said:
Do you think it would be possible to put it together without drilling or making joints?
Mark

It is possible to put the stool together without drilling or making joints but there would be no strength in the joints at all. It would start "racking" fairly quickly and the joints would fail soon afterwards.
 
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