Open Frame Bookcase

[catface]

Hello miles_hot,
More pictures of the gluepress as asked for :

The box steel support frame is finished red oxide in this picture. Here the frame holds one clamp rail at the top\rear of the clamps. Back then I had only 4 clamps & 1 rail.

with wood in place you can see theres about 4 inches behind the wood and between the clamps to get your hand and cleaning materials in, when cleaning up any glue from rear of panels.

However, what you cannot clean up is the area covered by the clamp arms ( the long bits of the clamps) – each is about 40mm wide, and once the panel is in the press any run out of glue can’t be got at . Hence the masking tape.

Each clamp secures to the guide rail by a plastic t slot connector visible at the rear/top of each clamp (see picture 2 above)
When not in use the clamps all go up the end of a rail :

My steel frame would be too heavy to hinge out of the way (you’d need enough headroom too). But lots of people mount the Woodrat onto a removeable bracket – an easier way to go ? Hope this helps.

Ps. Pic of marking out parts for glue up onto the tape :

I like Woodbloke’s idea of chisel marking parts with roman numerals, where glue won’t obscure it. Thanks for that.

Regards, Catface.[/img]

 

[Ironballs]

I think I'm with Ed here, cherry in particular can have some beautiful sapwood, I have board here that has some stunning grain on top and some equally stunning, but different, sapwood grain underneath. I would be happy to have either side as the feature. On the other hand something like oak has very poor sapwood in general, soft and featureless and I would avoid it like the plague.

I do buy more rough planks than planed boards and it's fair to say that sapwood in general is where the beetles head, though they seem quite happy to eat any piece of cherry as it's a lot softer. Rob has there been any testing of whether boring insects eat their way through a finish to get to the wood? Will a layer of shellac or oil put them off - I imagine Rustins Plastic Coat certainly would!

 

[TheTiddles]

I'm slightly torn on the design, it's going to need a lot of dusting but the structural aesthetic is really nice, maybe a light wood like ash with contrasting dark lines would look good with that sort of structure. Pointless bickering on sapwood aside :lol: , the word that springs to mind with that piece is... crisp. I hope that one day I have the skill to make something that is that well finished, maybe it's just a patience thing but I haven't tried long enough to find out...

Can we have some more workshop pictures please?

Aidan

 

[miles_hot]

Hello miles_hot,
More pictures of the gluepress as asked for :

My steel frame would be too heavy to hinge out of the way (you’d need enough headroom too). But lots of people mount the Woodrat onto a removeable bracket – an easier way to go ? Hope this helps.

Regards, Catface.[/img]

Thanks for that - on the hinging bit it was more about getting to the rear surface of the boards rather than moving it out of the way. With the sort of arrangement that you've got going I would mount the Rat above and maybe slightly out so that any board hanging down couldn't foul on the frame.

 

[woodbloke]

I keep on banging on about using sapwood and as I said it's not something that I would ever knowingly use on a really good piece. The reason is that sap will be attacked by wood borers under the right conditions. These are in environments that are cool and possibly with more moisture in the air ie, properties without central heating. In modern houses with decent heating (which most of us have these days) the attack of the bugs ain't going to happen. However, all of us aspire (well I do anyway) to build heirloom type stuff that will hopefully outlast me and several generations down the line. The question is, how can you predict the environment where your furniture will be used in 2109 or even 2209? Simple answer, of course, is that you can't so why take the risk when it's just as easy to use the timber without the sap and give your piece a fighting chance of staying together...which is as I said earlier is the reason that the great makers years ago wouldn't have dreamed of using it their pieces - Rob

Rob

I have to admit to being somewhat surprised by your thoughts on sapwood and your verging on vitriolic blog entry on the matter.

http://woodbloker.blogspot.com/2009/01/lesson.html

Do you genuinely think that our homes are overrun with beetles looking for sapwood to attack? I think its also a bit strong to suggest that makers who incorporate sapwood into projects are in some way misguided or incompetent.

Each to their own view, but I don't personally see it as the massive issue that its being made out to be.

Cheers, Ed

Ed - I just don't like sapwood and if you'd care to read carefully what I said I mentioned in bold that wood pests would only attack sapwood under the right conditions...in properties where no central heating exists and where the MC is higher than we have come to expect these days in our centrally heated homes. I also mentioned that sap is valued in two woods that I could think of (there are probably many others but oak ain't one of them)

As to what goes into the Blog, it's just the way I feel about that particular aspect of woodworking and no personal affront is or was intended to anyone reading it. You're right tho'...it's not a massive issue but it's one where I feel that a little more thought on the part of the maker could make an impressive job even better...just an opinion. Nice to know you're a reader though :lol:
Edit - clearly that post might have caused some personal offence which was never intended...it's now gorn - Rob

 

[PaulO]

As to what goes into the Blog, it's just the way I feel about that particular aspect of woodworking and no personal affront is or was intended to anyone reading it. Rob

When can we expect a vitriolic attack on crosshead screws? :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

As to what goes into the Blog, it's just the way I feel about that particular aspect of woodworking and no personal affront is or was intended to anyone reading it. Rob

When can we expect a vitriolic attack on crosshead screws? :wink:

Paul - I like crosshead screws, who doesn't? I think most people use them all the time 'cept when a slotted screw is needed (brass in a solid drawn brass butt hinge) but as I understand it, Brusso hinges are supplied with crosshead screws - Rob