Officialy on the slope!!

[Bodrighy]

My lathe arrived today and I really glad that I didn't get anything bigger than the Perform!!! I had to strip it down in order to get it up to the attic.
It's now standing in all it's yellow glory shouting "Go on then, turn something!" at me. I can't get over how quiet and smooth it is. OK to you guys it's the lower end of the market but after a black and Decker Drill attachment clamped onto a workmate it's the height of luxury.

Watch this space for pictures of toothpicks and abstract art. :lol:

I have just been told to ask if anyone wants a second hand wife who will shortly be up for grabs. (She's been reading all your comments about obsession over my shoulder.)

Now let's see how much chucks are going for on Ebay........

 

[PowerTool]

Congratulations =D> - steep slope,but great fun sliding down it :wink:

Hope you enjoy it,and looking forward to some pictures.

Andrew (still very happy with his Perform CCBL)

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Now let's see how much chucks are going for on Ebay........

If you can't find anything on Ebay I'm sure you can spend your swmbo's hair do money HERE \/ :-#

 

[RobertMP]

I bought the Axminster deal. Chuck and bunch of jaws along with a case. Had fun setting it up today. Messing about with a digital vernier the chuck seems to run within 0.1 mm of true which I can't see being a problem. Bought a drill chuck for the tailstock too and that seems quite good for not much money.

Still not bought any chisels. Think I may end up getting a few from Rutlands. I suppose not having them stops me 'wasting' time on the lathe when I should be doing other things

 

[treefella83]

happy days mate happy days. :lol: :lol:
am i right in saying that you will be woodturning in the attic

 

[Bodrighy]

I live in an old school house on Exmoor. The attic was completely floored out with decent access when we moved in and there is enough headroom for me (I'm 6'5") in the centre. The lathe is by a big dormer window but facing so that anything airborne should go past it not into it. Sounds worse than it is. Ironically we have a big stone outhouse but it's across the lane with no electricity.
Pete

 

[Anonymous]

Just a thought Pete... have you been able to set the lathe at a comfortable height?
Get the wife to measure from the floor to your elbow and add a couple of inches... or 50mm if you prefer :lol:

That should give you a good height (to the headstock spindle) ... and there's a bonus...

...wife feels useful and involved :wink:

 

[Bodrighy]

Just a thought Pete... have you been able to set the lathe at a comfortable height?
Get the wife to measure from the floor to your elbow and add a couple of inches... or 50mm if you prefer :lol:

That should give you a good height (to the headstock spindle) ... and there's a bonus...

...wife feels useful and involved :wink:

At my height this is something I am always aware of. I read through previous posts and the elbow height + a couple of inches (don't understand foreign) seem to be the thing. At the moment I am using the stand provided and the height could do with going up about 3" or so so I will get some boarding and use that to lift it. Don't fancy packing under legs, too easy to fall off it. (the lathe, not me).

Any other tips will always be appreciated. Just got to get my gouges etc sharpened. inherited them and need to replace at some point but will suffice for the immediate future.

Pete

 

[Anonymous]

Have you thought about bolting/screwing short sections of 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 to the bottom section of the legs... from memory they're 'L' section pressed steel...

If you go to any of the shows see if Reg Slack is demoing on the Ashley Iles stand. Ask him to show you how he sharpens his gouges etc. 5mins and you'll have all you need to know :wink:

 

[Taffy Turner]

Welcome to the club Pete.

Yet another turner on the slope - it must be the hatching season for woodturners - they are popping up like Mayflies! (Noticed I avoided the obvious metaphor of coming out of the woodwork). :roll:

All the best, and have fun!

Regards

Gary

 

[CHJ]

Any other tips will always be appreciated. Just got to get my gouges etc sharpened. inherited them and need to replace at some point but will suffice for the immediate future.

Pete

To raise mine I fitted a 'bench top' (piece of melamine chip board) to the legs and raise the lathe on wooden blocks each end, something like 130 X 130 X 90mm total. I used 8mm studding and loose nuts/washers to bolt through.

This acts as a tool/ bits and pieces catchment area and allows hand room under the bead for chippings clearance.

 

[Bodrighy]

To raise mine I fitted a 'bench top' (piece of melamine chip board) to the legs and raise the lathe on wooden blocks each end, something like 130 X 130 X 90mm total. I used 8mm studding and loose nuts/washers to bolt through.

This acts as a tool/ bits and pieces catchment area and allows hand room under the bead for chippings clearance.

That sounds like a good practical idea. It should also help strengthen the legs which are a little on the flimsy side. Alignment of holes was a bit out and some imagination had to be used to put it together. I'll look out for some appropriate wood / worktop.

Thanks
Pete

 

[CHJ]

That sounds like a good practical idea. It should also help strengthen the legs which are a little on the flimsy side. Alignment of holes was a bit out and some imagination had to be used to put it together. I'll look out for some appropriate wood / worktop.

Thanks
Pete

A shelf fitted to the bottom rails if not stiffening the stand, seems to dampen any vibrations. You will need to dismantle 3 sides of the bottom rails again if you do it in one piece due to the frame slope.

 

[treefella83]

sounds like your going have a good source of natural light and a good view.
and i bet that your out house will soon be stuffed with timber.

 

[Bodrighy]

1. When turning something between centres I am finding that the spindle isn't always gripped tightly by the 4 pronged centre that came with the machine. I tried tightening the tailstock but it seems there is some sort of torque mechanism that stops it being tightened too far. I read somewhere that I should bang the centre into the wood and then insert into the morse hole Is this right?

2. We have a range that is permanently on. I have turned a blank of apple that was only cut a couple of weeks ago and is really wet. Great to turn but soaking. I wondered if leaving it on or even in the range would dry it out too quickly. It's a nice little piece of wood that I have earmarked for a box when I get my chuck and would hate to split it. The general opinion in previous postings has been to wrap in paper for a few weeks.

Pete

 

[PowerTool]

When doing work between centres,I mark the centre,then place the drive centre point on the centre mark and whack it (I use a mallet,NOT a hammer - don't want to chip it or mushroom the end) until there is a mark where the teeth on the drive go.Then mount it on the headstock,bring the tailstock up,clamp the tailstock and tighten up to ensure the drive prongs engage.Then slacken the tailstock slightly so it is not under tension.

Yes,I think the range would dry it too quickly and split it.Rough turning and leaving it to dry for a few weeks is a better option,particularly for boxes ; I find even using seasoned timber,they can distort and go slightly oval,so rough turning should release some of the stresses and help prevent this.

Andrew

 

[treefella83]

if the timber is not true at each end like logs or branch wood it is easier to use a two pronged drive rather than a four prong drive because a two prong drive will settle better on the uneven end of the branch and reduce a source of vibration and better grip on the branch if placed correctly.
a rule of the thumb when air drying wood is one inch of thickness of timber per year to dry but even kiln dried timber will still warp or distort when turning as the stress is releaved.
i still have trouble sometimes when turning lidded boxes because the lid will move and become too tight or not even fit onto the box and just become a small fancy bowl.
the best lidded boxes ive made have come from old scraps of wood that have been left in the corner of the shed for years.
dont try and dry your timber too fast unless in a kiln as this will get right on your nerves splits checks and popping timber, ive tried it and got too many pen blanks to count.
keep stuffing that out house full off timber .
patience is a virtue

 

[CHJ]

One method that works
Boiling the piece for 30mins to an hour and wraping the same way also gives good results.
See Here

Also note the comments in the Last line of this post
"Incidentally the timber for them was harvested on Sep 13 (at the same time as this lot) and finished turned on Oct 01.
"

 

[treefella83]

fair play to ya chas i see that there is just as much an art to prepaparing timber as there is to turning it .
im going to try and boil some of the burr oak as it is still cracking no matter how i seal it.
cheeers.

 

[Blister]

Dont dry it to quick or it may split :shock:

You can keep it in dry warm conditions , best to seal the ends with paint

also weigh the wood and put the weight on it , weigh it every month or so to see how much weight it has lost ( water ) , when it stops loosing weight its about dry

:lol: