Nicholson work bench - replacement top options?

[Wilko54321]

Hi, I’m looking to refurb the old Nicholson bench that came with our house. Stored in an unheated shed. In Barking, so materials need to be delivered as I don’t have car.

The old one is not level due to wear. I want a flatter surface to work on for glue ups etc. Bench is 1500mm long by 640mm wide, top is ~42mm thick front/back and ~22mm in the middle. Frame is old actual sized 2x4. Top pieces are nailed down. I’m looking to add a stretcher at the back, braces under the ends and new vice jaws.

I’ve got a track saw, decent range of power and hand tools etc., but I don’t have large shop stuff like a planer/table saw. I had thought of stretcher brackets underneath, coach screws or fixed down with recessed washer head screws.

Any other replacement work surface suggestions or fixing options?

Option 1 - Single piece hardwood plywood top with 2-3 layers of 18mm glued together and edged

Option 2 - glue together 44 x44mm redwood to only replace the worn front piece and plane to size

 

[HOJ]

I would have a rethink about a "refurb", time to make a new one, its clearly had a hard life, and owes you nothing, you will spend far more time, effort and money in making it usable.

There is a saying I would use, but I'm too polite to express it fully on here, so I'll use a 3 letter acronym: P. A. T.

 

[Wilko54321]

I would have a rethink about a "refurb", time to make a new one, its clearly had a hard life, and owes you nothing, you will spend far more time, effort and money in making it usable.

There is a saying I would use, but I'm too polite to express it fully on here, so I'll use a 3 letter acronym: P. A. T.

Yeah, I did think about that actually.

Silks purse and sow’s ear should pass any mod checks for politeness

I will have a think, the Paul Sellers or Rob Cosman style bench builds seemed fun and not impossible to pull off.

We might be moving within a couple of years, so could make sense to just take the very deep vice and adjustable planing stop for the next build as they are better than modern stuff.

 

[Jacob]

Nothing particularly "Nicholson" about it, it's just a variety of the standard bench found everywhere. Nicholson's book just happens to illustrate his version of a very common and basic bench design.
If the legs and the aprons add up to a sturdy and rigid bench I'd replace the two top bench beams with something about the same size (2"x10" perhaps?) in redwood, or a hardwood if you want to spend a bit. Beech is popular. Replace the well with a bit of ply, the extra depth is useful.
Seller's bench is just ringing the changes on the same design. He only has one "beam" which is fine for one person. The back apron needs to be fairly sturdy and level with the beam.
Cosman bench is over fussy, I wouldn't bother.
I always think of the work surfaces as the "beam" plus back apron, or beams if there are two - the most basic bench of all being the Japanese planing beam, which consist of just one heavy joist.
PS there's a fashion for one piece heavyweight tops with no well. I'd avoid that altogether as they are difficult to make and keep flat and the well is really useful.

 

[Wilko54321]

Nothing particularly "Nicholson" about it, it's just a variety of the standard bench found everywhere. Nicholson's book just happens to illustrate his version of a very common and basic bench design.
If the legs and the aprons add up to a sturdy and rigid bench I'd replace the two top bench beams with something about the same size (2"x10" perhaps?) in redwood, or a hardwood if you want to spend a bit. Beech is popular. Replace the well with a bit of ply, the extra depth is useful.
Seller's bench is just ringing the changes on the same design. He only has one "beam" which is fine for one person. The back apron needs to be fairly sturdy and level with the beam.
Cosman bench is over fussy, I wouldn't bother.
I always think of the work surfaces as the "beam" plus back apron, or beams if there are two - the most basic bench of all being the Japanese planing beam, which consist of just one heavy joist.
PS there's a fashion for one piece heavyweight tops with no well. I'd avoid that altogether as they are difficult to make and keep flat and the well is really useful.

Thanks for the context and suggestions. The legs and aprons are solid, the bench isn’t moving anywhere as on two sides it’s against the shed framing so stays in place nicely.

Definitely some options to consider!

 

[Cabinetman]

If you are considering that you only need two years out of it I think all I would do is turn the top three bits over, but also swap the front and back planks. Jobs a goodun.
Ian

 

[Orraloon]

If you are considering that you only need two years out of it I think all I would do is turn the top three bits over, but also swap the front and back planks. Jobs a goodun.
Ian

I agree. It was common practice to replace or rotate boards to refresh the top. I guess thats one of the reasons the top was nailed down. Makes it an easier job.
The vice would be worth keeping. Been a few threads on here on those.
Regards
John

 

[Wilko54321]

Just an update, I had a look underneath and the old boards have been flipped already

I decided to move some things around to get more free space on the top and store the pillar drill underneath. I will be adding dog holes/clamp kit to a scrap wood and ply mini bench/work step I made as it’s flat and just the right size to put in the bench occasionally.

So new bench likely to wait a while for the new house, thanks for all the suggestions and feedback!

 

[Cabinetman]

Just an update, I had a look underneath and the old boards have been flipped already

I decided to move some things around to get more free space on the top and store the pillar drill underneath. I will be adding dog holes/clamp kit to a scrap wood and ply mini bench/work step I made as it’s flat and just the right size to put in the bench occasionally.

So new bench likely to wait a while for the new house, thanks for all the suggestions and feedback!

Hahaha, well it’s a bit like Grandads step then, except that was turned 3ways!

 

[imageel]

I was going to add, at my prior house where I had a large garden and purpose-built 4 x 5 workshop I also had a smaller lean-to shed similar to what you have described and within it was a similar bench, sturdy base and so-so planked top and it too was 'built-in' to the structure of the shed.
Prior to moving last year I had a clear up and dismantled this likely pre-war construction and it was a friggin nightmare - the thing was riddled with half sunk large and inevitably rusty nails and to say it was Jerry-built would be an understatement..
Dismantling it was hard work what with the huge rusty and protruding nails and due to the fact that it was illogically constructed patently by someone who whilst inventive had little idea how bracing should work. As I gradually worked my way toward the rear wall of the shed - itself originally built into the original party fence - long since detached by myself when I had to replace the entire ~120m after a storm, it became increasingly difficult to wreck as large sections of the remaining structure twisted and bent, flapping about such that even with a large wrecking bar it was exceedingly hard work!
That said I think your decision to leave your existing as-is or perhaps just tweak the top as being a wise choice - you just don't know what you will find as you start removing bits....
Mine even to the last remaining wall which turned out to be relatively rigid was as I found out only so because a tall double-doored cupboard was itself afixed to both floor and walls and was in fact holding the remaining structure together..!

 

[Wilko54321]

I was going to add, at my prior house where I had a large garden and purpose-built 4 x 5 workshop I also had a smaller lean-to shed similar to what you have described and within it was a similar bench, sturdy base and so-so planked top and it too was 'built-in' to the structure of the shed.
Prior to moving last year I had a clear up and dismantled this likely pre-war construction and it was a friggin nightmare - the thing was riddled with half sunk large and inevitably rusty nails and to say it was Jerry-built would be an understatement..
Dismantling it was hard work what with the huge rusty and protruding nails and due to the fact that it was illogically constructed patently by someone who whilst inventive had little idea how bracing should work. As I gradually worked my way toward the rear wall of the shed - itself originally built into the original party fence - long since detached by myself when I had to replace the entire ~120m after a storm, it became increasingly difficult to wreck as large sections of the remaining structure twisted and bent, flapping about such that even with a large wrecking bar it was exceedingly hard work!
That said I think your decision to leave your existing as-is or perhaps just tweak the top as being a wise choice - you just don't know what you will find as you start removing bits....
Mine even to the last remaining wall which turned out to be relatively rigid was as I found out only so because a tall double-doored cupboard was itself afixed to both floor and walls and was in fact holding the remaining structure together..!

That sounds a bit of a nightmare! I swear that is why people use reciprocating saw nowadays, just so much of an effort saver.

To be fair to the person who built mine, the half laps on the trestles and the apron are all cut cleanly and use those diagonal cuts to tighten things up.

I just wish that the people who used it had not viewed the top as so disposable. No way would I even think about planing it, grit and hidden pins would make the blade look like a saw in no time

 

[okeydokey]

I was mid typing a reply then looked back at what Cabinetman has suggested and stopped as that seems to do the job nicely and keeps the appearance (if that matters) of the bench. If the well is not needed simply raise the height (after turning that board over) with ply glued/nailed in place (other methods of fixing are available )
Unless of course your potential projects need a consistent very flat surface then still turn the existing boards over to get a flat surface and put a sheet of 24mm ply on top.