Engraved Brass Plaques

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RussellT

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I thought I would post this, because I tried it and I thought it was a really useful technique with results way better than I expected.

I retrieved some old household scales from my mother in law's shed and I thought I would restore them. Cleaning the rust off and painting was quite straightforward but the dial, which was painted steel was beyond saving. I decided to make new dial from brass.

I drew a new dial on the computer, and printed it out on an overhead projector transparency.

I bought some "Photosensitive Dry Film for Circuit Production" and attached it to a sheet of brass by putting it through a laminator.

I sandwiched my printout between a sheet of glass and the brass sheet with the photosensitive film and exposed it to UV light. It can be done with sunlight but I found I needed to experiment with exposure times so used some UV diodes.

Then I washed it with a dilute washing soda solution (a couple of teaspoons of washing sodas in 500ml of water) and that removes the unexposed area of the photosensitive film. If it doesn't come off easily then it might have been over exposed (Guess how I know that).

Then I etched it with Ferric Chloride. Other etches are available but Ferric Chloride isn't particularly hazardous unless you're made of metal. I checked it at intervals because if you etch too deep then it will undercut the edges of the photoresist film and it loses definition.

Then I washed it again with a strong solution of washing soda and removed all the film.

I sprayed it with black car paint and then rubbed the paint down with 1200 grit wet and dry and polished it with metal polish leaving the paint in the areas that had been etched.

I cut the sheet to size with shears and filed the edge to the line and drilled and filed the holes.

Hera are some photos, showing the scales as finished and the original dial.



IMG_20250103_110853970.jpgIMG_20250103_110812372.jpgIMG_20250103_120902773.jpg

Russell
 
Hey Russell,
Very nice work, well this bought back some memories I used to do very similar work on clock dials and sundials back in the 80's in fact I still have the dipping tanks down the garden and I used a light box two glass sheets and UV lights on timers.
I went onto engraving dials with pantographs and then moved into CNC. thanks for the memories.
 
Looks good !
It too takes me back to an era when I used to do similar to make PCB's for hobby projects and the like.
I think that it's a challenge to get it right as there are so many variables at play - strength of chemicals, temperature, UV source strength, age of resist medium etc., so practice obviously helps.
However as you have discovered you can get quite pleasing results when you get it right :cool:
One technique I learnt whilst an apprentice at Marconi's was to use dyed anodised aluminium as the base substrate, apply resist and expose to UV through your mask and then wash off with developer and etch in dilute sodium hydroxide - the thin oxidised aluminium is rapidly stripped and it leaves an ideal etched pit that will take suitable enamel paints - it enables you to create very professional looking fascia panels for projects
 
Thank you all for your interest.

I like the idea of etching aluminium. Brass is annoyingly expensive.

Phill, imageel, did you use dry film for the photoresist or did you have to spray or dip the boards?

Russell
 
Thank you all for your interest.

I like the idea of etching aluminium. Brass is annoyingly expensive.

Phill, imageel, did you use dry film for the photoresist or did you have to spray or dip the boards?

Russell
I used spray photo-resist, am sure it's available at one of the online stores...
Anodised ally works really well especially if it has been coloured since the dye is bonded to the oxide layer as part of the post-anodising process and it more than raw ally is ripped off quite quickly, even though ally itself is pretty reactive to sodium hydroxide..
As a schoolboy experiment I used to make up a strong caustic soda solution in a jam jar and drop a scrunched up ball of ally kitchen foil into it - within seconds the ball is dancing ferociously as it reacts - obv best done outside and with a bucket of water to hand, the reaction releases hydrogen..!
 
Thanks. I thought you probably had to coat the boards. I think the dry film is a relatively recent development and I think it does make it easier and reduces the need for equipment.

Imageel, and of course you will have had to make the hydrogen go pop.

Russell
 
That really is wild - you really have done an incredible job. You should be very very proud of that. Amazing.
 
I can never quite get over just how many talented people feature on this site... It really is astounding.

The knowledge and skill shown is breathtaking....
 
Thanks. I thought you probably had to coat the boards. I think the dry film is a relatively recent development and I think it does make it easier and reduces the need for equipment.

Imageel, and of course you will have had to make the hydrogen go pop.

Russell
Dry film photoresist for PCB work was around in the 1980's for etching PCBs (I used to do the old 'leave it in the sunlight' to begin with when making PCBs before graduating to a (quite expensive at the time) UV light box)

There was a mob around back then in Australia that you could get precoated aluminium sheets for making front panels with- just print, expose and etch to get a 'pro' looking front panel for your homemade electronics projects, many of the EA and ETI magazine kits had them available at the time
 
Thank you everyone.

Dabop, I've made a few circuit boards and until now I've used toner transfer/press and peel paper which is OK and doesn't require special equipment. Having tried dry film for the brass dial I will definitely use it for any future PCBs. I don't know why I didn't use this when I did the toner transfer method because the dry film is easier and doesn't cost any more than the press and peel paper. That's why I thought dry film might not have been available.

I'm fairly sure that for the PCBs I've made sunlight would have been fine. Most of the difficulties I had were related to the size of the dial - things like excluding air bubbles from under the film and uneven exposure so that I couldn't clean the unexposed areas off in some parts of the dial. With a PCB I would also have been happy to fix any problem areas with a dab of paint.

As I said at the beginning I was very pleased with the results and I thought the result was amazing for the simplicity of the technique.

Thanks everyone for your interest.

Russell
 
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