New kitchen project

[MooreToolsPlease]

Hi Sean,
I thought that post waould be very confusing, asking myself now why i wrote it instead of doing a couple of sketches!
Anyways, here they are.
In this joint the right hand board that will receive the male joint needs to be cut from underneath. This is laid ontop of the female joint.
The female joint is cut first so that where the walls may be out of square this can be compensated for with the male joint.

Mark the top board directly from the board underneath.
when you come to route the joint, mark back 8.5mm from the lines and thats where the inside of your guide pin will be.

This is how the joint will look after cutting, and finally here it is in place.

I hope the images make it clearer the method I was trying to tell.[/img]

 

[sean_in_limerick]

WOW! Amazing the difference a picture makes! I will do it this way, does it matter how far out of square the walls are? Will the correction effect the fit of the joint?

Just out of curiosity, what did you use for the drawing ? Sketchup?

Thanks for both you time and expertise,

Sean

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Sean

Have a look here at Ray's site.

It's a great explanation.

Cheers
Neil

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

It was a quick drawing done on sketchup. Fantastic programme to use.
Looking at the instructions, its a maximum of 3degrees.
I have never gone to any length to measure the angle walls are out, just use this method as it is fool proof!

 

[sean_in_limerick]

thanks everyone - am i correct in saying that you always plunge into the laminate surface? I would have thought this, but the trend instructions say that a female cut is done laminate down, and a male cut laminate up?

Sean

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

It depends on the orientation of the boards.
I always start at the mitred part, and make sure the router is spinning into the laminate. so the piecethat you want to keep is on the right hand side of the cutter.

 

[sean_in_limerick]

Hi Matt,
At the risk of sounding dense...
There's a mitre?



Sean

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

well the joint is commonly known as a masons mitre,
the short angled part is at 45 degrees.

 

[sean_in_limerick]

thanks Matt, Googled mason's mitre - makes sense, the mitre is the postformed edge where the two pieces meet.

Sorry to drag this on just a couple more questions.

If i cut the female piece first, which seems to be the conventional way of doing it, does it matter which way i have the laminate (on top or underneath), as long as for the male piece i reverse it?

If using the method described in these posts where i put the jointed female piece on top of the male piece and mark the curve - as a pencil mark is required it would be better to be writing on the underside, so that the pencil mark can be seen easily - this means having the laminate on top for the female cut.

I hope i have this right now! Thanks everyone for your patience.

Sean

 

[sean_in_limerick]

Hi everyone,
Happy new year! The project continues, it's largely complete should be done in the next couple of weeks and i will post photos. Sounds like a bizarre question but the final thing i need to do is put a shelf up and i after building an entire kitchen i am struggling to find the best way to do it. The shelf will be about 1.7m long and made from 50mm oak. It will be fixed into a concrete-block wall. i am going to make some brackets out of oak, laminating a couple of pieces together to make nice wide brackets with curves using the bandsaw. How are these typically used to fix to the wall and shelf? The shelf will be heavy so i need to take care of this. I have considered using normal steel L-brackets and hiding these with the brackets that i make, but i think the brackets themselves should be used - is this recommended? All ideas welcome, thanks for reading.

Sean

 

[Chris Knight]

Sean,
If the shelf really is to be 50mm thick(??), you might consider gluing some 12mm threaded rod into the wall and drilling holes in the shelf to mate. four or five of these should support a pretty good load.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Another way would be to use threaded rod with Rawlbolts. You should be able to drill into the concrete OK with an SDS drill. Slide the brackets over the rod and fix with a washer and nut, then fit a decorative plug to hide the fitting. I've fitted heavy beams to walls this way in the past and it's been successful.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Oryxdesign]

Another way would be to use threaded rod with Rawlbolts. You should be able to drill into the concrete OK with an SDS drill. Slide the brackets over the rod and fix with a washer and nut, then fit a decorative plug to hide the fitting. I've fitted heavy beams to walls this way in the past and it's been successful.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

There is a bracket available from Hafele part number 283.33.910 which is designed for hidden shelves but this would be ideal for you.

 

[sean_in_limerick]

that's great, thanks for the info - can anyone order from this company or do you have to be trade?

 

[tim]

that's great, thanks for the info - can anyone order from this company or do you have to be trade?

Technically you have to be trade but a letterhead ie your name and address on a piece of paper will get you an online account. You may need to exaggerate slightly your role ie property developer.

Cheers

Tim