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got hold of some laminated kitchen doors and tried engraving a logo , ran the cut twice to get rid of fuzzies, then infilled with green tinted varnish, have a stack of these doors, so there are a few interesting ideas in my head
 

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Had a go at vcarving my logo and doing an epoxy inlay.

Need to find a better method of either doing the inlays so there's less clean up or a better way of removing the over spill, of which there was a lot.

Used card scraper to try and remove most it.
PXL_20231023_153646720.jpg
 
Had a go at vcarving my logo and doing an epoxy inlay.

Need to find a better method of either doing the inlays so there's less clean up or a better way of removing the over spill, of which there was a lot.

Used card scraper to try and remove most it.
I've just done a simple door number sign - used hot glue around the numbers and will be sanding this off in the drum sander. The down side is the dye i used in the epoxy (black) seems to have weeped into the grain and appears on the top and bottom edges. Pics when i get in the workshop next.
 
Need to find a better method of either doing the inlays so there's less clean up or a better way of removing the over spill, of which there was a lot.

Firstly, I think the final result looks fantastic, very clean look to it. Secondly, and I say this with zero experience of carving with a machine and very little experience of epoxy, could you not just pour the epoxy into a syringe and then precision apply it to where it's needed? I imagine it would reduce waste and overspill dramatically.
 
Firstly, I think the final result looks fantastic, very clean look to it. Secondly, and I say this with zero experience of carving with a machine and very little experience of epoxy, could you not just pour the epoxy into a syringe and then precision apply it to where it's needed? I imagine it would reduce waste and overspill dramatically.
A syringe is definitely a possibility, doubt I've got a steady enough hand to prevent any over spill but will be a lot cleaner than my method of smearing it until it fills the gaps ha.

I have some film that's designed for CNC machining, can't for the life of me remember the name, think it begins with O. It's adhesive backed and you apply it before cutting. Wonder if this will be enough to allow me to wipe off any excess epoxy.

Might give painting a try too, saw someone mention if you use thick milk paint you don't have to seal the wood before hand to prevent seepage.
 
A syringe is definitely a possibility, doubt I've got a steady enough hand to prevent any over spill but will be a lot cleaner than my method of smearing it until it fills the gaps ha.

I have some film that's designed for CNC machining, can't for the life of me remember the name, think it begins with O. It's adhesive backed and you apply it before cutting. Wonder if this will be enough to allow me to wipe off any excess epoxy.

Might give painting a try too, saw someone mention if you use thick milk paint you don't have to seal the wood before hand to prevent seepage.
I should have mentioned i use a syringe too. That combined with the hot glue minimised overspill, but didnt help the seepage.

This also reminds me i used the last syringe i had, so off to amazon/ebay for more.
 
I've just done a simple door number sign - used hot glue around the numbers and will be sanding this off in the drum sander. The down side is the dye i used in the epoxy (black) seems to have weeped into the grain and appears on the top and bottom edges. Pics when i get in the workshop next.
you need to seal the wood first, either use a clear epoxy or sanding sealer /shellac, stops the bleeding.
 
Had a go at vcarving my logo and doing an epoxy inlay.

Need to find a better method of either doing the inlays so there's less clean up or a better way of removing the over spill, of which there was a lot.

Used card scraper to try and remove most it.
View attachment 168504
For cleaning up the carving you can do a last pass in conventional instead of climb cut V carve normally does this automatically on lettering but sometimes doesn`t on other designs but it can be added manually.
The other trick is to clear coat the whole thing with varnish or sanding sealer before doing the epoxy infill, this prevents it sucking along the pores which it tends to do more in certain woods and also provides a layer to flatten it back to, you can put it back in the machine and just take off 0.25 mm off with a surfacing bit as an easy way to flatten it.

Ollie
 
How do you keep your purple heart so purple?
I turned a few pieces recently and, although they started a nice purple colour, they were rather underwhelming afterwards.
Is there a secret to keeping the purpleness please?
I think it was just built. So freshly cut and bright purple. If you keep it in a dark, safe, it will stay purple, much, much longer. But then you don't get to see it.
 
I think it was just built. So freshly cut and bright purple. If you keep it in a dark, safe, it will stay purple, much, much longer. But then you don't get to see it.

Hi Lefley,
It was a lovely deep purple until I cut it.
I have since learned that exposure to sunlight restores the colour although after prolonged exposure, it will dull again.
I have more to try and this time will expose it to light before I seal, lacquer and polish it.
 
Thin Strip Jig. Not my design. This fits my bandsaw and Kity Bestcombi by changing the T-Slot nuts. I had to print my own T-Nuts for the Bestcombi because they're a peculiar size. If you search places like Thangs you'll find there are some more sophisticated jigs that do the same thing but with digital readouts. Thanks to Tiger_Dusty for this one at Thingyverse.

20231102_092040.jpg


20231102_091824.jpg
 
Set of templates for the little travel bass I am going to build (laser cutting):
20231101_220752.jpg

And a little wall mounted saddle to put my combination squares on, turned out to be too flimsy for the bigger squares, so I am using one for my little 4" double square, and have beefed up the design:
Screenshot 2023-11-02 105823.png

Also did a little test to cut foam, to create a business case for a laser cutter at work :D
20231101_222555.jpg
 
New laser day today woooo, so spent some time doing test cuts to figure out the best kerf setting.

Then I realised Boxes.py has a french cleat setting so cut out a small tray to test it.
Pretty chuffed with how it came out, going to create some bigger and varied ones tomorrow I think.
PXL_20231102_191013963.jpgPXL_20231102_191002811.jpg
 
If you got it cutting like that, in one day, you did pretty good. I found setting up mine, and especially finding settings, pretty frustrating. 3d printers are a lot easier by comparison, weirdly enough.
 

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