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Wanted to try my hand at chip carving, first step was to transfer the template onto the wood.

Quite a few different techniques for this but I couldn't resist using my laser, source image wasn't the best as I had to scan it from a book, could have spent more time tweaking the trace settings in lightburn but figured this would be good enough for a start.

First attempt I forgot to scale the image up, second attempt was still a bit small but workable.
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How do you keep your purple heart so purple?
I turned a few pieces recently and, although they started a nice purple colour, they were rather underwhelming afterwards.
Is there a secret to keeping the purpleness please?
I make purpleheart walking sticks. I'm always a bit gutted after sanding and the colour is just awful drab and pale, no vibrancy at all. I've learned that if you leave it in full sunlight that it will pop something crazy in just a few hours. Certainly 24 hours is enough for it to reach full brightness. After that, I've used various finishes, but nothing to intentionally inhibit UV, and they're still bright purple nearly 2 years later. When/if they do fade, then a resand/sun/finish will have them looking as good as new in no time.
 
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A very amateurish and possibly over-engineered dust hood. The extractor hood fitted to my Jet thicknesser is for a regular shop-vac hose fitting. I wanted to have a go at designing a new one for my 63mm hose and connectors. I had to print it in two parts, left and right in a vertical position then glued them together. I didn't trust the strength of the opening to hold the extraction hose so I wrapped it with high-temperature tape (the kind used for wrapping cables in cars). I used this because I knew I would be giving the whole thing a coat of resin. After all that, I forgot to include the four screw holes to attach it which was no big deal. I held the original hood up to it and marked the hole positions before drilling them. I then wanted to strengthen the 63mm hole further so I printed a collar. In the next pen/resin pour session, I used the dregs from the bottom of the mixing cup to brush a coat over the whole thing. Then, if that wasn't enough, I sprayed it black like the original and added a rubber seal to the front edge. It's not pretty and I'm sure I will be able to improve the design as my 3D skills get better but I think I'll leave it be for a while.

Hood Left Side 5 v4.jpg
 
Hi All,

My other half bought me some miniature back to the future cars for my man cave. I decided to make a stand to display them.
Uses a mixture of 3D printing and Laser etching.
Not as complex as some of the lovely work on here but I thought I would show it all the same.
Regards
GM
 

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Well it had to happen at some point - I got some spaghetti from the X1C. To be honest it was my fault. You can probably see the previous print marks were still there and I'd forgotten to clean it and add fresh glue. Lesson learned.
hadtohappen.jpg


Since then I've printed a few things - let me know if anyone wants the files.

First up a couple of square holders. Slightly different as one is for my 2 combi squares (rear one) and the other for 2 engineer squares.

square holders.jpg


Then i printed a couple of pencil holders, with space for sharpener and eraser, plus i made one of the slots wide enough to hold my marking knife. One either end of the workshop. First thing i've printed with supports - worked out well.

pencil holder.jpg


Then last up was a bracket to hold my calipers - this was a thingyverse download - again works well and very pleased with it.

caliper1.jpg


caliper 2.jpg


Made a bit of free space on the workshop walls and i'm also keeping the pencils in one place and not having to look for them all the time.
 
Last winter I bought a diesel heater and housed it outside. This year I've brought it indoors but it's right next to where I do my turning. So I started modding it to cut down on large dust and shavings entering the inlets.
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Then printed an angled holder with cover for the controller.
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A wall bracket for the 12V transformer complete with USB charger for my power-pack which I use for my heated gilet.
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I finished my Chemo in February so I don't know how much I'll need the heater anymore but it's portable so I can store it away when not in use.
 
My brother in law visited this weekend. He has a Triumph Scrambler 1200 which has a badly positioned catalytic converter that burns your knee. Turns out there is a 3D printed cover for it to stop the problem. I printed one out for him. It came out pretty good but I forgot to take a picture. I’ll ask for a picture of it installed and add it later.
 
I got a hand me down iPad from my wife to replace my 10 year old one. It doesn’t fit the old case of course no used the case to prop it up on my desk. I decided I needed something to stand it up.

10 minutes in Fusion and I had a laser cut template. Swapped the print head out for the laser in my 3D printer and cut this out from 3mm ply.

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I'm new to 3D printing, having just got a Bambu Lab P1S last week and I'm quite impressed with how simple it seems compared to what my friend has shown me in the past, he was very early in the home 3D printing scene and the constant tinkering put me off getting involved. This is my first effort at designing something in Fusion 360 and printing it. It's a spring loaded dispenser/magazine for my 50mm sanding discs. Was getting sick and tired of having an elastic band (not) hold them all together so I made this instead. Has a follower to keep the discs presented without falling into the mechanism and a bayonet fitting cap via 4 lugs. My photography skills need quite a bit of work, and the material isn't brilliant for showing it but the grit is embossed on the cap for quick identification.
disc mag.jpgdisc mag 360.jpg
 
This is my second and hopefully improved version of a printed mould to make silicone moulds for pen blanks 53mm brass inserts. My original moulds were for 18mm blanks as are the new ones but the walls were too thick making it difficult to de-mould.
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I also included four grooves which when reversed after moulding will make air-escape channels, I hope, to allow the resin to sink to sink more effectively, past the obstacles (Alder seeds in this case) and to fill from the bottom up.

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This is my second and hopefully improved version of a printed mould to make silicone moulds for pen blanks 53mm brass inserts. My original moulds were for 18mm blanks as are the new ones but the walls were too thick making it difficult to de-mould.View attachment 165712
I also included four grooves which when reversed after moulding will make air-escape channels, I hope, to allow the resin to sink to sink more effectively, past the obstacles (Alder seeds in this case) and to fill from the bottom up.

View attachment 165713
Im not clear how this works. Is the printed part for making moulds for making the blanks or do the blanks come straight from this printed part.
 
Im not clear how this works. Is the printed part for making moulds for making the blanks or do the blanks come straight from this printed part.
The first bit. It's for making the silicone moulds. I break and dispose of the printed part leaving me with the silicone moulds to use multiple times.
 
A couple of lattice bowls.
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First test piece, 200mm dia, 30 mm high, from 2mm plywood.

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Second one. From 6mm mdf. 340mm dia x 80mm high.
Falcon 2 22w, 280mm_min at 100% power, 32 mins to cut.
For scale here is both together
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