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How do you keep your purple heart so purple?
I turned a few pieces recently and, although they started a nice purple colour, they were rather underwhelming afterwards.
Is there a secret to keeping the purpleness please?
I didn't do anything special think I got lucky maybe. Used Odies oil as a finish dunno if that helps.

I've heard tips of leaving the purple heart out in the sun to bring back the colour or even going as far as baking it in the oven.
 
I didn't do anything special think I got lucky maybe. Used Odies oil as a finish dunno if that helps.

I've heard tips of leaving the purple heart out in the sun to bring back the colour or even going as far as baking it in the oven.
I know that the sunlight method works but the oven method is new to me. I'll try it one day.
 
Been trying some hand cut joinery lately so decided to print some dovetail guides.

First one is a 1:6 which I highlighted the markings with a posca pen, then I realised I had a multi colour printer so for the 1:8 I used white filament for the icons. Was it worth the extra printing time, probably not but was cool none the less.

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They look good @supertom44 . I’ve tried a few dt guides and the katz-moses one (similar to these) is the one that worked for me. One of the first things i made in woodworking was Paul Sellers dt marking gauge. Used it for a few years, think it may be time for a 3d printed version :)
 
not seeing much here from lasers, so will add my attempts... one of the learning moments on my journey with wood is learning how to use my skills and interests to get the outcome I want - and while I understand the folks who believe that there is no value in having to use a power tool as it is not sufficiently hand made, I have started to realise that using jigs / tools / computers etc. plays to my strength, I am not as dextrous as some, but I am good with computers, so a laser works well for me - there is still plenty of hand fettling etc. going into it and I put in my creativity, so am pleased with the outcome even if a microchip was used in the making...

Penguin now complete - teddy bear, just cut out and now needs gluing / polishing / etc.

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not seeing much here from lasers, so will add my attempts... one of the learning moments on my journey with wood is learning how to use my skills and interests to get the outcome I want - and while I understand the folks who believe that there is no value in having to use a power tool as it is not sufficiently hand made, I have started to realise that using jigs / tools / computers etc. plays to my strength, I am not as dextrous as some, but I am good with computers, so a laser works well for me - there is still plenty of hand fettling etc. going into it and I put in my creativity, so am pleased with the outcome even if a microchip was used in the making...

Penguin now complete - teddy bear, just cut out and now needs gluing / polishing / etc.

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I love the penguin, would you mind sharing some details about material thickness, laser wattage and speeds.
I've only really cut plywood on mine, not tried any hardwoods yet.
 
I love the penguin, would you mind sharing some details about material thickness, laser wattage and speeds.
I've only really cut plywood on mine, not tried any hardwoods yet.
happy to - I use an xTool D1 Pro 20w (xTool D1 Pro Desktop Laser Engraver Cutting Machine)
The jigsaws are 6mm hardwood (can be bought online) - it will cut 10mm but settings would have to be adjusted...
Walnut for the penguin / cherry for the teddy bear - I have a whole stack of 3mm and 6mm boards...
I make them about 140mm wide (to fit the board) and around 210mm in height - which gets two on in just about the max space the laser can do. One side cuts the outline (for rounded corners) and the jigsaw out from the centre - the other cuts a solid board to give the backing board - which I then glue onto the front... I then sand the edges to remove the burn and also give a smooth finish so that it looks more like one block of wood...

Settings - you can adjust power level / speed / number of cuts, so this is one option and for example, decreasing the number of cuts might mean going slower - ideally you want faster if possible as the laser is in one place for less time so in theory you get less burning on the edges...

two settings which both work:
- 100% power / 900 speed / 3 cuts
- 100% power / 540 speed / 2 cuts
Am still playing to get optimum settings - I test on circles as I have found that curves are not quite as efficient so if the settings are borderline the bits that don't break out are always on bends - with a lot of fiddly bits I might play safe, but the balance is that very fine bits will end up being turned to charcoal by the cuts either side - so it is experimental...
 
sorting out the workshop, a set of organised slots for pen blanks - the pieces click together, but are then glued and pin nailed.
The names of the woods are on a friction fit piece which slots in from the front to allow them to be changed. These are my standard woods so quite a few blanks of each, but soe of the more exotics have fewer so I will next look to build one with several layers - this one takes 2 x 2 x 12 pieces (two in length, two in width, 12 high), but for the exotics I normally only have 8-16 pieces around, so 4 high will suffice... so should be able to build 3 layers in the same space...

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sorting out the workshop, a set of organised slots for pen blanks - the pieces click together, but are then glued and pin nailed.
The names of the woods are on a friction fit piece which slots in from the front to allow them to be changed. These are my standard woods so quite a few blanks of each, but soe of the more exotics have fewer so I will next look to build one with several layers - this one takes 2 x 2 x 12 pieces (two in length, two in width, 12 high), but for the exotics I normally only have 8-16 pieces around, so 4 high will suffice... so should be able to build 3 layers in the same space...

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I love the laser cutter for creating quick storage solutions, the name plates are a nice touch with how you've incorporated them into the design.

The last photo makes it looks like a lumber yard for lego figures ha.
 
Well I got around tuit this morning to print the dovetail guide mentioned above.
this is the wooden version I made about 5 years ago, after watching the Paul Sellers video on it.
wood DT guide.jpg


A quick draw in Fusion to replicate it, and then off to the Garage to print it. First print I did seemed to be fine, but when i took it off the build plate, it was clearly warped along what was the bottom edge. I wasn't sure if this was a bed adhesion problem, or whether the temp in the garage (16 ish) was the issue. Any way it pretty much junked the guide.
Did a bit of research on what may have caused it. Switched the garage heating on to a nice and toasty 23, then used a brim around the print. That seems to have done the trick. Here is the original and the new.
2 dt guide.jpg
Works perfectly well. I might even get my finger out and make a box from it.
 
I'm not sure if I'm going to get lynched for sharing something that isn't wood, but I'm quite proud of this bit of leatherwork that I completed yesterday. It's an "emergency money" keyring. I bought the template from Etsy for a reasonable price (it was part of a collection of templates) and laser cut some scrap veg tan leather. I decided I want to make it as nice as possible, so I spent a small fortune on dyes, isopropyl alcohol, thread etc and set about learning to dye leather, which worked out rather well if I say so myself. The brown strap unclips so that you can unthread it from the blue section and slide money in the top

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I'm not sure if I'm going to get lynched for sharing something that isn't wood, but I'm quite proud of this bit of leatherwork that I completed yesterday. It's an "emergency money" keyring. I bought the template from Etsy for a reasonable price (it was part of a collection of templates) and laser cut some scrap veg tan leather. I decided I want to make it as nice as possible, so I spent a small fortune on dyes, isopropyl alcohol, thread etc and set about learning to dye leather, which worked out rather well if I say so myself. The brown strap unclips so that you can unthread it from the blue section and slide money in the top

View attachment 163724
Looks great! Did you laser the thread holes too?
 
I'm not sure if I'm going to get lynched for sharing something that isn't wood, but I'm quite proud of this bit of leatherwork that I completed yesterday. It's an "emergency money" keyring. I bought the template from Etsy for a reasonable price (it was part of a collection of templates) and laser cut some scrap veg tan leather. I decided I want to make it as nice as possible, so I spent a small fortune on dyes, isopropyl alcohol, thread etc and set about learning to dye leather, which worked out rather well if I say so myself. The brown strap unclips so that you can unthread it from the blue section and slide money in the top
While ever you are making such beautiful canes Simon, you can post whatever you want where ever you want.

The keyring is a great idea too. I usually leave £20 in my car for when i forget my wallet - I'm getting on a bit now :D
 
Looks great! Did you laser the thread holes too?
Yeah, much easier, although I'm sure using the correct tool results in a better finish.
While ever you are making such beautiful canes Simon, you can post whatever you want where ever you want.

The keyring is a great idea too. I usually leave £20 in my car for when i forget my wallet - I'm getting on a bit now :D
Thanks fezman. I am hoping to be able to combine the two crafts with a new stacked leather walking stick. Now that I know how to dye leather, this one will be colourful, and hopefully impressive. I do need to make sure that I can get the dye to penetrate fully though as the leather discs need shaping after laying up.
 
Printed some magnetic hose connectors for my new dust extractor.

Had a bit of a nightmare with the super glue on the first one but managed to clean it up with a file.

The connection seems solid, can't feel or hear an air leaking between them, but still a bit skeptical.

Haven't had a chance to try it connected to a machine yet, so we'll see how that goes.

Anyone use something similar?

These are the files: Printables

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Printed some magnetic hose connectors for my new dust extractor.

Had a bit of a nightmare with the super glue on the first one but managed to clean it up with a file.

The connection seems solid, can't feel or hear an air leaking between them, but still a bit skeptical.

Haven't had a chance to try it connected to a machine yet, so we'll see how that goes.

Anyone use something similar?

These are the files: Printables

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That looks like a small fortune in magnets, at least here in Italy it would be.
 
Anyone use something similar?
When woodturning I have a temporary hose trailing the floor. In this instance, I could see that having this type of connector would reduce the hose as a tripping hazard because the connection would break apart when kicked. A little like some lanyards when pulled/caught. Something I might consider.
 

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