Kity 636 planer/thicknesser manual & parts list?
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Argus
Established Member
........ the three-post limit also allows you to post pictures, if you can figure out how it's done, so that we can actually see what you mean.
all best
all best
blackrodd
Established Member
Sounds like the wheel is, as you say, missing for the thicknessing bed height,
I've heard of people using a 3/8" drive socket for the spline, and making one up.
And also sounds as if you are missing the guard, there's one on Fleabay at the mo, in yellow, you'll need to extend the yellow bit a couple of inches as it's for a 6" cutterblock, A rare find indeed!
Regards Rodders
I've heard of people using a 3/8" drive socket for the spline, and making one up.
And also sounds as if you are missing the guard, there's one on Fleabay at the mo, in yellow, you'll need to extend the yellow bit a couple of inches as it's for a 6" cutterblock, A rare find indeed!
Regards Rodders
Eric The Viking
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You mention a wheel that des nothing... does it fit on the splined shaft?
I have a smaller Kity, 439, and that handwheel lives on a chain, to stop it getting lost!
NMA will probably sell you one (I expect the shaft is the same on all of them). Might require a second mortgage tho.
You might also try a good motor accessories shop, as that 12-spline shape is used as a head on some automotive bolts, IIRC, so somewhere there will be a 1/2"- or 3/8"-drive socket to fit it. You might even find a normal 12-faceted socket would do it, although it may chew up the shaft over time.
HTH, E.
I have a smaller Kity, 439, and that handwheel lives on a chain, to stop it getting lost!
NMA will probably sell you one (I expect the shaft is the same on all of them). Might require a second mortgage tho.
You might also try a good motor accessories shop, as that 12-spline shape is used as a head on some automotive bolts, IIRC, so somewhere there will be a 1/2"- or 3/8"-drive socket to fit it. You might even find a normal 12-faceted socket would do it, although it may chew up the shaft over time.
HTH, E.
It doesnt fit on the splined shaft, it seems sealed into a blank socket on the casing...I'll try to take some pics and post them.....it seems a strange set up I have to say....but that could be cos of my inexperience.....
Argus
Established Member
There are two tables which are aligned for planing, separated by the cutter block in the middle. (The thicknesssing action is completely different).
Viewing from the side facing where the plug and switch should be; the wood is fed across the tables from right to left.
The left side is the out-feed table, the right side is the in-feed. There should be a knob about 50 or 60 mm in diameter in the centre of the end of the in-feed table. This is the adjustment for that table. It increases or decreases the height. Clock-wise to raise (decrease) the cut, counter clockwise to lower (increase) the cut.
One thing that you may not be aware of is the limitations this machine has for working without adequate chip clearance. You will find that the throat will choke in a few minutes with chips. A powered chip remover is essential.
All best
Viewing from the side facing where the plug and switch should be; the wood is fed across the tables from right to left.
The left side is the out-feed table, the right side is the in-feed. There should be a knob about 50 or 60 mm in diameter in the centre of the end of the in-feed table. This is the adjustment for that table. It increases or decreases the height. Clock-wise to raise (decrease) the cut, counter clockwise to lower (increase) the cut.
One thing that you may not be aware of is the limitations this machine has for working without adequate chip clearance. You will find that the throat will choke in a few minutes with chips. A powered chip remover is essential.
All best
Eric The Viking
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Probably. But it's not dust but substantial chips that will be 'extracted'. I have a 4" hose going to a 2HP dual-bag (top+bottom) extractor, similar to this one:
It often clogs. I find the trick is to keep the hose run as straight and horizontal as possible, and avoid vertical sections (I can't avoid the last bit into the fan, obviously). You'll need DX, or you'll have to stop planing often to clear out the thicknesser bed when it fills up.
Thicknessing probably does need an extractor. I'm not sure about the 636, but the 439 outlet is oval, so it's already reduced in cross-section to start with. I wouldn't omit the deflector on safety grounds. It won't be that different with the bigger machine - the amount of chips you make depends on the stock obviously, and I'd guess you'll only occasionally use the full width.
It often clogs. I find the trick is to keep the hose run as straight and horizontal as possible, and avoid vertical sections (I can't avoid the last bit into the fan, obviously). You'll need DX, or you'll have to stop planing often to clear out the thicknesser bed when it fills up.
Thicknessing probably does need an extractor. I'm not sure about the 636, but the 439 outlet is oval, so it's already reduced in cross-section to start with. I wouldn't omit the deflector on safety grounds. It won't be that different with the bigger machine - the amount of chips you make depends on the stock obviously, and I'd guess you'll only occasionally use the full width.
blackrodd
Established Member
Although this may not be much use to you, being in french at least there are some pic's for others to have a butchers at.
Who may come along on the same quest!
Regards Rodders
http://efr39.free.fr/Kity/kity%20635/page_01.htm
And the same in pd
http://efr39.free.fr/Kity/kity%20635/kity%20635.pdf
Who may come along on the same quest!
Regards Rodders
http://efr39.free.fr/Kity/kity%20635/page_01.htm
And the same in pd
http://efr39.free.fr/Kity/kity%20635/kity%20635.pdf
Argus
Established Member
Regarding the chip extractor, it's as Eric has said. The type of chip extractor shown is typical of what I meant.
There's a difference between chips and dust. Fortunately, the Kity machine does not produce volumes of dust, though a good mask is essential. The chips are a different matter. I have found that my machine will choke in both configurations, planing and thicknessing, because of the enclosed design of the chip hood that doubles as the cutter safety guard. It has an internal baffle that creates a vortex to transmit the chips onward when used with a powered extractor. Without one it traps all the particles very quickly.
You can have a PDF in English if you PM your e mail.
There's a difference between chips and dust. Fortunately, the Kity machine does not produce volumes of dust, though a good mask is essential. The chips are a different matter. I have found that my machine will choke in both configurations, planing and thicknessing, because of the enclosed design of the chip hood that doubles as the cutter safety guard. It has an internal baffle that creates a vortex to transmit the chips onward when used with a powered extractor. Without one it traps all the particles very quickly.
You can have a PDF in English if you PM your e mail.
Thank you so much!
Manual received and has already proved its worth.
In addition I have found another one for the 636 + a whole lot of other stuff, but in French, which I am slowly translating. The main subject is the complete renovation of a Kity 635 including many issues such the way to realign the drive belt after taking the thing apart to clean - as I am doing. The 636 is closer in structure to the 635 than the 637.
More later when the translation work is complete.
The French source is here if anyone is interested.
http://www.metabricoleur.com/t3211p50-u ... a-kity-635
Manual received and has already proved its worth.
In addition I have found another one for the 636 + a whole lot of other stuff, but in French, which I am slowly translating. The main subject is the complete renovation of a Kity 635 including many issues such the way to realign the drive belt after taking the thing apart to clean - as I am doing. The 636 is closer in structure to the 635 than the 637.
More later when the translation work is complete.
The French source is here if anyone is interested.
http://www.metabricoleur.com/t3211p50-u ... a-kity-635
Argus
Established Member
No problem, Derek.
I don't know what variants affect your machine: mine is about 25 years old and still going.
The manual does not give much detail about repairs - next to nothing - so you'll have to work it out for yourself as you go. Copious notes are the order of the day when taking it to bits.
However, words of warning about disassembling the rise and fall chain/sprocket/threaded-rod assembly below the thicknesser table.
DON'T touch it unless you have to. It is precisely set up.
The number of turns of each of the four threaded rods and the exact location of each locating tooth of the sprocket in relation to the position of the chain is CRITICAL. Get it even one part of a turn wrong and the table will be on a tilt and the boards will come out an uneven thickness.
I don't know the French for "A First-Class B.u.gger" when fixing that part, but there must be a phrase.
.............other than all that it's a great little machine; very rugged.
I don't know what variants affect your machine: mine is about 25 years old and still going.
The manual does not give much detail about repairs - next to nothing - so you'll have to work it out for yourself as you go. Copious notes are the order of the day when taking it to bits.
However, words of warning about disassembling the rise and fall chain/sprocket/threaded-rod assembly below the thicknesser table.
DON'T touch it unless you have to. It is precisely set up.
The number of turns of each of the four threaded rods and the exact location of each locating tooth of the sprocket in relation to the position of the chain is CRITICAL. Get it even one part of a turn wrong and the table will be on a tilt and the boards will come out an uneven thickness.
I don't know the French for "A First-Class B.u.gger" when fixing that part, but there must be a phrase.
.............other than all that it's a great little machine; very rugged.
Arctichawk74
New member
This is not a respond, I am asking for help to find spare parts for a Kitty 636 jointer/ thicknesses.
My name is Johnny I am an American living in Africa. My email address is [email protected]
Thanks for the help
My name is Johnny I am an American living in Africa. My email address is [email protected]
Thanks for the help
user 40185
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Hi all please could anyone send me a copy of the Kitty 636/3636 manual please and does anyone have a broken down Kitty that I could purchase a blade guard and the chip extraction hood please advise thank you
rogxwhit
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Surely the 3636 is a later model with a different design, Dave? Which one have you got?
user 40185
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3636 I thought they may be similar I have purchased and been renovated it for a few weeks now and trying to find as much information as I can plenty of YouTube I think I might have to start doing some fabrication if I can’t find parts thank you for getting back to me
user 40185
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user 40185
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rogxwhit
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Ok, looks like you're well into setting it up. I rebuilt an earlier 636 which has a different thicknesser bed rise / fall mechanism. It looks like the surfacing tables and cutterhead are attached to the frame similarly though, and I found that the holes in the sideframes are slightly oversized to allow a degree of adjustment for all three. So if you have trouble with alignment, that's the key.
Looks like you're missing the swing arm that holds the top guard? If you had the arm it's easy enough to make a guard plate. Otherwise you could think of cannibalising a complete guard from a different make of similar size? It doesn't have to have an arm, either, it could be the post-mounted type ...
Looks like you're missing the swing arm that holds the top guard? If you had the arm it's easy enough to make a guard plate. Otherwise you could think of cannibalising a complete guard from a different make of similar size? It doesn't have to have an arm, either, it could be the post-mounted type ...
user 40185
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Hi there do you have manual for this planner that you could email me I am also looking for the chipper extraction hood as well as the blade guard thank you
