Kity 636 planer/thicknesser manual & parts list?

[Argus]

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Yes, Stan, but you'll need to add a few more posts in order to PM your e mail address to me.

Check what the rules say about PMs.

All best

 

[stanwoods]

Many thanks Argus - I will check the rules

kind regards

Stan Woods

 

[Argus]

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There's a minimum number of posts to qualify for PMs in order to beat spammers.
Looking at the rules, it seems to be 3 posts.

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[Bonsaisid]

I too have the kity 3636 planer thicknesser.
I would love a copy of the manual. can anybody email me or PM?
I think I need to adjust the infeed table for level, but cant find anything to adjust. any ideas?

 

[Argus]

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With 3 posts up, you should be able to PM. If so – send me your e mail privately for a PDF manual (about1 mb).

The in-feed table height to the cutters is adjustable by a knob on the end; the setting is visible on a rudimentary side-scale. It has a pair of angled brackets with some small amount of adjustment on the bolts, but will only move relative to the scale; check the zero mark on the scale with the table height just level with the top of the blades and forget it.

The out feed is locked in use, but can be adjusted up and down by the knurled knob below the left side, beside the swivel hinge. It has an allen key in the centre to lock its position relative to the in-feed table. When it is set and locked, you adjust the cutter height from this.

That’s the easy bit. Assuming that the tables are flat (flat enough for purpose, at least) and level with a straight edge laid across both you should have a working planer, good enough to do what it’s designed to do.

If you really need to check that the tables both aligned in height and are on the same plane, you need to check them with a bevel-box, but don’t expect absolute accuracy in alignment - you may need to do a bit of shimming.......

Hope this helps.

 

[Bonsaisid]

Attached are pics of my dust extractor.

 

[idave]

Hi, Ive just been given a sorry looking 3636 and am after a manual if anyone can help, It seems that the tables are nowhere near parallel with each other and the cutter block so am i right in thinking that the only way to true them up is to try and shim them up ??

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well shim up or file down the round thingies onto which the outfeed table locks down.
Mine was the same. Not awful but not right either. But an hour or so spent with a file got it singing.
S

 

[powertools]

The wife buys both cat litter and rice in plastic containers that look like over size oil cans and they have a screw top about the same size as my dust extractor hose. I cut off the top 1/3rd of the empty ones and use them as hoods for the planer and saw.

 

[Muswell]

Hi, Ive just been given a sorry looking 3636 and am after a manual if anyone can help, It seems that the tables are nowhere near parallel with each other and the cutter block so am i right in thinking that the only way to true them up is to try and shim them up ??

The manual does not give a lot of info. except that the exit table should be 1mm above the body of the block. The only adjustments are the knob on the end of the entry table and the knob on the hinge assembly, which is locked with a screw in the end. I think this adjusts the height of the hinge but I have never had to touch it. Other than that I think you are stuck with shims.

 

[Steve Maskery]

...and the knob on the hinge assembly, which is locked with a screw in the end. I think this adjusts the height of the hinge but I have never had to touch it.

That knob adjusts the height of the outfeed table WRT the cutter block. If the blades are set properly you should never need to adjust it, but it is useful if you have the blades set well WRT each other, but not at quite the right height. If they are not at the right height, you will either a) catch the wood on the outfeed table or b) get snipe as the workpiece falls onto the outfeed table as its leaves the infeed table. In both cases you will also get a curved, rather than a flat planed surface, also I can never work out which case gives a concave cut and which a convex one.
S

 

[Muswell]

So does it lift the table up keeping it parallel to the cutter block? Just curious, I am careful to set the blades accurately.

 

[Steve Maskery]

So does it lift the table up keeping it parallel to the cutter block? Just curious, I am careful to set the blades accurately.

Yes (assuming it is parallel to the cutter block in the first place).
S

 

[Muswell]

Thanks

 

[idave]

So if the out feed table is supposed to be 1mm above the cutter block, that would mean that the knives should be a few thou short of that ?? Is there any reference in the manual for the ideal knife projection from the cutter block as surely this should be the starting point to setting the whole table up?? But this is my first pt and I have not got any experience on these machines !

 

[Muswell]

You rotate the cutter block so a knife is at its highest point. You place a piece of hardwood at each end of the knife and resting on the exit table. You press the knives down with the wood and tighten the screws. The you check by placing a piece of wood with a mark on it on top of the exit table and cutterblock. You rotate the cutterblock half a turn clockwise. The wood should have moved 2 to 3mm,the same at each end. Repeat for the other cutter. It gets quicker with practice. Be careful not to lose tge springs. I can scan the manual and send it when you have 3 posts to your name.

John

 

[idave]

ok get it, but because the outfeed table is adjustable in height with reference to the cutter block, do i need to set it 1mm above the cutter block, then set the knives height as described ?? . The only concern with this procedure is that if the outfeed table is not exactly parallel with the cutter block when setting the knives, the block to knives allignment could be out a little (to match the outfeed table) and therefore cut a slight "wedge" shape on the thicknesser table, my theory is that the only thing that I have on this machine that is straight and round is the cutter block and i must reference every thing off this. maybe my theory is wrong, but just want help and to learn from u guys who have experience in setting these up!.

 

[Muswell]

ok get it, but because the outfeed table is adjustable in height with reference to the cutter block, do i need to set it 1mm above the cutter block, then set the knives height as described ?? .
The only concern with this procedure is that if the outfeed table is not exactly parallel with the cutter block when setting the knives, the block to knives allignment could be out a little (to match the outfeed table) and therefore cut a slight "wedge" shape on the thicknesser table, my theory is that the only thing that I have on this machine that is straight and round is the cutter block and i must reference every thing off this. maybe my theory is wrong, but just want help and to learn from u guys who have experience in setting these up!.

Yes, you set the table 1mm above the block then set the blades.

You are correct, everything is with reference to the cutter block.

 

[idave]

Thanks all, with your help I now feel far more confident in my ability to set the tables and cutter knives up correctly, and I can now start thinking how to;A- make a new infeed height adjuster knob(all the plastic is missing from it), B-weld up or re-manufacture the broken alloy bracket that holds the safety guard to the outfeed table and C-make a new fence as I don't have one. It gives me confidence that there are people out there still using these pt's that are still performing well.

 

[ColeyS1]

Dave, have you got any pictures you can put up of your planer ?