Joints to be used on garden gate?

[Gaz_XB9R]

Quick question.

Need to make garden gate and was going to make it with rails (3) and stiles (2).

M & T joints.

I wanted to fit diagonal braces between rails and wondered how to joint these.

Do I incorporate the diagonal into the M & T joints at the corners?

Tried to draw a pic on sketchup but I'm rubbish.

 

[Scrit]

No need to, just notch-out the cross rails like this - the saw cut is 1/2in (13mm deep) and not less than 2in (50mm) in from the end of the rail to avoid weakening the M&T joint:

Traditionally M&Ts in gates were draw-bored and pinned to ensure the integrity of the gate when the glue failed (which it will, eventually)

Scrit

 

[Gaz_XB9R]

I am to be making the gate from treated softwood.

Will draw boring and pinning be effective in softwood?

I am assuming that I understand draw boring. (Holes for sharpened pin are intentionally misaligned so as to further tighten joint)

Please correct me if I am wrong in my assumptions.

And thanks for the advise on the joint above. Makes things a damn sight easier.

Oh and would PU glue be the glue of choice?

And am I right with the low side of the diagonal brace at the hinge side?

 

[Scrit]

I've seen examples of draw boring done on softwoods, although I've not done it myself (only ever draw bored hardwood gates and the odd table leg or two). I would have thought it would be just as effective because at the end of the day you are applying a belt and braces insurance against glue joint failure. Anyone else care to comment? BTW, your assumptions about how draw boring works are spot on.

As to choice of glue I'd suggest a UF (urea formaldehyde) glue such as Cascamite, Extramite, Vegemite, Marmite or whatever they are calling the stuff these days. UFs will give a stronger glue bond than PVA or PU glues. If you are in an extreme weather environment then you'd need a 2-pack UF/RF such as Aerolite, but it would only be necessary if the gate were to be sited facing into the teeth of a gale in the Western Isles..... (and oops, I've just noticed you live in Scotland )

The lower end of the brace does indeed go at the hinge side.

Scrit

 

[Keith Smith]

I've had a few softwood gates to repair and the pin has usually just pulled straight through the tenon, makes repairing them a pain too :roll:

If you are going to pin them, I would suggest the pin is fitted as close to the shoulder as possible otherwise don't bother just rely on the glue.

Keith

 

[mailee]

I have made a lot of softwood gates in the past and indeed have a lot more to make next month. I usually glue and pin them as has been mentioned close to the shoulder. I also use PU glue and have had no problems with them. I built a five bar ranch style gate in just this way and it lasted for seven years without any maintenance at all! As has been mentioned too the lowest side of the diagonal brace goes to the hinge side. Best of luck with the build. :wink:

 

[Gaz_XB9R]

Thanks again for the advice.

I think I'll go for the draw boring but just use PU glue as I've already got some.

Hope the sunshine holds in Scotland I'm a bit of a fair weather DIYer. If the news is anything to go by extreme weather is a bit further south at the moment. :wink:

 

[White House Workshop]

Last summer I made 2 new gates for our drive from softwood and I used MT joints which were then dowel pinned. Only problem is that one of the gates has warped slightly over the winter and has to have a jockey wheel now, which exacerbates the warp! Annoying...