Is Gorilla woodglue strong enough for this project?

[Victorthesecond]

Hello everyone. Continuing my newly-found woodwork journey, one of our friends asked if I would make her a condiment holder for sauces / vinegars etc. The attached photo shows my efforts - it's clamped for the glue to set, then I'll finish it by sanding and oiling (I have some Osmo oil that I can use)

At the moment, I've only used Gorilla woodglue to fix it all together, thinking that, once the glue is dry, I can use panel pins to secure things. But, I'm unhappy that either a) the pin heads will show or b) if I use a nailpunch, it riskes looking untidy. I could, I think, use a mix of sawdust and glue to fill the small holes and then sand it down, but experiments have either a) split the wood when hammering the pin in and / or b) it looks just a bit messy once the glue - sawdust mix is used.

I don't want to use screws as they can just look a bit bulky sometimes.

Any suggestions? Do you think that the glue on it's own will be strong enough (realistically, the only risk is that the bottom might drop out but I can't really see that happening without some prior warnings!)

As always, thanks for ideas and advice!

Mike

 

[Yojevol]

The glue should be fine on its own.
If you have a few scraps left over make a test piece to satisfy yourself that all is well. Usually, when fully cured the glue will be stronger than the wood.
Brian

 

[graham88]

If you want a bit more peace of mind you could always pin the bottom on to the rest of it. Nobody will be able to see the heads once it's in use.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you use pins or oval nails first give the sharp ends a tap with a hammer to blunt them - they don't tend to split the wood then, they act like a chisel severing fibres rather than a wedge parting them.

 

[worn thumbs]

The only words of caution I would add are that you need to be sure the glue hasn't been exposed to freezing temperatures.My kitchen window-sill provides a home to several glue bottles,tins of water based paint and mastic that all give a warning about needing protection from frost.

 

[Victorthesecond]

Thanks all!

 

[Jameshow]

Nice job!

Keep at it and enjoy!

 

[Cabinetman]

I think a glue like Evostick or Titebond would be better and easier in a situation like this. And yes it will be strong enough without nails.
Another way to stop pins splitting the wood is to snip the head off one ( mind your eyes) then use it as a drill bit to go full depth into both pieces of wood. A most satisfying way to nail things together btw.

 

[Owd Jockey]

I've used Gorilla previously without problems , but now use Titebond III Ultimate.

 

[themack]

I used Gorilla wood glue to glue a workbench top together which had split 3/4 of the way and it holds without any fixings and being fixed to anything. It is still laying flat on another workbench awaiting dog holes. So i would say yes.

 

[recipio]

Well they say nails have no place in fine furniture - not even in a piece of craft work if you ask me. I would use small screws with a 6mm counterbore and wood plugs - or just use 6mm dowels and glue. Man invented joints for a reason.!

 

[sams93]

I have used gorilla woodglue previously without problems, I now use Titebond II mainly but if I saw some gorilla up cheap I would get it and use it.

It is really surprising just how strong glue is, the important thing is to make sure the surfaces are properly prepared i.e there is sufficient surface area, and the joints are reasonably close.

I think for your purposes described glue will be absolutely more than sufficient.

 

[Jameshow]

How about brass screws and making a feature of it?

 

[TRITON]

making a feature of it?

You should only make a feature of horrible mistakes

I tested gorilla glue - the foaming stuff, not the wood version. By gluing together two identical pieces of pine, clamping it up. -should say, glue on one face,water on the other-. Then split it using hammer/chisel.
It split straight down the glue line(Not good) and i could see the actual glue itself was pockmarked- which i think would be from the foaming action.
Based on this is would avoid using the foaming version.

Wood glue, the non foaming should work just like any other form of pva, and give a good strong bond that you wont be able to split in the same way, as in straight down the actual glue line, but rather the timber would split along the path of the grain.

 

[TomGW]

Glue only should be ok but I see no reason to not screw the bottom, as the screws will never be seen. Some form of scratch protectors will be advisable on the base and these can cover the screws.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I tested gorilla glue - the foaming stuff, not the wood version

It would be good if people discussing adhesives would specify in the OP which one they're actually using, not just the make. Gorilla is possibly the worst for this but many manufacturers make numerous different adhesives.

 

[RupertV]

If you use pins or oval nails first give the sharp ends a tap with a hammer to blunt them - they don't tend to split the wood then, they act like a chisel severing fibres rather than a wedge parting them.

I've always tended to nip the ends off panel pins to achieve the blunt end with the side cutter on a pair of pliers as its too easy to bend anything smaller than 11/2 ovals using the hammer method. Anything bigger then yes, the hammer. Have to admit though that a pin gun is my common go to these days and these pins are already blunt.