Inca bandsaw switch problem.

[sunnybob]

The two brown wires are the thermal cutout. The thermal cut out disconnects the power inside the switch and shuts the motor off untill it cools enough and then the thermostat operates again and you can restart.
If the motor was running before the idiots disassembled the switch the thermal cut out is fine. You dont need another motor.

The switch is definitely the problem.
Modifying the wiring for NVR switch is possible, and is actually advisable to meet current safety standards because..... As it is (was) the thermal cutout could kill the motor, and while it was stopped you (or someone else) could start handling the chuck. When the temp cools and the motor restarts all by itself youre in deep deep doo doo. Thats what the NVR switch is for, to stop the whole system untill there is a manual push on the button. but its not simple and not advisable over an internet chat if youre not too sure about it.

Your simplest way out is to find a replacement switch. Somewhere on that switch will be serial numbers cast into the plastic. Do a search for that number alone.
If all else fails, take the switch into an electrical wholesaler and ask them for a replacement. Dont explain everything to them, just hand over the switch and say "got another one? They have all the look up charts and if youre lucky and get a helpful man you should be alright.

 

[flh801978]

Another solution
Remove the motor post it to me
I'll fit a new nvr switch and starter £30 all in guaranteed
Plus post both ways. Maybe £20
Ian

 

[John Brown]

There's an offfer you can't refuse. No electrical pun intended...

 

[Fitzroy]

Roger,

From what I can see this is the circuit that you currently have.

There are a lot of wires just because the terminals are being used in some cases as terminal blocks, ie nothing happens inside the switch housing, and in another case to link in the thermal cutout which happens inside the switch housing.

Explanations
- The brown wires from terminals a and b connect to the thermal cutout sensor, the sensor is connected to the circuit inside the switch housing. Obviously I can't see precisely how so it could be either side of the NVR element of the circuit, or in the circuit feeding either terminals U or V.
- The yellow wire brings a connection from the the motor, the extra winding, to the switch housing. The dark brown (poss black) and blue wires connected to V and W take a current to and from the capacitor (wherever that is located). All terminal W does is provided a point to join the yellow wire and the dark brown wire (poss black).
- Inside the switch housing the pink/red coil of wire is a electro-magnetic coil that is the NVR release part of the current switch, when the switch de-energises this falls open. When the power is back the start switch needs to be pressed to energize the coil and hold the switch in the on position.

If you were to use the NVR I previously linked the circuit would look like below, terminal blocks have replaced terminals B/U, W, and V, the mushroom emergency stop is added into the circuit before the feed to the motor.

Notes:
- The capacitor can be connected to either of the other terminal blocks, swapping terminal blocks swaps the rotational direction of the motor. From the pics you provide i assume connecting it as per my diagram will result in the motor rotating the correct direction.
- The A1 and line notation on the switch denotes that the switch will go open if the voltage in the circuit between 2 and 6 goes to zero.

Regards

Fitz.

 

[flh801978]

Actually after looking at the original diagrams i'm not sure its a single phase motor at all
It may be a 3 phase motor wired star 240v with the cap providing a phantom phase
So in that case its a simple nvr with the "sonde" wired into the low current of the nvr switch

I wouldn't wire the "sonde" cutout in line with the supply unless you are sure its rated for 240v at 3-4 amps

Ian

 

[John Brown]

Actually after looking at the original diagrams i'm not sure its a single phase motor at all
It may be a 3 phase motor wired star 240v with the cap providing a phantom phase
So in that case its a simple nvr with the "sonde" wired into the low current of the nvr switch

I wouldn't wire the "sonde" cutout in line with the supply unless you are sure its rated for 240v at 3-4 amps

Ian

For what it's worth, I agree re. the thermal cutout(sonde). The post I made a while back was also referencing a three phase motor with the cap providing the third phase.
In the OP's shoes, however, I'd still take the offer of £30.00 all done. Especially as he doesn't even have a meter.

 

[Fitzroy]

Good point on the cutout, having it wired into to main circuit would be odd!

F.