How to clean paint off 16thC internal timbers without damage?

[Adam W.]

I've taken it down, cleaned the bricks, repaired or replaced the timber and re-built it.

The last bit left is the black and white bit and I'm leaving that to trundle the timber for the stairs through.

I bought it because it hadn't been touched in any significant way apart from a few internal "improvements", which I have removed.

 

[Adam W.]

You mentioned conservators removing a single layer of paint at a time - what is the methods they use to do that - I would like to have a go at revealing lower paint layers before stripping all the paint from the timbers.

I'll ask on Monday and get back to you.

You could research poultice removal of paint which depends on dwell time. First you'll need to identify the type of paint used before proceeding.

You can read this in the meantime, but it's probably out of date as things have moved on in building conservation since 2000

https://repository.upenn.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1479&context=hp_theses

 

[Valhalla]

On the property

I've taken it down, cleaned the bricks, repaired or replaced the timber and re-built it.

The last bit left is the black and white bit and I'm leaving that to trundle the timber for the stairs through.

I bought it because it hadn't been touched in any significant way apart from a few internal "improvements", which I have removed.

On the point of cleaning bricks - on the house that I'm buying would I be better to remove the paint on the 'rubble' wall supporting the frame and rake out and re-point the joints and leave as bare stone or should I leave as paint (I would prefer natural stone)? I have no idea what type of paint has been used. I suppose it would really depend on the view of the rule makers.....

 

[Adam W.]

I doubt it's more than grade 2 listed, although if you find an original painted interior you'll end up being grade 1 with all the complications that conveys.

You'll be able to remove the paint, re-point and limewash the stonework without any issues if it's grade 2.

But you should already know what the listing is, if you're buying it, surely.

 

[Valhalla]

I doubt it's more than grade 2 listed, although if you find an original painted interior you'll end up being grade 1 with all the complications that conveys.

You'll be able to remove the paint, re-point and limewash the stonework without any issues if it's grade 2.

But you should already know what the listing is, if you're buying it, surely.

Of course - grade 2 listed and not grade 2*

 

[Bristol_Rob]

You could talk to SPAB

https://www.spab.org.uk/
They may be of assistance

 

[woodieallen]

There's an echo in here

 

[woodieallen]

Valhalla...thank you for changing your avatar. Wouldn't it be great if everyone else did ?

 

[johnny]

I intend to get the roof, sole plate and infill panels dealt with first

don't forget to install some wind bracing if needed whilst you have the roof covering off. Inadequate roof bracing and anchoring is often a mortgage lending issue these days

 

[furnace]

It's certainly possible to achieve a very good result if care is taken and the underlying timber is sound. If the timber isn't sound, it's probably worth uncovering anyway.
My place was done 35-odd years ago. Most of the internal beams had been gloss painted (pink, green, white, blue.......) and it did not really appear in agreement with its Grade 2 status. It was stripped with a combination of mediums including copper slag, and the resulting bare timber was treated with beeswax, applied with a very stiff brush. I've done nothing to it since, and it still looks super.
I'll post some pics in a bit.

 

[furnace]

I'll post some pics in a bit.

 

[MikeJhn]

I was much luckier, the beams where just covered over with lath and plaster, taking it off was a very dusty job, but the beans underneath where beautiful, fully arrised with curved stepped finishing details at each end, the section and pitch was much bigger than needed for the span, walls where wattle and daub, the local council preservation officer was an immense help in what, when, how and why, do these officers still exist?

 

[clogs]

I seem to remember a paint stripper that set and could be peeled off after drying/curing….taking all the paint….well at least a few coats…
it is supposed to leave the timber untouched….

i hope u do better than the oak timbers in my old place….
the outer layer was mostly what the bugs didn’t eat and was basically dust….
in the end it was so bad I used a vari speed 4inch grinder as slow as it would go with a cup wire brush….then sanded it all back by hand and a orbital….then there was a paintable wax finish to bring back the colour….they did look really nice….well it helped to sell the place…
mostly talking 30x30cm beams over 300 years old…

 

[Valhalla]

don't forget to install some wind bracing if needed whilst you have the roof covering off. Inadequate roof bracing and anchoring is often a mortgage lending issue these days

I won't have a mortgage, but I'm sure the listed building /conservation/planning officers will have something to say about that when the roof gets stripped

 

[Valhalla]

I seem to remember a paint stripper that set and could be peeled off after drying/curing….taking all the paint….well at least a few coats…
it is supposed to leave the timber untouched….

i hope u do better than the oak timbers in my old place….
the outer layer was mostly what the bugs didn’t eat and was basically dust….
in the end it was so bad I used a vari speed 4inch grinder as slow as it would go with a cup wire brush….then sanded it all back by hand and a orbital….then there was a paintable wax finish to bring back the colour….they did look really nice….well it helped to sell the place…
mostly talking 30x30cm beams over 300 years old…

I hope that it doesn't take me that long - there are lots of timbers and ALL of them are black - may keep some in certain areas - not sure yet as I haven't bought it yet.....

 

[Fergie 307]

It's certainly possible to achieve a very good result if care is taken and the underlying timber is sound. If the timber isn't sound, it's probably worth uncovering anyway.
My place was done 35-odd years ago. Most of the internal beams had been gloss painted (pink, green, white, blue.......) and it did not really appear in agreement with its Grade 2 status. It was stripped with a combination of mediums including copper slag, and the resulting bare timber was treated with beeswax, applied with a very stiff brush. I've done nothing to it since, and it still looks super.
I'll post some pics in a bit.

intrigued by the copper slag, I would regard that as a very aggresive media. Would certainly shift the paint pretty sharpish, but surprised it didn't damage the wood. Like the beeswax idea.

 

[sawdust1]

KLING STRIP used it many times on old beams.

 

[Adam W.]

I hope that it doesn't take me that long - there are lots of timbers and ALL of them are black - may keep some in certain areas - not sure yet as I haven't bought it yet.....

You'll be working on it for years.

 

[johnny]

I won't have a mortgage, but I'm sure the listed building /conservation/planning officers will have something to say about that when the roof gets stripped

I wasn't thinking about your mortgage I was thinking about your safety and the safety of your roof. Eventually you might want to sell and move on and the question of roof bracing is likely to raise its head then for the new buyers. It would be easier to do the work whilst the roof covering was off rather than later. Your decision obviously.

listed Building and Planning officers are not likely to not know much about roof construction & Current Building Regulations .... its not their responsibility or part of their training, its a job for Architects and Building Surveyors to assess

 

[Valhalla]

I wasn't thinking about your mortgage I was thinking about your safety and the safety of your roof. Eventually you might want to sell and move on and the question of roof bracing is likely to raise its head then for the new buyers. It would be easier to do the work whilst the roof covering was off rather than later. Your decision obviously.

listed Building and Planning officers are not likely to not know much about roof construction & Current Building Regulations .... its not their responsibility or part of their training, its a job for Architects and Building Surveyors to assess

I had a level 3 survey done and there was no mention of any bracing required