High Speed Steel in an Old Plane

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Aye, i forgot about the ubiquitous inexpensive wet and dry paper (which is awfully handy, even if it's just to repair bee piss spots on car clearcoat).
 
How polite. the forum changed my statement to water. The appropriate word would be taking the ___ out of. Rhymes with a well known cuterly manufacturer.
 
M4 sharpens easily on a progression of:
* Medium Crystolon
* Fine India
* (cheap) hard arkansas, as in, not a real trans or black stone

You can feel a mild amount of abrasion resistance on the crystolon stone, but not much, and a giant wire edge raises on a full bevel pretty quickly.

My stone is in an oil bath. I'm sure that helps, it's both full of oil and not clogged with any particles.

I use this chisel only for trimming metal and wood flush (on infill planes), so it sees little use, but I'll sharpen it with these from now on.

The microscope shows no funny business at the edge like I saw with washita and A2, and no lack of finish, etc. I'll take pictures later, and then do what I'd do to finish an oiled edge of really tough steel ( loose cuttings from japanese stones - dust - on jasper with WD40).
 
Years ago i found an old Preston spokeshave, the one with the spectacle frame handles. Its cutter was worn to a stub. To get it working again i ground the old edge square & silver soldered a section of HSS parting blade from my lathe tool stock. Re ground it & it works a treat. It is hard to get a decent edge but lasts for ages once its sharp.
 
That's very similar to what I have seen today.
A worn out standard plane blade, had had a piece of mechanical hacksaw blade welded on, to replace the worn away part. Then ground and honed as normal.
Looked usable.

Bod
 
Not a bad blade to set up. A click or two softer than a lot of modern HSS (which was probably intentional to make it sharpenable on natural stones).

Sharpened well on fine india to hard ark (not a good hard ark, but one of the inexpensive ones) and then chase the burr on a charnley (which admittedly has 6500 grit diamond remnants floating in it) and then a quick bare leather strop.

Back flattening on my trusty long glass lap was fairly easy, the iron hasn't been mistreated and was really close to flat. Probably three minutes worth of back flattening work.

I haven't taken fine shavings yet, but the plane is a sort of rough shape (but not bad performing) A13. I intend to make two or a dozen smoothers based on this plane. I'm getting quicker making infills, but they're never fast. I didn't have time to push it further than a few fairly thick test smoother shavings, as I blew a large part of the day making an infill shell to make a skew mouthed infill shooting plane.
 

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