DIY rough sawn to PAR

[O'Chippy]

I have No6 box sash window sills to replaced. Original sills are oak and I'm going to use sapele as the replacements.
I can't find anything locally, or afar, to match the original profile and dimensions so the plan is to purchase rough sawn stock from a local yard and machine myself as required.
However I'm a carpenter and dont have much workshop/joinery machinery.
In theory I believe that I can produce the required profile with a tablesaw and electric plane, the plane has zero clearance on one side so should be able to clean up the bevelled/inclined surfaces fully.
I suppose success will depend on how regular the rough sawn stock is but just wondering if any other member has managed to produce similar profiles with basic tools?

I'm happy to buy a bench top thicknesser if it would help but again I think it may not offer anything extra should the stock dimensions be cocked.

 

[O'Chippy]

BUMP

Anyone able to give me a sanity check on above?
Really don't want to buy a load of sawn timber and then struggle to machine it to a reasonable condition!

 

[opener]

Have you got a local joinery shop who can prepare the cills for you? It’ll cost extra of course but will save a lot of aggro. You’ll get enough of the aggro when fitting the cills to your windows

 

[O'Chippy]

Have you got a local joinery shop who can prepare the cills for you? It’ll cost extra of course but will save a lot of aggro. You’ll get enough of the aggro when fitting the cills to your windows

Ah sure the aggro is what keeps it interesting!
There is a local joinery but I'm trying to figure out/justify having the ability to do basic machining myself.
Plus experience has unfortunately demonstrated that the less things you ask others to do for you the less disappointed you will be.

 

[Amplidyne]

It's going to depend on how rough the sawn timber is in the first place, and how much wind and bend it's got.
I've planed up some stuff bigger than my machine before now by hand, using both a jack, and a planer, but it's a bit of a job
Acquaintance of mine has one of those benchtop thicknessers, and I was impressed, but it's not much good for taking out any warping.
Haven't worked with sapele, are these square edged sawn with the wane removed. That's a good start.
I agree about being less disappointed with your own work though.

 

[Fitzroy]

I recently made sash window sills from rough saw stock. I used a surface planer and thicknesser to machine straight at square, then a table saw and hand plane to add the sill profiles. You could take the sawn stock to flat and square with had tools but it would be some work.

You can use a thicknesser as a surface planer by using a long flat board as a sled. Search YT to see videos. You’d still need to use hand tools to put a perpendicular edge on. You can then use the table saw and thicknesser to finish square and to size.

 

[O'Chippy]

It's going to depend on how rough the sawn timber is in the first place, and how much wind and bend it's got.
I've planed up some stuff bigger than my machine before now by hand, using both a jack, and a planer, but it's a bit of a job
Acquaintance of mine has one of those benchtop thicknessers, and I was impressed, but it's not much good for taking out any warping.
Haven't worked with sapele, are these square edged sawn with the wane removed. That's a good start.
I agree about being less disappointed with your own work though.

They will be square edged sawn, I've also asked the yard if they machine to PAR, I believe they will so I've asked for a quote.
Dimensioned PAR would be a great head start (vs sawn) and then cutting the bevels and upstands would be a lot easier.

 

[O'Chippy]

I recently made sash window sills from rough saw stock. I used a surface planer and thicknesser to machine straight at square, then a table saw and hand plane to add the sill profiles. You could take the sawn stock to flat and square with had tools but it would be some work.

You can use a thicknesser as a surface planer by using a long flat board as a sled. Search YT to see videos. You’d still need to use hand tools to put a perpendicular edge on. You can then use the table saw and thicknesser to finish square and to size.

I'm actually now considering purchasing the P/T the Metabo HC260C.
I'd still have to cut/finish the weathering bevel on the table saw/electrical hand plane but I'll just have to suffer that, the wife would hit the roof if a palleted tilting head spindle moulder lands on the driveway.
She complains I'm more time researching and buying tools than actually using them, and she's right!