Creaking laminate?

[Georget79]

Just had laminate installed over natural floorboards. The floorboards were even and not creaky. He did the living room first, underlay then laminate, before coming back to do the hall.

After the living room was done, there was no sound at all, perfectly smooth. Today he did the hall, and now the first section of thr living room when you go in, creaks badly when walking on it.

I noticed at the door frame, there is one tiny section that hasnt got an expansion gap. Could this be the cause of the creaking? As far as I saw, there was an expansion gap everywhere else in the living room (beading down now so can't check), but now I've noticed this

 

[Bingy man]

Just had laminate installed over natural floorboards. The floorboards were even and not creaky. He did the living room first, underlay then laminate, before coming back to do the hall.

After the living room was done, there was no sound at all, perfectly smooth. Today he did the hall, and now the first section of thr living room when you go in, creaks badly when walking on it.

I noticed at the door frame, there is one tiny section that hasnt got an expansion gap. Could this be the cause of the creaking? As far as I saw, there was an expansion gap everywhere else in the living room (beading down now so can't check), but now I've noticed this

Tbh with the information you have supplied and the single photo it’s difficult to say . Imo and experience it’s unlikely that 1 small area would cause a bad creak. Have you spoke to thd installer ? . I’ve never had this issue personally so again difficult to say but it sounds like part of the flooring is maybe trapped and under tension hence the creaking. Was the existing floor completely level or was it uneven at some point causing the problem. Has it been installed from one room to the other ( no door bar fitted) . A few more pics of both rooms from different angles/ views will help .. what thickness is it and what underlay has been used ..

 

[duke]

That could be the issue, wonder why the door frame and casing wasn't undercut so the expansion joint area would not been seen.
As Bingy man said more pics would help.

 

[Georget79]

I didn't realise until after he left, I'll ask him tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure the floorboards underneath were even. The whole room and hall were, although this is an area I may not have noticed much.
It's been installed in the living room and the adjoining hall, so there's no door bar fitted on that door.
It's 10mm laminate and 3mm pro gold Vapour underlay. The hall is perfectly quiet, as is most of the living room, but this noise is so loud now.
As I said, he did living room the other day, so for a few days I didn't hear any creaks at all, on the area I now hear it loudly, so since the hall has been laid, this noise appeared in living room. More photos and video attached

 

[Bingy man]

I didn't realise until after he left, I'll ask him tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure the floorboards underneath were even. The whole room and hall were, although this is an area I may not have noticed much.
It's been installed in the living room and the adjoining hall, so there's no door bar fitted on that door.
It's 10mm laminate and 3mm pro gold Vapour underlay. The hall is perfectly quiet, as is most of the living room, but this noise is so loud now.
As I said, he did living room the other day, so for a few days I didn't hear any creaks at all, on the area I now hear it loudly, so since the hall has been laid, this noise appeared in living room. More photos and video attached

That sounds horrible and as said I’ve never had that problem and although I’m not a pro floor installer I’ve laid many over the years - I’d get the fitter back asap . I’m wondering if he has used the beading to try to compensate for an uneven section of floorboards. I’d ask him to remove the beading and see if it stops ghe racket ..

 

[Cabinetman]

Not recommending it (particularly in this case) but I’ve heard that talcum powder can stop stairs squeaking, seems unlikely but a friend swore it worked.
That one bit rubbing against the door frame is fairly easy to check, but I suspect some of the laminate isn’t supported- ie a low part of the original floor.
Ian

 

[Georget79]

That sounds horrible and as said I’ve never had that problem and although I’m not a pro floor installer I’ve laid many over the years - I’d get the fitter back asap . I’m wondering if he has used the beading to try to compensate for an uneven section of floorboards. I’d ask him to remove the beading and see if it stops ghe racket ..

Thanks, good to hear it's not common as it may mean it's easily solvable. Especially I think because it was fine before adding the hall laminate, makes me think there must be tension there somewhere after he connected it all, including the beading. I may take some off myself today, and see what happens.

 

[Georget79]

Not recommending it (particularly in this case) but I’ve heard that talcum powder can stop stairs squeaking, seems unlikely but a friend swore it worked.
That one bit rubbing against the door frame is fairly easy to check, but I suspect some of the laminate isn’t supported- ie a low part of the original floor.
Ian

Yeah I've used talcum powder on floorboards before, it does work to an extent so may try that. What would be the best way to do that bit by the door frame? I don't know what tool would be best to cut it, and any other bits I find like that...
That makes sense it may be an unsupported bit of the floor underneath, but what I can't understand is that there was no creaking on that part of the laminate until he connected the hall

 

[Wattsjoinerybarn]

Cut a relief cut with a skills as and multi tool in the door way then cover with a threshold trim. Also ease the cuts around the frame(should have been undercut but that ship has sailed)
When siliconed back in I doubt it will creak, this would be the first step as that area looks crap and the fitter needs to rectify that.

After that you might find what’s happening is the unevenness and different room shapes are adding up to cause a tension or pinch point. Separating the two rooms will highlight which room is pinching or either get rid of the problem. Then you can fix by following the sound and removing the bead if needed.

 

[Georget79]

Cut a relief cut with a skills as and multi tool in the door way then cover with a threshold trim. Also ease the cuts around the frame(should have been undercut but that ship has sailed)
When siliconed back in I doubt it will creak, this would be the first step as that area looks rubbish and the fitter needs to rectify that.

After that you might find what’s happening is the unevenness and different room shapes are adding up to cause a tension or pinch point. Separating the two rooms will highlight which room is pinching or either get rid of the problem. Then you can fix by following the sound and removing the bead if needed.

Wow, what a result. Took that section of beading off and noise completely gone. Didn't even fiddle with anything else.

 

[Bingy man]

Wow, what a result. Took that section of beading off and noise completely gone. Didn't even fiddle with anything else.

The problem now is will the creak return if you refit the beading ( or have you already done so ) good to hear you have hopefully resolved the issue..

 

[Agent_zed]

That could be the issue, wonder why the door frame and casing wasn't undercut so the expansion joint area would not been seen.
As Bingy man said more pics would help.

I may be missing a trick but I can't see how you can undercut a doorframe to allow the board in. Unless you start at the door (perhaps this is the trick?) the board needs to be put in at a 45 degree angle to click into the next one, which makes it impossible for it to get past the doorframe.

 

[Bingy man]

Click flooring is not easy to install around obstructions as by it’s design and as you say it has to be raised to approx 45 degrees to allow it to lock in or click into place . Years ago they did a knock in flooring that would simply slot into place or under the edge of door frames . I’ve removed door jams previously to reduce cut outs .

 

[Woodworker Ireland]

Click flooring is not easy to install around obstructions as by it’s design and as you say it has to be raised to approx 45 degrees to allow it to lock in or click into place . Years ago they did a knock in flooring that would simply slot into place or under the edge of door frames . I’ve removed door jams previously to reduce cut outs .

Always start at the door. Hall ways and corridoors with multiple doors are challenging

 

[duke]

I may be missing a trick but I can't see how you can undercut a doorframe to allow the board in. Unless you start at the door (perhaps this is the trick?) the board needs to be put in at a 45 degree angle to click into the next one, which makes it impossible for it to get past the doorframe.

What I have done with with the type or flooring that needs to be at a 45 is have a joint at the door click it in slide it under the jamb cut the next piece tight then tap the row back so that the door jamb covers the edges.
Also have removed some of the locking bit under the click edge , glued the groove and laid a full or non joint plank under the jamb until the other end can be set . then slide it over till ends are covered.