That tends to be my experience in material over 12 to 18mm thick, they just don't like cutting perpendicular but then they were designed to cut curves. If I get a need where the jigsaw is the only option then I would just buy the mafell as that with it's expensive thicker blades looks to be the only jigsaw that can cut perpendicular.Jigsaws don't cut square. It doesn't matter which model, how used, or which blades, the cut wanders off square.
Excellent advice. My jigsaw approach is the same. Anything thicker than 3/4" the jigsaw is for bulk removal only and the neat cut is done with a router. Disinterior advice (post 17) is also good but I'm not really keen on making plunge cuts in thick material with a track saw.40mm solid oak can be a handful for most jigsaws which are best not used for the final cut anyway. I've fitted hundreds of kitchens professionally and would never use a circular saw either. Jigsaw to remove the bulk of the waste then a router to finish is quick and easy. A router is so useful you should have one anyway (I have 4), look for a Lidl / Aldi version if you want cheap, they're half decent and have 3 year warranty.
If you have hand tools you could use a block plane or even a sharp chisel to straighten the cuts.
Hardwood floor, not doorDo you mean a hardwood door ? A track saw can easily cut sheet goods etc but a router can do so much more so that would be my choice
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