Collection of 3d printing files relevant for woodworking

[pops92]

Loc line dust extraction for my pillar drill. Can be extended by adding adding as shown 3rd photo. Made to fit to standard wet and dry vac.
Now I have the Sonic Pad prints are better and faster. This is PETG done in vase mode.

 

[sploo]

I can now print at 150mm/s+ with upto 3000mm/s acceleration. Print times are down, print quality is up.

Nice.

On my Ender 3 V2 with a stock hot end (but a bi-metallic heat break and a 0.6mm CHT nozzle) I'm generally running at 65mm/s with 800mm/s^2 acceleration.

Certainly from what I've seen it's the acceleration that makes the really big difference to print times; as you so rarely hit the target linear speed (except on really big models). I must get off my butt and try Klipper on a Pi... but I have been saying that to myself for months

 

[DBT85]

Nice.

On my Ender 3 V2 with a stock hot end (but a bi-metallic heat break and a 0.6mm CHT nozzle) I'm generally running at 65mm/s with 800mm/s^2 acceleration.

Certainly from what I've seen it's the acceleration that makes the really big difference to print times; as you so rarely hit the target linear speed (except on really big models). I must get off my butt and try Klipper on a Pi... but I have been saying that to myself for months

Honestly Sploo I put it off for ages as I was sure I would end up throwing it out the window, but it was pretty seamless.

Loc line dust extraction for my pillar drill. Can be extended by adding adding as shown 3rd photo. Made to fit to standard wet and dry vac.
Now I have the Sonic Pad prints are better and faster. This is PETG done in vase mode.

Nice to see even a single wall is strong enough to hold like that! This may be the route I end up going down for my cheapo silverline drill.

 

[StilwellDesigns]

Love this thread, watching!

 

[pops92]

This was a challenge but worked good in the end

 

[kinverkid]

I wondered how long it would be before someone would come up with their version of the Microjig Fitfinder. Printed it out today and it works a treat.

Printables Half Helper

 

[ScaredyCat]

I've made a couple they can be found here Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

The most popular is My Adaptors by ScaredyCat which allows you to design your own hose adaptor.

 

[Gadjet]

I have never owned (or used) a 3d printer, so I don't really know what I'm talking about, however the subject came up recently with some friends and aparently some housing associations explicitally ban the use of 3D printers because of their tendency to overheat and so a fire risk.

Not sure how credible that is?

I've had 3D printers for a few years and never had a fire, having said that it has definitely happened to people, one key reason is the power connector linking the power supply to the printer as they are often counterfeits and poor quality.
Things have moved on over the years and most good quality branded printers would be as safe as your fridge

 

[supertom44]

I managed to misplace the threaded guide bushing adapter for my Bosch plunge router, so found a "normal" guide bushing design and modified it to fit my threaded bushing, figured might be useful to others too.
Bosch Router Threaded Guide Bushing Adapter by supertom44

 

[Britman]

I know it's just a knob but I like it because it has a cap so you don't see the bolt head. And it's my first upload to Printables.

https://www.printables.com/model/589381-m6-bolt-knob
STEP files are available for your own remix.

 

[Jarno]

Came across these parts to make a jig to mark out pins on a dovetail joint, the jig itself is handy, I think (haven't tried it yet), but what makes it extra interesting is the fact that he included a little offset. It is a workalike of Rob Cosmans "Shawn Shim" method (albeit with a single offset)
https://www.printables.com/model/492563-dovetail-jig

Keen on giving this one a try, dovetails fitting right off the saw speeds things up considerably.

 

[supertom44]

Came across these parts to make a jig to mark out pins on a dovetail joint, the jig itself is handy, I think (haven't tried it yet), but what makes it extra interesting is the fact that he included a little offset. It is a workalike of Rob Cosmans "Shawn Shim" method (albeit with a single offset)
https://www.printables.com/model/492563-dovetail-jig

Keen on giving this one a try, dovetails fitting right off the saw speeds things up considerably.

That's pretty cool, could always modify the files if you needed a different offset.

I'm a fan of the rebate method as it allows you to hide the groove for a bottom panel if needed, but the method above would be quicker and usefull when you don't need to hide a groove.

Going to print this and give it a try, thanks for sharing.

 

[Jarno]

Haven't tried it out yet, but I did print the parts and scrounged the hardware at work. It seems like it is going to work, but the flaps on the rear are in the way of marking the half pins, and for material thinner than 12mm / 0.5" the offset nubs get in the way. Might do an alternative design this weekend, but I am going to try the jig out on 3/4" stock first. Also, I could only get 12mm bar stock, so if I am doing a design, I'll change it over to 12mm.

 

[paulrbarnard]

I've done a couple recently. I did a marking gauge for the Clamex S-20 system. Peter Millard was doing a give away so the gauge offered an easy method for the give away winners to try the Clamex out. Clamex S-20 Hole Marker by paulrbarnard

On Wednesday I was knocking up a shaker syle door for my daughter using some 18mm MDF and the Domino 500 doesn't have a stop for 18mm boards. Being OCD I inevitably set it using the scale but figured I'd print out a replacement stop that has a setting for 18mm. I canvased some feedback from the 10 Minute Workshop crew and did two versions. the 'standard' one with 12, 15, 18, 22, 25, 30 and 40mm stops and a 'veneer' version with stops at 15, 17.5, 18, 19, 22, 32 and 40mm. They work nicely. Domino 500 Replacement Stop by paulrbarnard

 

[supertom44]

I've done a couple recently. I did a marking gauge for the Clamex S-20 system. Peter Millard was doing a give away so the gauge offered an easy method for the give away winners to try the Clamex out. Clamex S-20 Hole Marker by paulrbarnard

On Wednesday I was knocking up a shaker syle door for my daughter using some 18mm MDF and the Domino 500 doesn't have a stop for 18mm boards. Being OCD I inevitably set it using the scale but figured I'd print out a replacement stop that has a setting for 18mm. I canvased some feedback from the 10 Minute Workshop crew and did two versions. the 'standard' one with 12, 15, 18, 22, 25, 30 and 40mm stops and a 'veneer' version with stops at 15, 17.5, 18, 19, 22, 32 and 40mm. They work nicely. Domino 500 Replacement Stop by paulrbarnard

The domino stop is a great idea, will definitely be printing this tomorrow, thank you for creating and sharing!

 

[Jarno]

So, turns out I did make a variant for the dovetailjig found on printables.com
Had a bit of time, and since I only had 12mm square bar, the extra slop on the printables jig which was designed for 1/2" bar stock made fitting it extra fiddly.
Also, I wanted one for use with thin stock.
Will post here tomorrow, but it works really well.

This is 9mm meranti, not completely "off the saw" (and glued, planed and finished with a little bit of BLO), I did do a little bit of paring, but definitely quicker than without jig, and definitely neater. Lower pin has a little gap, paring mistake on my part. Stoked to use it on a real project.

Edit: remix entry on Printables created:
https://www.printables.com/model/616830-dovetail-jig-optimised-for-use-in-thin-stock

 

[paulrbarnard]

The domino stop is a great idea, will definitely be printing this tomorrow, thank you for creating and sharing!

Tom I made a couple of minor tweeks to the model. The indents needed bedding in previously. I’ve rounded them over a bit more and I’ve strengthened the finger pull as I managed to break one off while pulling the stop backwards and forwards to bed in the indents . If you haven’t printed yet it’s worth downloading the updated files.

 

[Britman]

I'll be the first to admit that using this is a little clunky but it does work well enough. I'd only use it to mark where the holes go and not as a drilling guide. I've also entered it into the Printables Drilling contest.

View attachment IMG20231118143246.jpgView attachment IMG20231118143443.jpg

https://www.printables.com/model/651087-cabinet-handles-spacing-jig

 

[Michael7]

If a 3D printer has been properly designed and CE/UKCA approved, there should be no more concern about fire risk than any other piece of equipment. The testers, if they have done their job properly, should have identified any risk of overheating and looked for a single failure which might cause a fire.
Not all 3D printers are approved.

Printers nowadays have a failsafe sensor fitted in case of overheating. Mine stopped for this very reason. Can't remember what it said on the screen but I had to change the thermistor, about £15. I have an Artillery Hornet, a very basic printer but good at printing simple stuff. Keep the parts well oiled (sewing machine oil works so far) and it'll keep on going.

 

[Kosh42EFG]

For 3D printers I have two recommendations:

1 - If you want a 3D printer as a tool that just works, go for a Bamboo Labs printer. They are a recent entrant to the market that are a real disruptor. True plug and play. They also have a filament changer option to allow you to mix filament in a single print.

2 - If you want a 3D printer as a hobby to tinker with and play with, upgrade, modify, etc then look at a Voron kit. Parts you build yourself from a thorough guide, and can be a very capable printer. You will learn mechanical assembly, machine maintenance, wiring and soldering (high and low voltage, etc. I have three and they occupy me indoors when it's too cold out in the garage.