Collection of 3d printing files relevant for woodworking

[kinverkid]

I made this clock a while back. Not totally impressed with it but was a good learning project. I thought with it being art and crafty that a Mackintosh style tile set in a frame on the front would be nice. So, this is my first attempt using the 3d printer and coloured UV resin. Would make another clock for it though. May work on making art and craft style numerals too.

 

[woodieallen]

Can a 3D printer make an enclosed space? Say, like a ping-pong ball? Or a cube? What has prompted this question was watching the excellent BBC episode of Forensics where the guy had made many of the parts for a semi-automatic rifle. (No, I have no plans to emulate him!)

 

[Britman]

I made this clock a while back. Not totally impressed with it but was a good learning project. I thought with it being art and crafty that a Mackintosh style tile set in a frame on the front would be nice. So, this is my first attempt using the 3d printer and coloured UV resin. Would make another clock for it though. May work on making art and craft style numerals too.
View attachment 179605View attachment 179606View attachment 179607

I like it
I have tried a similar process with no success.
I 3D printer a pattern (the lead) and failed at filling with coloured UV resin. Leaks everywhere, the resin curing on the outside while still being liquid inside.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Can a 3D printer make an enclosed space? Say, like a ping-pong ball? Or a cube? What has prompted this question was watching the excellent BBC episode of Forensics where the guy had made many of the parts for a semi-automatic rifle. (No, I have no plans to emulate him!)

Yes it can even make parts inside of parts.

 

[sploo]

Yes (enclosed space). The only issue is that they can't print on top of nothing; so a ping-pong ball would be feasible as closing the top of the ball would result in a series of layers that (just) have material underneath to support them. A hollow cube would be harder as there'd be nothing underneath most of the top surface when it gets printed; though most FDM printers can bridge across gaps with some success: e.g. https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337959538

 

[kinverkid]

I like it
I have tried a similar process with no success.
I 3D printer a pattern (the lead) and failed at filling with coloured UV resin. Leaks everywhere, the resin curing on the outside while still being liquid inside.

I coated the whole thing with a very thin brush of clear resin first. If there are any leaks it should seal them. Then I brushed on the mica powder keeping to one area and colour at a time then poured in clear resin over the top. Some sections needed this done twice. This gives it a 3D-glazed look. The opaque gold pre-coloured UV resin was used last. It covers the bits where powder and resin overspilled their sections. Even though it was only thirty seconds to cure each coat it was still time-consuming.

 

[Jarno]

That tile looks great, definitely nails the vibe. Pretty nifty, sort of cloisonne technique using a 3d print, cool.

 

[Sachakins]

Very Rennie Mackintosh style.

 

[ChaiLatte]

A hollow cube would be harder as there'd be nothing underneath most of the top surface when it gets printed;

That is assuming you print it flat on the bed. AIUI, an overhang of 45 degrees is generally considered possible. Thus you could stand the cube on one of its corners, with external support, and print it.

Something like a hollow dodecahedron might be difficult as the overhang would exceed 45 degrees.

 

[sploo]

That is assuming you print it flat on the bed. AIUI, an overhang of 45 degrees is generally considered possible. Thus you could stand the cube on one of its corners, with external support, and print it.

Something like a hollow dodecahedron might be difficult as the overhang would exceed 45 degrees.

True. I'd say that would be trading internal support for external support but I have seen people print such a cube by "supporting" just the bottom corner with a flat disc on the print bed.

 

[kinverkid]

Plane iron screwdriver. I'll upload it to printables later.

 

[kinverkid]

For the last fifteen months, I have had Peripheral neuropathy in my fingertips and feet. The effect it has on my fingers so far is that they are numb a little like they are asleep. This makes it difficult for me to pick up some small things and I'm completely buggered if I knock over washers and small nuts. So I fished out my old fingerprinting wand. This worked by putting the wand into a pot of fine iron filings coated with very fine aluminium powder. The magnet inside the wand would attract the mix and when applied to areas where there are fingerprints the aluminium powder would often adhere ready to be photographed or lifted. The excess powder would be put back into the pot by lifting the sprung rod at the opposite end, pulling the magnet into a thicker part of the wand where it would mask the magnet and the powder mix would drop back into the pot. The same thing happens with small items like washers. Pick them up with the magnet and drop them into the container. The one on the left is my original aluminium wand next to a modified version more suited to the workshop. The original purposely has a weak magnet whereas my version has an Earth-magnet to make it a little stronger.

 

[kinverkid]

Don't know if I'll ever use it but this is one of many profile followers' STL files on Thangs. I made the small screws box too.

 

[kinverkid]

I've just fitted a DRO to my thicknesser and RAS. Why? Because I had a couple of DRO's from an abandoned project. Yet to see if they are off any use to me.

Also fitted led's inside the arm cover of the RAS (no 3d printing here) and printed cable holders to the arm. Other prints in the photos are the ear defender hanger and a mobile remote control holder held on with magnets.