Chisel gets dull whilst working up through the grits

[SimonStevensCanes]

I am bad at sharpening, and have undertaken making a dovetailed box, which by the time it is complete will require me to have become "passable" at sharpening.

I have 600, 2000, 4000, 8000 grit wet stones. I can freehand a bevel on the 600 grit that feels sharp, but when I step it up to the 2000 grit with a microbevel, it appears to dull the edge more than sharpen it.

I'm rather hoping this is a well understood boo boo that I'm making and somebody can give me a clear instruction for how to, um, not do it. I have of course read many instructions, and watched many videos on the topic, but the skill still eludes me.

 

[Adam W.]

Try stopping at the 600 and going straight to a strop, a leather one that is and not a hissy fit.

Here comes the shocker......Don't bother with the micro bevel.

Once you get a sharp chisel from that you could add in the 2000 and then strop and still don't bother with the micro bevel.

 

[Adam W.]

Or you could try alchemy, all sorts of techniques, potions and magik sharpening incantations.

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

a leather one that is and not a hissy fit.

I have already tried the latter.

Tbh I have always looked at the leather strops as being a bit unnecessary, like.. who needs it THAT sharp? I should get one and find out for myself though I suppose.

 

[Jacob]

Try stopping at the 600 and going straight to a strop, a leather one that is and not a hissy fit.

Here comes the shocker......Don't bother with the micro bevel.

Once you get a sharp chisel from that you could add in the 2000 and then strop and still don't bother with the micro bevel.

Agree.
Just miss out most of those grits. If you are free-handing then just do a little and often, it's easier and the thing stays sharper longer. It's like sharpening a pencil - you don't wait for it to become really blunt you keep touching it up
Paul Sellars does it neatly with just three grits and no "micro" bevels. Just two grits and a strop is even better
PS grit sizes mean nothing to me I've got coarse, medium and fine. I also strop on my palm which somehow feels as though it's doing something but I'm not 100% convinced

 

[Adam W.]

I made mine from a 1 foot long bit of a leather belt, glued it to a bit of wood and use any old polish paste or compound.

They make all the difference if you want a chisel that shaves hair.

And YOU need it that sharp.

 

[Argus]

Definitely a fully formed micro-bevel, followed by a carefully controlled and precise back bevel. The "Ruler Trick"is an essential technique........ I won't go on!

 

[Jacob]

Definitely a fully formed micro-bevel, followed by a carefully controlled and precise back bevel. The "Ruler Trick"is an essential technique........ I won't go on!

The ruler trick is a good one but it's easier without the ruler.
I call it "the without a ruler trick".
But don't go there Snettymakes, that way madness lies!

 

[Adam W.]

It does however make for a longer and more challenging thread, especially when North America wakes up.

 

[Just4Fun]

Anyway, the ruler trick is surely for plane blades, not chisels.

 

[Jacob]

Anyway, the ruler trick is surely for plane blades, not chisels.

Either, if necessary. Without a ruler too!

 

[Adam W.]

This bloke doesn't need a ruler.

 

[Droogs]

I made mine from a 1 foot long bit of a leather belt, glued it to a bit of wood and use any old polish paste or compound.

They make all the difference if you want a chisel that shaves hair.

And YOU need it that sharp.

Depends on the use of the chisel:
Mortice - no just 600 freehand and chop
whacking it chisel - all freehand 600 if really dull then 1000 and a quick 1200 and then some auto sol. all given about a dozen quick strokes
Pairing chisel - freehand thorugh grits to 4000 and then a tiny freehand microbevel by lifting the handle at the end of the stoke on the strop

 

[Adam W.]

Carving gouge, paring chisel, bench chisel, framing chisel & planes of all sexes:

Red India & WD40
Slate & WD40
Strop with green compound

No back bevel, no micro bevel, no ruler.

 

[Cabinetman]

I know I shouldn’t!
Just an ordinary combination oilstone, don’t know what the grit is probably about 400, when the chisel gets blunt a bit of a rub at one end of the stone turn it over and rub the back, wipe it on a bit of rag and get back to work. I don’t know how you people ever get anything done.

 

[Daniel2]

 

[Argus]

...........Just an ordinary combination oilstone, don’t know what the grit is probably about 400, when the chisel gets blunt a bit of a rub at one end of the stone turn it over and rub the back, wipe it on a bit of rag and get back to work. I don’t know how you people ever get anything done.

Exactly!

But what to do with all the diamond stones, abrasive papers, exotic glass plates and infallible honing guides?

There will be unemployment and great lamentations amongst the merchants and vendors. Hunger and pestilence........

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Anyway, the ruler trick is surely for plane blades, not chisels.

Realistically it takes off so little it'd make no difference on a chisel.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I know I shouldn’t!
Just an ordinary combination oilstone, don’t know what the grit is probably about 400, when the chisel gets blunt a bit of a rub at one end of the stone turn it over and rub the back, wipe it on a bit of rag and get back to work. I don’t know how you people ever get anything done.

Much the same with a 1200 water stone.

 

[CaptainBudget]

(here we go...)

Go for a 600/800/1000 grit stone of your choice (depends what is commercially available for you, mine's a 400 & 1000 double-sided diamond stone). You only need the one grit. Then strop with leather & compound until shiny. I admit I use a basic honing guide (don't trust myself freehand and don't have time to learn), but in 5 mins I have a razor sharp blade that shaves hair and I'm back to work.

I cut dovetails & tenons in softwood for 99.9% of my work, the blade HAS to be razor sharp or it just crushes the fibres. I only use a 25 degree primary bevel and the actual cutting edge I sharpen is 30 degrees, I don't bother with a tertiary micro-bevel, never seen the point.

I will go for the 400-grit side of my stone if the edge is particularly rough (i.e. a hard knot has chipped the edge), but otherwise use my 1000 exclusively.

That strop makes one hell of a difference, and by cannibalising an old leather belt and an offcut they cost 10/6...