Chisel gets dull whilst working up through the grits
- Thread starter SimonStevensCanes
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(I'm assuming folks here have eaten grits - at least one or two. I grew up right at the dividing line between north and south in the US - not the notional line, but the geographic divide from the civil war. We got a franchise restaurant from the south and I worked at it. They had grits. I was sure there was something wrong with them but each time, I tried them, they were the same. I didn't try them that many times. I hear with enough butter and salt they can taste good...if you like to eat mostly butter and salt).
Chippysu
Established Member
doctor Bob
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Blow me down, thought you were taking the mickey.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Well that's a messy corner.
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Sgian Dubh
Established Member
Chippysu
Established Member
Lots happening on the bench at the mo!
Sweet Jesus, what happened to my thread?
I read the first couple of pages and took away the advice there and applied as much as I was able over the weekend.
I chucked out the micro-bevel. I dug out my guide and found that improved things on the >600 grits. I also found that just pulling backwards (not pushing forwards) on the higher grits also improved things. However I found that with my bevel set to 25 degrees, the edge didn't last long (less than one corner's worth of dovetails), with some chipping out.
Figuring that the bevel was too acute, I re-introduced a micro-bevel at 30 degrees with a couple of swipes at higher grits and achieved the best edge yet, that lasted me through the rest of my box making.
I think that I've still got a long way to go to get any cop at sharpening, but I do feel like your advice has got me to a point that I can actually start improving from. Thanks to all
.
Still need to buy a strop.
I read the first couple of pages and took away the advice there and applied as much as I was able over the weekend.
I chucked out the micro-bevel. I dug out my guide and found that improved things on the >600 grits. I also found that just pulling backwards (not pushing forwards) on the higher grits also improved things. However I found that with my bevel set to 25 degrees, the edge didn't last long (less than one corner's worth of dovetails), with some chipping out.
Figuring that the bevel was too acute, I re-introduced a micro-bevel at 30 degrees with a couple of swipes at higher grits and achieved the best edge yet, that lasted me through the rest of my box making.
I think that I've still got a long way to go to get any cop at sharpening, but I do feel like your advice has got me to a point that I can actually start improving from. Thanks to all
.Still need to buy a strop.
Chippysu
Established Member
Bit of context for you Adam, incase your ocd was twitching!
I'm restoring some chisels/planes in between jobs. 
S
I think that I've still got a long way to go to get any cop at sharpening, but I do feel like your advice has got me to a point that I can actually start improving from. Thanks to all
Still need to buy a strop.
great conclusion - you learned about geometry (with the microbevel) and improved edge finish at once. You'll fare better in the long term if you use some variation of what you just learned than if you sharpen a full bevel - but you can do what you did freehand. I measured a bunch of irons a few years ago when someone asked me what angle that I sharpen at, and my answer was "i don't know, the shallowest angle where a plane iron won't chip, and same with the chisels".
I freehand similar to what you did here with a guide and none of the terminal angles varied by more than about a degree. The only reason I don't use a guide is because I don't have the patience any longer.
I've heard perhaps a half dozen people say that they have a way to make them good. That's a warning for me with food (canada goose is another - "people say it tastes bad, but I know a way to make it taste good")....
...I've got a way to make geese and grits taste good. Feed them to a pig and then eat bacon.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I was begining to sweat a little, but I feel OK now after blowing into a paper bag for a while.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Well nobody has ever asked a question about sharpening before.
Box looks good.
You've given yourself a tough challenge doing DTs in thickish oak, both the cutting and the sharpening!
The outer tails look a bit on the thin side - they get called "half" DTs but 3/4 DTs is better.
You've done the DT trick of making them slightly longer - to be planed back for a neat finish, except planing end grain oak is not easy - I'd go for power sander.
Last edited:
1275gt
Established Member
I'm also a beginner and one invaluable piece of advice I learnt is keeping going till you feel a burr edge to edge. I used to see a shiny secondary bevel and assume that's me done but once I started to feel for the burr. I noticed I didn't need to go to the much higher grits as the edge was shaving sharp. (don't need to but still do so anywaySweet Jesus, what happened to my thread?
I read the first couple of pages and took away the advice there and applied as much as I was able over the weekend.
I chucked out the micro-bevel. I dug out my guide and found that improved things on the >600 grits. I also found that just pulling backwards (not pushing forwards) on the higher grits also improved things. However I found that with my bevel set to 25 degrees, the edge didn't last long (less than one corner's worth of dovetails), with some chipping out.
Figuring that the bevel was too acute, I re-introduced a micro-bevel at 30 degrees with a couple of swipes at higher grits and achieved the best edge yet, that lasted me through the rest of my box making.
View attachment 110743
I think that I've still got a long way to go to get any cop at sharpening, but I do feel like your advice has got me to a point that I can actually start improving from. Thanks to all
Still need to buy a strop.
). All the best.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Spot on! Burr especially in the middle of a plane blade - you get most wear in the middle and it's possible to leave it slightly less sharp than the rest of the blade.I'm also a beginner and one invaluable piece of advice I learnt is keeping going till you feel a burr edge to edge. I used to see a shiny secondary bevel and assume that's me done but once I started to feel for the burr. I noticed I didn't need to go to the much higher grits as the edge was shaving sharp. (don't need to but still do so anyway
All the best.
Yeah, the half DTs are probably a bit thin and therefore vulnerable. I struggled a little with my laying out (I have a gauge), but that'll come with practice.
I *can* suffer through the oak end grain, I *can't* reliably make everything the perfect size... yet. Yes the oak is a bit chunky for this application, honestly I just decided "this'll do".
I learned pretty quickly that making the hidden edges slightly concave allowed for much easier fitting, and trimming to fit.
I also realised quite early that I'd screwed up and the pins/tails are the wrong way around for my chosen application. This is a box, but it's a box that I will slide into a cubby and treat as a removable drawer, so the DTs should be set up so that they can't be pulled apart by force on the front face. Oh well, live n learn. I've got another box to make, identical, but better.
Thanks, that's some great info.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I'd plane those ends off with a sharp block plane.
A customer service agent will be along shortly to tell you how to sharpen it properly.
A customer service agent will be along shortly to tell you how to sharpen it properly.
I tried autosol on my strop last night. It’s a revelation. My chisels have never been so sharp. Great tipWell after getting through a bucket of popcorn reading this thread I saw only one mention of actual steel used. My 10p worth is it is a case of not only what works for you but also what works for the steel your chisel is made from. I have various grades of oilstones and waterstones which I bought when starting out but haven't used much since. I use tend to use oilstones and a basic guide for working through a damaged (chipped) edge and freehand for honing; this works for me on my dewalt and old sandvik chisels for now but I also have a set of better quality kirschens stored away for which I have promised myself to hone with the waterstones once I've setup my new workshop later this year. I use a scrap of upturned leather glued to a piece of mdf plus autosol for final stropping. I know if I've got it right if I can square out a routed mortise with three strokes and not reach for Thor's Hammer. For context I use the dewalts for building work but I've made furniture with the sandviks all with hand made joints.
scooby
Established Member
Sweet Jesus, what happened to my thread?
I read the first couple of pages and took away the advice there and applied as much as I was able over the weekend.
I chucked out the micro-bevel. I dug out my guide and found that improved things on the >600 grits. I also found that just pulling backwards (not pushing forwards) on the higher grits also improved things. However I found that with my bevel set to 25 degrees, the edge didn't last long (less than one corner's worth of dovetails), with some chipping out.
Figuring that the bevel was too acute, I re-introduced a micro-bevel at 30 degrees with a couple of swipes at higher grits and achieved the best edge yet, that lasted me through the rest of my box making.
I think that I've still got a long way to go to get any cop at sharpening, but I do feel like your advice has got me to a point that I can actually start improving from. Thanks to all
Still need to buy a strop.
I think you're done a good job there
