Cast Iron Care

[engineer one]

still think the best way to go for an unheated shed and similar situations, you should look at some of the motorcycle or vintage car materials.

the rust on the non working parts of the machine i would tend to use a wire brush, get rid of it, and then use some phosporic acid and then neutralise it, this is what jenolite used to be, not sure whether you can still get it. you can also get some spray paints like rustoleum , and it is always good to remove that, as if it was on your car.

as for the working surfaces, i agree with the others. as for the resin etc,
cmt do a good spray cleaner, and of course you can use white spirit, and then oil. in particular when using resinous woods i would tend to think about cleaning the planer blades regularly.

another thing to think about is cleaning up the thicknesser part of the machine, for this i find a compressor and blower head to remove the balance of the chips after usage.

good luck

paul :wink:

 

[TonyW]

Here's a stupid question: Dehumidifier, do they require to be plugged in all night, or can you get non-powered ones? The reason I ask is because the power to my workshop is not on unless i'm in there - all the electric is brought into the workshop via an extension lead into the house, which means I have to unplug/plug in as and when I use the shop until I can get the workshop ring wired up to the house..

The only "real" ones I have seen need to be powered all the time (at least in the damper months) to obtain the full benefits. I say "real" because there is another product I have seen
http://www.4air.co.uk/dehumidifiers-home-office-c-860395437_2500.html?google=deh02.
It is a small egg which I believe contains silica gel (changes colour when saturated). However, I do not believe that this would work too well without buying dozens of the little devils. I think that it would probably do its job better in an enclosed environment. Mentioned it just in case!

Cheers
Tony

 

[TonyW]

Here is how I keep cast iron machines rust free

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14547&highlight=


Bob

Bob
Looked at your link. What an ingenious solution - certainly have never come across this before. If the offer in your link still stands I would like more info

Cheers
Tony

 

[Simon]

If the rust is heavy enough it can be a $%**er to take off by hand, I have had best results using a Stanley Scraper which "shaves" off the major rust, then go after the remnants with a scotchbrite pad and lubricating oil, or as Scrit suggested with a ROS.

I just use a wax coating and have had no problems, but I run a cheap used eBay dehumidifier.

Remember the challenge is when you get large shifts in temperature. At that point the cast iron lump stays cold and the warmer air surrounding it, may if humid enough, condensate on the cast iron surface. Think wearing a pair of glasses outside in winter and entering a warm damp kitchen, instant condensation.

I am also very impressed with Boeshield, an aerospace lubricant, protector from Turners Retreat. Seems to have long life in hard to reach places....not cheap but worth every penny

 

[OLD]

A hand held stanley blade will cut off the rust patches on the tables then fine wet and dry used dry then libron wax, put to much on first time it will get removed when you test the m/c . wire brush the feed roller and the top of the main ram, lube or paint the ram top leave roller it will fill with soft wood soon which is removed with a pointed instrument as required then wax tables and bed once a week or after a big job. Once a year do lubing as in hand book