Router Table Advice

[Spectric]

I managed to get Incra to change the plate design, it now comes with the pre drilled hole for the Trend winding handle and the fixing holes have been swivelled so the winder is forward of the fence line.

It is amazing how even companies producing high quality products like Incra can make a basic design error. I almost did not buy the Triton on the basis of someone saying that the raising handle can be a pain and you need to be double jointed to use the rotating lift knob. When I actually looked at their setup it soon became obvious that the problems were self inflicted, the lifting hole was at the 2 O'clock position and therefore the knob was at the rear. All they needed to do was refit the insert plate 180° and the lifting hole was now at the 8 O'clock position.

On a similar note regarding the Jessem prestige lifter, how is it leveled? I have a Kreg table with the four leveling jacks in the corners adjusted from below the table, would I continue to use these?

 

[JimG]

When the T11 is used upside down in a table the height of the cutter can be changed (raised/lowered) via a handle that you connect to a hex head on the base of the router (the plate needs a hole in the correct position - this can be drilled if necessary)

Have a look at this video - just jump to the 10 minute mark
From 10:05 you can clearly see the hole at the 4 o'clock position on the plate and from 10:30 he demonstrates the adjustment (bit of discussion on the handle used at 11:40)

And, apologies, must have had a bit of a brain fritz in my first post (#14) - 'Trend CWT' in that post should have been 'Trend WRT' <doh!>

Thanks very much. This is really helpful.

 

[JimG]

This is an old video I made a few years ago showing the Router Raizer sadly no longer available, it shows the Incra plate which I drilled for the Dewalt 625 Raizer hole. I managed to get Incra to change the plate design, it now comes with the pre drilled hole for the Trend winding handle and the fixing holes have been swivelled so the winder is forward of the fence line.

This is really helpful. Thank you very much for the video.

 

[johnnyb]

I suggest sending your faulty stuff back for a refund. Next I suggesting buying a decent used router. I love the festool mof2000. but the dewalt is reasonable. then make your own small router table use anything but birch ply is good and not thick.
what I've found and I've had numerous made tables they are all poor. I've had a trend cut I've now got a Jessem they have all been more or less unusable out of the box. the split fences don't line up. the features are just poo. basically unfit.
what making your own will do will educate you on why these commercial tables are poor and more importantly how you can fix them on your homemade. also homemade means a long wooden fence can be attached negating perfection in the fence.
a basic usable router table will take a weekend to knock up. also many commercial tables enclose the router shortening its life greatly.

 

[Peter Sefton]

It is amazing how even companies producing high quality products like Incra can make a basic design error. I almost did not buy the Triton on the basis of someone saying that the raising handle can be a pain and you need to be double jointed to use the rotating lift knob. When I actually looked at their setup it soon became obvious that the problems were self inflicted, the lifting hole was at the 2 O'clock position and therefore the knob was at the rear. All they needed to do was refit the insert plate 180° and the lifting hole was now at the 8 O'clock position.

On a similar note regarding the Jessem prestige lifter, how is it leveled? I have a Kreg table with the four leveling jacks in the corners adjusted from below the table, would I continue to use these?

With the Trend T11 and the Dewalt 625 fitted to the Incra 621625 plate with the new holes positions the handles now stick out beyond the plate. On the drawing board it looks wrong but in use you just twist the plate when putting it into the table top so the handles go across the diagonal.

I assume your Kreg has this style adjusters in the corners?

The JessEm has Prestige plate has 10 grub screw levellers adjusted from above the table, corner fixing screws if required and snuggers to take up any slack in slight over sized table top cut outs.

We support this on a full rebate and suggest any MDF or chipboard rebate is improved with a ss insert pad or something else to spread the load/stop wear.

 

[Spectric]

Thanks for the info, the Jessem is quote "The 9.5mm thick-cast, precision ground and anodised black solid aluminium top plate is very strong and flat and will not flex or bend in use. " so my options would be A) Use the existing Kreg corner fixings and adjusters or B) using the ss insert pad and make a rebate that would fit into the Kreg table and use the ten levelers, what option would you suggest ?

 

[Peter Sefton]

If the table aperture is the same size as the JessEm plate 235mm x 298mm then it would be easy to use your existing corner blocks, you may be able to form a new ledge to support the plate but the make sure its good and strong, routers and plates are quite heavy.

 

[machone]

I bought the ujk iron table and lift with a dewalt 625. I have it working now reliably and I would recommend it. I was a beginner when I bought it and still am, really. All tables and lifts suffer from dust contamination and I am disappointed with the lift lock mechanism which does not work. You have to keep it clean ie clean after every use, especially threads and chain or it will break. They have and are producing a number of accessories for it and It is well supported by Axminster. Not cheap but it has worked from day one and put up with all my mistakes and chunks of wood bigger than it should probably take. It’s a good tool imho.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

Thanks for the info, yes the Kreg plate is the same size, I suppose Kreg & Jessem are both Cananadian. So next year will begin the upgrade of my table and initially use just the corner blocks as suggested but will check how well they are actually fixed to the table as the Jessem lifter will add some weight. If I have any doubt then I will make a rebate to fit the space and use more fixings. The Kreg lifter only accepts what I call 1/4 trim routers, the ones where you have a body and it fits a selection of bases so in my opinion would be to expensive to justify for it's limited use.

I would say that any router lift that uses a chain and sprocket arrangement like the UJK is not only over complicated but will suffer from wood dust and need more frequent cleaning, Machone if you look at the offerings from Incra & Jessem they use linear bearings to support the plate and a screw arrangement that's only function is to raise/lower the plate. With the chain arrangement you are trying to rotate all four legs that also support the plate to raise/lower it, too complicated, too many parts. If you get the chance to handle the Incra/Jessem lifts and products you will immediately appreciate the engineering, it took me by supprise when I first saw them because I never associated that level of engineering with woodwork.

 

[Rich_N]

Peter,

Any idea when the small Incra router table will be in stock? Triton are going to refund for the table and I'm keeping the router or having a replacement if needed.

But I'm now tableless!

 

[Peter Sefton]

Hi Rich

I have spoken to Jim, sorry he hasn't replied its been a crazy busy week. The Incra top will not be available until spring next year I have sent sent a message to our UK router top maker to see when they will be ready. Jim will get back in touch tomorrow, we have an idea....

 

[peter-harrison]

Have you thought about making your own table? You can buy a plate and some t-track for less than £100.

 

[Rich_N]

Have you thought about making your own table? You can buy a plate and some t-track for less than £100.

I don't have the skills to do that yet sadly. Space is also an issue as I'm setting up a workspace at one end of a single car integrated garage in a 20 year old UK house, so you can probably guess how little room there is. I cant even lie a sheet of ply down on the floor....lol.

I might have a go in a few years, once I have more skills.

 

[johnnyb]

I realise your enthusiastic to buy a new gadget but hear me out. a router table doesn't have to be huge and complicated. it can be compact and bijou. as long as the fence is straight and made from wood and the top is flattish you'll find its as good as the best brought router table and better than most. I would even bother with a router plate just use birch ply. no fiddly levelling needed. make it quick the fence can be clamped with g clamps. buying a router table won't make a master machinist its more likely to frustrate you when its poo. making one may give you an insight as to its utility.and is a great project in itself.
just as an example..Jessem make a crosscut coping fence that runs in linear bearings for end grain type work.. its rubbish and worse than a piece of mdf with a 90 degree and a handle. the secret is to use a one piece fence that will clamp(or screw) to your split fence. the Jessem fence is hundreds of pounds!

 

[MikeK]

I don't have the skills to do that yet sadly. Space is also an issue as I'm setting up a workspace at one end of a single car integrated garage in a 20 year old UK house, so you can probably guess how little room there is. I cant even lie a sheet of ply down on the floor....lol.

I might have a go in a few years, once I have more skills.

Don't sell yourself short. If you have a hand-held router and the confidence to use a router table, then you likely have the skills to make a router table that will suit your desires.

This is a good starting point to see what is possible:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/my-homemade-router-table.126434/

 

[Peter Sefton]

The best way to save money on a router table set up is making your own table top, I wouldn't waste your time with anything 18-20mm thick. If possible find a good quality 30mm or thicker HPL (Formica) kitchen worktop. Add a mitre or dual track and accurately route in a 10mm Ali router plate, thinner or phenolic ones will only sag and disappoint in time. You could make your own fence, I have made quite a few over the years but prefer well engineered ones.
One of the first things I do is remove the split fences "phenolic" HPL on MDF and replace them with well machined timber, this give you the ability to cut into the fence to reduce breakout, apply a full length or high false fence and fix any other jig or fixing required. I should say the JessEm Mast-R-Fence III has solid Canadian Maple split fences and very nice indeed.

This is one of my school fences, looks like its ready for replacing