calling all diamond stone users.

[Escudo]

Hello all,

Previous sound advice from various members resulted in my purchasing a DMT Duo-sharp diamond stone (Fine / Extra fine) which arrived this morning in the post.

I can't wait to get it fired up, but noticed that on the packet it said to be used with water only. This seemed confusing :? - as I am sure I have heard tell that this can be used with a number of different lubricants, eg Oil, WD40, etc?

What lubricant do you use your diamond stone? Appreciate members thoughts before I go and pour oil on the stone and ruin it?

Thanks, Tony.

 

[woodbloke]

Tony - paraffin for me and I know that Paul Chapman and Pete Newton use WD40 - Rob

 

[gidon]

Tony
Have a look here:
http://dmtsharp.com/dmtdiff/faqsfeedback.htm#Dry
I find white spirit (mineral spirits) works well (closest to water) but don't like the smell.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Jake]

They are fine with oil, it says so on the FAQ section of their website (edit, I see Gidon posted the link). Any light oil will do (lighter the better). I switched to lamp oil (an Alf tip, paraffin minus the stink) after a tiny corner of one of my stones went a bit rusty using water and missing an edge when drying off. Much less fuss with oil.

 

[Escudo]

Thanks fellas,

I felt sure you were all using other lubricants, and had your own favourites. I intend to use the light honing oil I have been using on my oil stones. See how I go.

Hope to get in the shed after bath time.

Cheers, Tony

 

[tnimble]

My first DMT brand stone (also duo sharp) arived this morning as well so can;t help you there. But on my ezelap diamond stone I like to use ethenol for short sharpening tasks or white spirit / naphtha for tasks that require more time.

 

[Jez]

i use this stuff

http://www.axminster.co.uk/sessionID/KE ... -33227.htm

i don't know if its actually needed, but i didn't want to spend £99 on a diamond stone and risk it rusting, i would recommend it

 

[Michael7]

I have the duosharp coarse/fine and started off using water. It started rusting soon after so I would put it on a radiator in the house so it can dry thoroughly. The stone kept rusting as I would frequently forget to bring it in so I switched to WD40. No more rust and the chisels and blades get a coating of oil too.

 

[Mike B]

I have one of the continuous DMT stones and have found that CMT Blade & Bit Cleaner (from Axminster) works the best. Keeps the stone clean and rust free too!

 

[paulm]

WD40 works fine on mine, been using it for years, no problems, no rust, just wipe it off at the end.

Cheers, Paul.

 

[Harbo]

I have always used water on mine - I am pretty sure it is not the metal of the stones that is rusting, as it is made of sort alloy, but the iron left from whatever is being sharpened.
I use a small water sprayer, after use wash in clean water and if necessary give them a scrub with a brush. Dab dry with kitchen towel and hang somewhere to dry - no rust!
No messy smelly liquids.

Rod

 

[tnimble]

Just spend a few hous with my brand new DMT duosharp. I like the stone. Altough I mixed up the course and fine side (i'm a tad colour blind so never bother to check the coloured dot. Tthe fine side felt courser at touch)

I sharpened a few plane irons and tried it out for flattening the sole of a no 5 plane that has some twist. I tried various motion techniques and lubricants.

For speed of metal removal:
- water
- ethanol
- white spirit
- WD40
- light machine oil

For longest working time before the stone glzes over:
- light machine oil
- WD40
- water
- ethanol
- white spirit

For easiest to clean
- water
- white spirit
- ethanol
- WD40
- light machine oil

The stoned work best if alternating back and forth movement with diagonal movement (of course not possible when using a honing guide) or for very long object that tend to float more alternating diagonal with sidewards movement while putting the stone and the oject crossways ( + ) .


The DMT cuts faster than ezelaps but are harder to clean. The metal carrier fine grit tend to stay darkish. I recommoend rinsing the stone under luke warm water with some hand soap (from a bottle) and a nail brush to clean off the plastic. Dep the stone dry with a cloth and let it dry leaning vertically against something. The diamond carrier being plated it prob best to use a bit of white spirit or naptha or WD40 to protect the stone from rusting.

 

[Escudo]

Thankyou all for your comments and thoughts.

I sharpened a chisel and plane iron tonight and I am impressed with my new purchase. Very effective cutting action and a lot quicker than my oil stone. I used some Liberon Honing Oil for the lubricant.

I plan to use the fine stone to reform my primary bevel when needed and the extra fine for forming the micro bevel, thereafter a final polish with my Arkansas Hard translucent Stone.

I can't decide yet if I need to use my strop after the above approach and may try a few experiments to determine what is best.

Happy times, Tony.

 

[paulm]

Rod and tnimble, a lot of unnecessary fuss and over analysing I think :shock: :lol:

Small squirt of WD40, sharpen, wipe with paper towel, get on with your woodworking, that's all that is needed honestly.........

Cheers, Paul

 

[Paul Chapman]

Small squirt of WD40, sharpen, wipe with paper towel, get on with your woodworking, that's all that is needed honestly.........

Exactly the same here - I use either WD40 or 3-in-1 and a wipe with a paper towel. Mine look like this after many years of hard use, so it works (and no rust on anything) :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jeff Gorman]

Escudo wrote:

>What lubricant do you use your diamond stone? Appreciate members thoughts before I go and pour oil on the stone and ruin it?<

The purpose of a lubricant is to prevent contact between two surfaces, the last thing we want between a tool and an abrasive.

A spray of water works OK for me, being less messy or smelly than many of the other thin fluids that will work.

I find that the most importand thing is from time to time to swab away the mud that can get between the tool and the diamonds.

 

[Anonymous]

Tony, I've been using water on them for many years and never had a rusty stone or plane blade

 

[Harbo]

Chisel - I don't think using water is " a lot of unnecessary fuss and over analysing ".

I used what it said on the packet.
Unless you are wearing rubber gloves don't your fingers get black and dirty and need a wash?
That's when my stones get washed too! I often just leave them to dry on the draining board.
Nothing fussy or complicated there and better than getting chemicals (oils) on you hands?

Rod

 

[Jake]

That's when my stones get washed too! I often just leave them to dry on the draining board.
Nothing fussy or complicated there and better than getting chemicals (oils) on you hands?

Exactly what I thought and did, (apart from giving them a swipe with a rag to dry them off) before the rust hit one time.

 

[Pete W]

Mine look like this after many years of hard use, so it works (and no rust on anything) :wink:

Looks good, Paul. Did you make the stone holders? Are they a box-like construction, or hollowed from a solid piece? Do the stones simply sit in the hollow, or is there a holding mechanism of some kind?

Thanks for any info.