Burl Backsaw build.

[swagman]

Completed the shaping of the brass back. A brass darkening solution was also applied to enrich the patina.

Stewie;

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Pardon my ignorance on the subject but do you have to fabricate your own saw spine or is it purchased then tuned accordingly.

Fantastic project by the way.

David

 

[swagman]

Pardon my ignorance on the subject but do you have to fabricate your own saw spine or is it purchased then tuned accordingly.

Fantastic project by the way.

David

Hi David. The brass for the hardbacks was purchased in standard 3/4 x 1/4. The slot for the blade was then machined by a member of our saw making forum.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

The brass back has been bonded in place with a full length bead of Loctite on both sides of the saw plate. That will prevent the possibility of corrosion ever taking hold within the section of saw plate inside the slot.

As I am wanting a slight aged appearance to the backsaw, I have treated the saw plate with Cold Metal Blue, that's then been rubbed back to a lighter hue 30 min after application. The saw plate is then well soaked in WD-40 to stop further blueing. When fully complete the saw plate assembly will be thoroughly rubbed down with a buffed soft paste wax.

I will leave the assembled backsaw hanging to fully dry off, until I am ready to apply masking tape to each side of the saw plate and start hand filing the saw teeth. Yep. The old traditional way.

The masking tape will protect the saw plate from being scratched while positioned in the saw sharpening vise.

With a 16 inch tooth line this is the longest and deepest of any of my previous backsaw builds.


Stewie;

 

[condeesteso]

Lovely saw, great to see the build and I'm sure it feels good to use. How did your mate cut the very fine slot in the back for the plate? I'm always amazed at the fit Klaus and Pedder get on theirs and I wonder how it is done?

 

[swagman]

Lovely saw, great to see the build and I'm sure it feels good to use. How did your mate cut the very fine slot in the back for the plate? I'm always amazed at the fit Klaus and Pedder get on theirs and I wonder how it is done?

Hi Douglas. That person was Ray Gardiner. Ray also owns and runs this site. http://www.backsaw.net/index.php?option ... &Itemid=58

In here you will see how Ray does the slot. http://www.backsaw.net/index.php?option ... .php&t=153

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Time to shape the saw teeth.

1st job is to adhere the 13 ppi template to the top edge of the saw plate followed by masking to tape to each side to protect the plate from being scratched while installed in the saw sharpening vise.

After that its time to notch the ppi spacing with the V point of the file facing directly down. I repeat this step twice to make sure I have formed a good seat for each tooth.

The paper template is then removed and the notched spacing are coated with blue marking dykem. The 1st 2 teeth at the heel end of the plate are being left untouched as this corner edge will cut off at an angle later on.





The file holder is then adjusted to a 10 degree Rake Angle ready to shape the saw teeth.

I add a full stroke of the file to each tooth; reapply the Dykem marker and repeat the same step. This continues up until I start to see the odd tooth getting close to losing its flat spot. From that point these and other teeth that progress to the same stage are missed during the full runs of filing.

In the following photo I have started my final run of shaping the teeth.



When complete I will then reapply the Dykem marker and give the teeth a light jointing with a flat file to insure all the points of teeth are at the same height.


Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Saw teeth sharpened and set.





Now to test the saw and see how it performs.



The kerf is nice and tight, and it follows a straight line well. A properly sharpened saw delivers a much higher pitch with each stoke compared to that which is poorly done. This backsaw delivers the right pitch so its a sharpening job that's been well done.


Stewie; =D>

 

[condeesteso]

Thanks Stewie. A mine of info on backsaw.net! I'd come across the folding technique but it must be very hard to remove all spring and get it really tight, I wondered. The drill press is a possible (in the average workshop) but I know a man with a milling machine :wink: - that may be worth investigating. Where are those 20 thou blades sourced from? Sorry, end of questions now.

 

[Harbo]

Lovely work Stewie - thanks for the WIP.

Rod

 

[swagman]

Thanks Stewie. A mine of info on backsaw.net! I'd come across the folding technique but it must be very hard to remove all spring and get it really tight, I wondered. The drill press is a possible (in the average workshop) but I know a man with a milling machine :wink: - that may be worth investigating. Where are those 20 thou blades sourced from? Sorry, end of questions now.

Hi Douglas. If your looking at making your own backsaws can I suggest your best to forward them through backsaw.net. You will need further info on the slitting saw size to slot the spines and Ray is the best guy to answer those questions. He will no doubt have the info your also after regarding sourcing saw plate.

regards Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Lovely work Stewie - thanks for the WIP.

Rod

Thanks Rod. Lots of time and energy spent but the end result made it worthwhile.

Stewie;

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

Beautiful work!

Have you ever considered impregnating wood with resin to offer protection against an unthinkable dropping of the saw? I would hate to see a handle as pretty as that, cracked, and infused resin may offer some insurance against a break.

 

[swagman]

Beautiful work!

Have you ever considered impregnating wood with resin to offer protection against an unthinkable dropping of the saw? I would hate to see a handle as pretty as that, cracked, and infused resin may offer some insurance against a break.

Hi Tony. I personally have no wish to head in that direction. Resin impregnation certainly has a valid use within pen making.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

I am very pleased to mention that the Burl Handled Backsaw has just been sold. :yes:

Stewie;

 

[GLFaria]

I am very pleased to mention that the Burl Handled Backsaw has just been sold. :yes:

Stewie;

Not to me, unfortunately! What a lovely piece of wood, what a beautiful work! =D> =D> =D>

I may want to try making a handle for one of my saws, just to try my hand at it. How does one cut the slit in the handle for the blade?
The blade I intend to use is .8 mm thick. I have no saw with a kerf that thin, and all of them except the one I want to use have hardened teeth, so I suppose there is no point in trying to hammer these .
Must I buy an new saw just to make this handle? Seems an rather expensive way.

 

[swagman]

I am very pleased to mention that the Burl Handled Backsaw has just been sold. :yes:

Stewie;

Not to me, unfortunately! What a lovely piece of wood, what a beautiful work! =D> =D> =D>

I may want to try making a handle for one of my saws, just to try my hand at it. How does one cut the slit in the handle for the blade?
The blade I intend to use is .8 mm thick. I have no saw with a kerf that thin, and all of them except the one I want to use have hardened teeth, so I suppose there is no point in trying to hammer these .
Must I buy an new saw just to make this handle? Seems an rather expensive way.

There's a number of ways that it can be done. If you don't already have a backsaw that's compatible to the slot size your after your choices are extremely limited. I cut mine using a slitting blade fitted to a bench mounted router table. These slitting blades are not designed to be operated at higher speeds so a means of reducing the routers normal operating speed need to be in place before attempting this method.

Stewie;

http://woodworkingbyhand2.blogspot.com. ... tewie.html

 

[GLFaria]

I am very pleased to mention that the Burl Handled Backsaw has just been sold. :yes:

Stewie;

Not to me, unfortunately! What a lovely piece of wood, what a beautiful work! =D> =D> =D>

I may want to try making a handle for one of my saws, just to try my hand at it. How does one cut the slit in the handle for the blade?
The blade I intend to use is .8 mm thick. I have no saw with a kerf that thin, and all of them except the one I want to use have hardened teeth, so I suppose there is no point in trying to hammer these .
Must I buy an new saw just to make this handle? Seems an rather expensive way.

There's a number of ways that it can be done. If you don't already have a backsaw that's compatible to the slot size your after your choices are extremely limited. I cut mine using a slitting blade fitted to a bench mounted router table. These slitting blades are not designed to be operated at higher speeds so a means of reducing the routers normal operating speed need to be in place before attempting this method.

Stewie;

http://woodworkingbyhand2.blogspot.com. ... tewie.html

Thanks. I don't have a router, but the same method may perhaps be used mounting a slitting saw on the drill press. It may need a special bushing, though. I'll have to look into it.
Thanks for the link, too. Very nice work.

 

[swagman]

Your welcome. The slitting saw holder I use is seen in the following attach. row 2; 2nd pic from left. It can accept most internal dia. slitting saw blades. As seen in row 12; 3rd pic from left. The outer dia. of the slitting blade and the gauge thickness are your primary concerns to consider when purchasing. Have a look on ebay. That's where I purchased my slitting saw holder & blades from.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=slit ... 21&bih=601

good luck.

Stewie;

 

[GLFaria]

Thank you very much, you are being most helpful
My apologies, just one more question. Would you suggest a saw with the same nominal kerf, or a tad smaller? I never used a slitting saw before and have no idea if the slit might be somewhat enlarged in the end.