Adhesive suggestion to bond threaded rod into Bristol Lever?

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LancsRick

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As per the title really - I'm replacing a very small plastic wing knob on an M8 rod with a Bristol lever to make things a bit easier, but whereas the old one has a locking grub screw, this will be bonded on. Any suggestions on what would be best other than standard 2 part epoxy?

Cheers,

Rick
 
I've always just used epoxy but why not drill through and stick in a locking pin if you aren't sure. Easy enough use a nail or panel pin and threaded rod is pretty soft.

Bob
 
Brentingby":wtk7oumt said:
If you don't want them to ever separate, use Loctite 276 instead of 243.

50 quid!

Thanks all for the suggestions, looks like epoxy and a pin is going to be the best way.
 
Loctite does not have to cost £50 surely? Yes it's expensive for the amount you get, more expensive than branded printer ink, but the £50 (well, £36.32, Cromwell) is for 50ml, which is quite a big bottle considering you use it drop by drop. There are other Loctites in smaller bottles for just a few quid that will do the job admirably.
Personally I wouldn't pin in case I knackered up the teeth mechanism inside. As I say, if you want belt and braces, use a locking half-nut.
Penny-ha'penny each
 
LancsRick":1t9er6y5 said:
Brentingby":1t9er6y5 said:
If you don't want them to ever separate, use Loctite 276 instead of 243.

50 quid!

Thanks all for the suggestions, looks like epoxy and a pin is going to be the best way.

Plus VAT! Or you could use pound shop Araldite. :lol:
 
woodpig":3islj8zp said:
LancsRick":3islj8zp said:
Brentingby":3islj8zp said:
If you don't want them to ever separate, use Loctite 276 instead of 243.

50 quid!

Thanks all for the suggestions, looks like epoxy and a pin is going to be the best way.

Plus VAT! Or you could use pound shop Araldite. :lol:


How much is it?

:wink:

Pete
 
Steve Maskery":1ja9z66q said:
Personally I wouldn't pin in case I knackered up the teeth mechanism inside.

What difference does that make Steve unless the Bristol lever is temporary which doesn't seem to be the case

Bob
 
Well if the teeth get wrecked it won't work as a Bristol lever, will it? It's the teeth that allow you to engage or disengage the lever itself. Engage to tighten or loosen, disengage to park out of the way.
Or am I missing something (it wouldn't be the first time...)?
 
Steve Maskery":3dx5e822 said:
Well if the teeth get wrecked it won't work as a Bristol lever, will it? It's the teeth that allow you to engage or disengage the lever itself. Engage to tighten or loosen, disengage to park out of the way.
Or am I missing something (it wouldn't be the first time...)?

Erm ... well yes possibly if anyone was silly enough to drill through the main body Steve but you wouldn't. Drill hole and pin would be lower part i.e black metal on the one I've photographed not the orange handle.

Unless I'm wrong, the lever is screwed and secured on to the threaded rod and the action of the lever is via a sprung button on top which disengages the handle from a threaded cog inside, nowhere near the threaded rod.

Or have I got that wrong? Wouldn't be the first or last time for me either. :lol:
 

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Steve Maskery":18lhlczw said:
OK, I see.
I still think it is difficult and unnecessary, though!
:)
S
Yeah wouldn't argue with that really Steve except the bit about it being difficult, it really isn't.
I have a number of them in use and none have come off, a drop of threadlock or epoxy would definitely hold it and personally I wouldn't bother with a pin but it was just to make my point. Had one of those days today. :roll: :lol:

Bob
 
Loctite thread lock on Ebay, £2.10 inc carriage. I bought a number of large bottles at a boot fair probably going to be buried with what I'll have left.
 

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