Adams Workshop Build Thread.... got walls & a roof!!!

[Adam]

I bet you cannot wait until it's finished. Cheers Mike

No, but the back took a bit of a pounding, so I'm taking it easy. I probably could do something but more haste less speed and all that. So for a few days, I'm carefully nursing the back so its not aggravated any further, especially as its bank holiday weekend coming, and I'm hoping to get a bit done then.

Adam

 

[Mike.C]

Adam,

No, but the back took a bit of a pounding, so I'm taking it easy

Sorry to hear about your back. You really do need to take it easy because unfortunately the back is one part of us which if pushed to far will come back to haunt you for many years to come.

Have a good Easter.

Cheers

Mike

 

[DomValente]

Very nice Adam, mind your back mate, you only get one of them.

Dom

 

[Adam]

What luck, a whole week without rain. That meant everything was nice and dry and ready for felting.

Heres the inside, ready for insulation.

Heres the insulation. Stacked up in the garden.

Its seconds, so has some damage particularly to the corners.

Dads helping today - the back is better - but not perfect.

I'm using "easy-seal" from Wickes. Its a two layer system - sticky back felt basically. Its rated for habitable rooms, and it probably overkill for a workshop - but now isn't the time to start skimping. Its also easy to apply. If the roof is porous you can use a sealer - but we've used this before direct onto MDF and it seems fine.

The undercoat is complete.

Next stop is the capsheet - again its sticky back, with a narrow strip on the upper edge of each sheet, which sticks the next sheet down. The benefit of this system is their is no need to have any battons to hold it down. This in turn means no nails or screws need to penetrate the layers.

Next day, the bargeboards are on (front)

and back.

Basically, the rain held off for the entire assembly + felting. Since then I've managed to get 5 windows in (albeit temporarily) and the overhang should stop any rain coming in front and back. Unfortunately I ordered my double glazed units a little too big, so have to chisel about 3mm out of one short edge of the window. It's a pain, but not actually that difficult.

Hopefully, if I could get the rest of the windows in before the weekend, I could get the door on, and it'd be secure - that would be a big hurdle as I could leave things in it for once.

Adam

 

[Paul Chapman]

Looking good, Adam. I like that deep over-hang front and back - it should provide a lot of protection from the weather.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Adam]

Looking good, Adam. I like that deep over-hang front and back - it should provide a lot of protection from the weather.
Cheers :wink: Paul

Thanks, I learnt on the last workshop that it gets far too hot in the summer. The winter wasn't so bad as you soon warm up once you get started. Hence the apex roof as it will have a vented roof space which will keep it cooler - and at mid day, the small and large overhangs should help keep the sun off the walls. Thats the plan at least.

Adam

 

[Shultzy]

Adam, I like the idea of the "sticky-backed" felt.

A couple of questions :-

How easy was it to turn around the eaves?
My roof will be 17' long and as the underlay is 24', is it feasible to butt joint the sheet to save on waste?
Do the edges need to be sealed across the roof?
During the summer months the felt roof on my shed buckles due to the heat. Is this likely to happen to the "easy seal"?
How much overlap is recommended?

 

[wizer]

:tongue9: proper job mate

 

[Adam]

A couple of questions :-How easy was it to turn around the eaves?

As easy, or possibly a little easier than traditional felted underlay and capsheet.

My roof will be 17' long and as the underlay is 24', is it feasible to butt joint the sheet to save on waste?

Yes, provided their is a small overlap. Thats what I did. No idea why, but the underlay is 8m x 1m, and the capsheet is 6m x 1m. The end to end joints should overlap by about 80mm, and where the long edges overlap, again its about 70-80mm.

See here for a good explanation

http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wi ... gil/64.pdf

Do the edges need to be sealed across the roof?

None of the underlay has any additional sealing on any joins, but the end to end joins of the capsheet - they sell some mastic. This is needed as you are trying to overlap onto the grit on the top of capsheet. So you need maybe one tube or two for a whole roof (a few £s) If your roof is less than six meters, you could get away without any masticy-black-stuff at all. You use a standard dispenser like for sealing baths and showers. Along the long edges, the capsheet grit doesn't extend fully to the edge. Instead, an 80mm keepback which is sticky (and covered with more peel off plastic) sticks it to the sheet above once you put it down. In this way, each sheet is stuck down to the one below. I hope that makes sense. I've put a photo below. Any exposed "sticky" bits, you can get the grit of some offcuts by rubbing together, and sprinkle onto them to cover it up. For me, its just not worth it its so insignificant.

During the summer months the felt roof on my shed buckles due to the heat. Is this likely to happen to the "easy seal"?

Not quite sure what you mean. Is the wood warping or just the felt. My neighbour (who is a builder) used it to cover both his flat roof, and a large observatory with some really awkward joins around the turret, in an extremely exposed position facing out to the south cost and it worked really well. For me, that was all the recommendation I needed. South facing, on the coast, with harsh sun and severe wind - it was an ideal test for me to be happy to spend the money on it. Its not cheap, I reckon 50% more expensive than normal felt equivalent. However, its quicker, you can do it yourself and make a good job so its a balance.

How much overlap is recommended?

Basically all joints need to overlap by about 8cm. I guess its relatively small as it is actually sticks the the sticky bit below. So shouldn't rise up in the wind.

I hope that helps, feel free to ask any more questions.

Adam

 

[DomValente]

Looking good Adam,

As I understand it you are leaving the areas under the eaves open to the elements, so I assume that you will be installing a ceiling.
Will this give you enough headroom for turning long lengths of board and will you need to put netting over the open spaces to keep vermin out?
Or have I misunderstood ?

Dom

 

[mailee]

Looking really good Adam, can't wait to see it finished. :wink:

 

[Adam]

Looking good Adam, As I understand it you are leaving the areas under the eaves open to the elements, so I assume that you will be installing a ceiling.

Yes.

Will this give you enough headroom for turning long lengths of board

I hope so. The ceiling will be in three sections, matching the "A" frame, so it will be tallest in the middle.

and will you need to put netting over the open spaces to keep vermin out? Or have I misunderstood ? Dom

Yes I will need some netting, and no, you haven't misunderstood.
Plan is to box in most of the gap you can see at the top, and leave a small grilled vent at either end - to let the heat escape. I also need something under the eaves to stop things going up - especially bees and wasps. As a beekeeper, I store equipment and hives, and sometimes this can attract swarms.

Adam

Adam

 

[Shultzy]

Adam thanks for the info. Its the felt that's buckled. It was flat when I laid it, but during last summer its rippled in a few places as if its stretched in the heat. I was wondering if the the same would happen to your felt, but if its guaranteed for 20 years it must be ok.

 

[Chris Knight]

Adam,
Looks great! Enjoy the inside now before it has anything installed - it will look a lot smaller afterwards!

 

[DomValente]

Thanks Adam, interesting idea

Dom

 

[Anonymous]

Looking real nice Adam, and pretty big too. Make a nice change from the old one eh? :wink:

 

[swirlyhammond]

I'm about to claim our 12' x 8' shed as a workshop and I need to add electrics, so I look forward to seeing how you go about it.

Does anyone know if building regs can be avoided by putting a waterproof socket on the outside of the shed and running a beefy temporary extension cable to it?

I'd rather do that than face our local authorities!

 

[OLD]

The regulations came about because people were plugging in electric mowers through the window to the kitchen or into the garage etc when they cut the cable with the mower and got injured they changed the regulations ,to make any place you can plug a external device (mower) protected by a fixed residual current device (rcd). As house wiring has been done to different standards over the years the regs. bring it all up to date.
So swirlyhammond your proposal has no rcd protection unless the main wiring system has one and is not safe ,remember electricians don't mind some one doing the heavy work so they connect and test.
A electrician can do all the work you do not have to inform the council if you use him

 

[davy_owen_88]

Does anyone know if building regs can be avoided by putting a waterproof socket on the outside of the shed and running a beefy temporary extension cable to it?

I'd rather do that than face our local authorities!

If you don't want to notify it yourself there is no way around it besides getting a sparky in who is a member of a self certification scheme such as NICEIC.

What you suggest will not work, ever. Firstly, fitting outdoor sockets is notifiable. The biggest extension lead you are going to be able to get is 2.5mm² which has a max. rating of around 25A but since the extension lead will have a 13A plug you'll need a separate extension lead for every socket outlet you require, making it a rather expensive bodge.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but these regulations were brought in to reduce the chance of dangerous ideas like this being implemented.

Oh, and Adam, it's looking great. Good job!

 

[Shultzy]

Adam, another question about the felt. I was hoping to put 4" x 5/8" t&g on the roof and I was wondering if its suitable to go under the "easy seal" as any shrinkage might compromise the felt? Couldn't find any info on the wickes site.