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The guys at my local TP always discount the retail prices without being asked. Get very good service from them (Eastwood). The manager who started there has apparently moved to Ripley (Ryan) and is very helpful.

If it's small stuff you can buy "plastic" wood and similar that retain some flexibility and yet are still sandable. Other alternatives include mixing saw dust with cascamite or similar. If it's large consider dutchmen.

I got mine from http://www.a2a4.co.uk/

There's a triton circular saw (ex display) for £89 (I think) at Eastwood B&Q. No box or instructions and may be other bits missing. Also all their Trend router bits 1/4 and 1/2 inch (3 boxes full) are up for grabs at half price. Also Trend templates for letterboxes, lettering, butt hinges etc...

A quick bit of google fo woudl suggest that oils like linseed and such like dry by oxidation rather than evapouration. Not quite sure how that works, but oxidation is an exothermic reaction (gives off heat) and so there is the potential for it to generate enough heat to ignite.

I hope I'm not in breech of the forum rules with this, if I am then mods please remove. I've been asked by a colleague if I know anybody who may be interested in a lathe since his father died and it is no longer required. I thought somebody on here may be interested before it goes on eBAY...

Ah, ha!! Many Thanks

I think this may have been asked before but I can't seem to find it. I'm looking at producing some kind of bathroom freestanding cabinet. MDF, probably circa 18mm would seem to be the way to go. I'm planning on finishing in white gloss so that should seal it, but I suspect I ought to be...

Mine doesn't have a power lock, thankfully. Worst kick back I had from a hand held was cutting wet floor joists.

Sure, got them from http://www.a2a4.co.uk/acatalog/1_4_CSK_ ... S_UNC.html

If you're not prepared to go with dovetails (easy of you have a jig) then maybe go with dados (I'd use those to attach back to the sides anyway). TBH with modern glues, a dado to hold the front to the sides will probably suffice. I might be tempted to add a biscuit or some dowels perhaps.

You use the base plate screw holes on the Triton.

Blimey, I just bought the Dakota table mount from Rutlands (flat rather than crowned) and used the concentric circles to mount the router centrally, worked a treat.

Maybe not the most helpful response, but my Myford lathe has a sanding disk and table attachement. Worth considering perhaps if you have a lathe?

I know nothing, but it sounds like you may be forcing the blade or the gap is closing up on the blade. Can you get a hand held circular saw, far more robust for this kind of job?

A router springs to mind with a suitable template, but you will end up with slightly rounded corners. You could square these up with a chisel. Otherwise I'm guessing it's a jigsaw of somekind.

I suspect you'll need the services of an electrician if you go the invertor route. From what I have seen, most have a standard 240v supply, probably wired back to it's own breaker on the MCB. The machinery is then hardwired in to the invertor or on occasion may be done via a 3 phase plug...

I have considered invertors etc and certainly 3 phase should give smoother running and more power. However, it is also worth considering looking for a suitable 1 phase 240V motor and swapping it over then flogging the motor on eBay. If you're creative you can also user a 3 phase motor to act...

I cleaned mine up then a coat of Hammerite red oxide followed by hammerite plain blue gloss, worked a treat

I see a trip to B&Q coming on! :D