router table trouble

[selly]

folks i'm confused.

I've got a sip router which i want to mount in a table. i have bought the insert plate and table top from axminster.

I can't figure out how i affix the router to the plate. Do I remove the old plastic baseplate? The screws holding the baseplate are tiny and too short to affix through the insert plate as well. i have tried to re thread a hole in the router to make the thread holes a bit bigger but have broke one now.

So how do i do this. The insert plate holes don't align with my router. do I get some screws to thread through the insert plate and into the plastic router plate - this doesn't seem like it would be strong enough to hold.

confused.

 

[j]

Usually, you remove the plastic plate from the bottom of the router.
Get some longer machine screws to go through the router table insert, into the existing holes that were used to hold the plastic bottom on.
Drill holes in your insert plate using the plastic router base plate as a template (making sure it is centered first).

It sounds like your insert plate has holes that don't line up with the fixing points on your router. You'll have to drill new holes.

HTH
J

 

[wizer]

Selly if you are referring to a Big Triton router then may I refer you to this previous thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... ton+screws
AND
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... ton+screws

 

[George_N]

I don't know the SIP router, so I can't comment on it specifically. Take off the plastic baseplate and use that as a template to mark out and drill the holes for attaching it to the table mounting plate. You may well need to get a longer set of screws. I have used countersunk screws for mine and so far it has worked fine but pan-head screws are probably better. If you go for pan head screws you will need to counterbore the holes to set the screws below the surface of the plate. Does the mounting plate have an opening for the router bit to pass through? If not, chuck a 1/4" bit in the router and screw on the router plate, then plunge the router to give you a centre hole in the plate. Use this centre hole as a pilot for a hole saw to cut out the opening.

 

[WellsWood]

Have you tried removing the existing baseplate to see what's underneath? You may find that there are other mounting holes only exposed when this is removed. My big Ryobi is like this, tiny countersunk screws hold the plastic baseplate on but below is a set of M5/M4 holes for alternative mounting.
Table inserts generally have to be drilled to match whatever mounting hole positions your router has. Getting them to line up nicely can be tricky. Try making a drilling template out of 6 or 9mm MDF to check that your holes are spot on, then use that as your guide for drilling the base - much cheaper that way if you get it wrong at first.

 

[selly]

thanks.

it is a bit clearer now. I'll remove the baseplate and get some longer screws for the router and insert plate and countersink them. Should work fine then.

Broken one thread but three should hold.

Entry level router i know but should be good enough to have some fun with.

 

[George_N]

If there is enough metal around the screw hole it should be possible to carefully drill it out and re-tap the hole to a bigger size without weakening the mounting.

 

[chippy1970]

You should not be fixing it to the insert with the screw holes designed to hold the sub base on, even with longer screws.

Most routers should have purpose made threaded holes that allow you to fix it to a router table and also you should not need to remove the sub base.

If yours has no mounting holes then it is very strange as all the routers I have ever hade have proper mounting holes.

Is the router a cheapo one if so that may explain it.

If you have to use the holes then use them but I wouldnt.

 

[Digit]

If there aren't holes larger than those that held the plastic base in place, don't use them, they are not suitable.
If necessary make some cleats out of hardwood, aluminium, or thick plastic for example, but those four holes holding the base in place are for that purpose alone.

Roy.

 

[OllyK]

You should not be fixing it to the insert with the screw holes designed to hold the sub base on, even with longer screws.

Most routers should have purpose made threaded holes that allow you to fix it to a router table and also you should not need to remove the sub base.

If yours has no mounting holes then it is very strange as all the routers I have ever hade have proper mounting holes.

Is the router a cheapo one if so that may explain it.

If you have to use the holes then use them but I wouldnt.

You use the base plate screw holes on the Triton.

 

[Digit]

You use the base plate screw holes on the Triton.

Ah! But most manufacturers don't yet seem to have cottoned on to the fact that we use their products upside down in a table.
All my routers use 3mm screws for the base plate.

Roy.

 

[chippy1970]

I thought someone said the Triton was the ideal router for table use well why has it not got proper fixing holes dedicated to fixing it to a table ?

 

[Woody Alan]

I thought someone said the Triton was the ideal router for table use well why has it not got proper fixing holes dedicated to fixing it to a table ?

It has the holes are the inverted mounting holes and serve as a baseplate fix when out of the table. Slightly the other way round to the ongoing discussion. I guess it's another thing that sets it apart.

Alan

 

[wizer]

You should not be fixing it to the insert with the screw holes designed to hold the sub base on, even with longer screws.

Most routers should have purpose made threaded holes that allow you to fix it to a router table and also you should not need to remove the sub base.

If yours has no mounting holes then it is very strange as all the routers I have ever hade have proper mounting holes.

If you have to use the holes then use them but I wouldnt.

Why? I don't understand why this is an issue? You replace the baseplate screws with longer ones, the base plate is not removed. What's the issue.

It's worth noting that the Triton IS designed specifically for table use. But use in the Triton table. For which it uses it's own method of fixing it to the table.

http://www.triton.com.au/documents/download.php?id=119

 

[Digit]

I have 4 routers, all of which use small diameter base plate fixings with just sufficient thread in the router to hold the plastic base in place, in these cases the holes are not designed to hold the weight, side thrust nor vibration from a heavy router.
They are simply there to hold the plastic base on.

Roy.

 

[chippy1970]

You should not be fixing it to the insert with the screw holes designed to hold the sub base on, even with longer screws.

Most routers should have purpose made threaded holes that allow you to fix it to a router table and also you should not need to remove the sub base.

If yours has no mounting holes then it is very strange as all the routers I have ever hade have proper mounting holes.

If you have to use the holes then use them but I wouldnt.

Why? I don't understand why this is an issue? You replace the baseplate screws with longer ones, the base plate is not removed. What's the issue.

It's worth noting that the Triton IS designed specifically for table use. But use in the Triton table. For which it uses it's own method of fixing it to the table.

http://www.triton.com.au/documents/download.php?id=119

Its all very well replacing them for longer ones but if they are only a small diameter like the ones I have seen holding the plastic bases on then that is no good cant you see ?

The ones on my Dewalt 626 for table mounting are maybe M6 something like that. Whats the problem with providing dedicated mounting screw holes ? then you would not have to remove the plastic base

 

[Jake]

Its all very well replacing them for longer ones but if they are only a small diameter like the ones I have seen holding the plastic bases on then that is no good cant you see ?

You are at cross purposes. The Triton was designed primarily to hang upside down. Unlike most routers, the plastic sub-base for use the 'right way' up is a bit of an afterthought. It is attached by the same size screws (but shorter) in the same holes as are used to hang it upside down, rather than the different itsy-bitsy ones which are used to hold the sub-base on most routers.

The ones on my Dewalt 626 for table mounting are maybe M6 something like that. Whats the problem with providing dedicated mounting screw holes ? then you would not have to remove the plastic base

The Triton ones are 1/4" UNC, which is a bit bigger (and therefore by your criterion better) than M6. I have no idea where the plastic base for mine has gone, it's a remove and chuck item if you have any other router for handheld use.

 

[Woody Alan]

The ones on my Dewalt 626 for table mounting are maybe M6 something like that. Whats the problem with providing dedicated mounting screw holes ? then you would not have to remove the plastic base

Why would you want to leave the plastic on? when it's removed there is a perfectly flat base which will mate to the router plate with no flex or movement whatsoever. Whatever make of router you use. The plastic/paxolin is only there to give a slippery surface when handheld.

Alan

 

[Slim]

Why would you want to leave the plastic on? when it's removed there is a perfectly flat base which will mate to the router plate with no flex or movement whatsoever. Whatever make of router you use. The plastic/paxolin is only there to give a slippery surface when handheld.

I suppose, if you ever wanted to drop it out of the table to do a bit of handheld work, then the plastic base is there.