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I have the Incra system complete with router lift. It is very accurate and repeatable. It works as a traditional router table and jigs for joinery such as dovetails. Whether it was worth the additional expense, the jury is still out but I think it was. I got it to do some of the complicated...

Bob it is not about trying to convince Jacob, I realised long ago that that was impossible. What I care about is other less experienced people thinking that just because Jacob will never shut up about his ideas he must be right. In particular, his theory that when it comes to two push sticks...

Jacob, as was said last time, if you think two push sticks is best practice let us know when HSE agrees. Until then the best practice in the UK remains 1 it is preferable not to use the planer on short pieces. Hand planing such short lengths or not making them short lengths is preferable 2. If...

Jacob, HSE guidance is not just about emulation it is about best practice The reason a push block is recommended on the planer is that it is better at keeping the piece from taking flight if there is kickback. Your push sticks do not hold the piece as stable as a push block.

Jacob, here we go again. HSE do NOT recommend push sticks for the planer. That is not an oversight or them being a bit vague. They very clearly recommend a push stick for a table saw and a push block for a planer. The only exception is when you were allowed to rebate on a planer with a Shaw...

That looks about knee height for the purpose of walking into it!

I used, router ala Custard, travisher (much under rated for chair seats), spoke shave, good hand stitched rasps and then a sander. You can use more aggressive machines but they are noisy and you would be amazed what can be achieved with a well tuned travisher used across the grain.

The good news is that there is an attempt to re-introduce elm into England I have three saplings coming along nicely.

As an apprentice, I was taught to strop (as in removing the last traces of a burr) on the palm of my hand. You have to appreciate that those hands were as tough as leather from years of working wood. Also for blades narrower than half inch you had to use leather anyway as it was too dangerous...

Once you have drawn the window on your "rod" there should be no need for your tape measure as all measurements should be transferred from the rod. Thereafter as Peter Sefton says the saw should be accurate. If you are cutting multiple components to the same length a stop on the fence ensures...

Same here and it was in a single garage. I made a front door with side lights and a set of garage doors with it.

The log should be either in contact with the table or there should be a bed on your cradle so that the log cannot move downward

Titebond also do an extended glue with a 24 hour cure time. Not much use to you Sunnybob, but it is available at Axminster! I have not tried it yet but was thinking of giving a go.

I think I would change the top to something stable. You could try sliding dovetails or you could get the metal brackets with slotted holes and fix them to the inside edge of your gallows brackets and the top. But I doubt anything will keep new? pine flat

Murrmac, I am not sure it is helpful to suggest riving knives are generally not needed simply because you are able to work in a way that reduces the risk of kickback. The reality is in the UK we use table saws to rip timber. As such a riving knife is an essential safety device and a legal...

I cannot help thinking what a waste of Sycamore and effort converting it. Why not get something more utilitarian for the bench top and save the Sycamore to make something that shows the beauty of Sycamore. My first bench was made from Redwood with an MDF top.

Jacob, if it is a one off you can come over here and use mine. You are only 40 minutes away. However I am not in again until Friday.

Sorry, I might be being thick but why would you want a bigger diameter than 300mm in a table saw arrangement?

Felder sell a 5mm blade grooving/dado/finger joint blade. The one I have is 300mm diameter. I think they also do a 230mm blade.

Either of the methods you suggest work. A sharp chisel and paring thin slices is the way to work. The marking gauge/knife line gives you a clear datum to work to. The other part of the process is practice. They say the first 1000 dovetails are the hardest.