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Maybe £600/month

Sanding sealer basically does what most initial coats of finish do and that is to raise the grain. So the surface becomes rough. The difference with sanding sealer is it contains a stearate soap(cellulose and shellac but they do have to be vigorously shaken) this stops the sandpaper getting...

Not sure but is it sapwood? Pale wood from outside of the tree.

Just imagine the way the cutter must spin and the nut undos the same direction from the face. Inertia will tighten that nut. Easier to imagine a lathe chuck and picture how it could undo if used in reverse. The wiring is a single plug split to 2 starters going to 2 motors. The starters aren't...

I've got an original tm3

I use a thick m42 blade and find it's often the wood that moves pushing the blade off. But as often nothing happens and it's fine. Thin blades can wander if there not newish.

I'd think it would work OK using epoxy glue.

Even if your chairs aren't as great you'll be well set to continue making more than one.

Tom thackeray s travishers are good but unhardened gauge plate. Of course this keeps the radius predictable(during hardening these would warp) but there not the best. The dowels he makes using rounders. A course can be a good way of starting because there's lots of specialist stuff needed but...

None of the items you've listed are really essential imho. There more for people who chose the green wood trad tools way. I'd consider how you will bend the bows and how your gonna drill the holes make thin dowels and form the tenons. At this point I'd suggest jack Hills books and ashem tools...

No it won't have quite the same build but each coat of cellulose melts into the last and is the reason its usually sprayed if multiple coats are used as it drags.

Burnt sand mastic is just linseed and dry sand. In the appropriate colour its perfect for pointing stonework around timber windows. But were talking a fillet. Like you'd use putty size. Bigger bits need something else. Contact a few companies with pics for the best way/ materials.

Just make the frame. Put in plumb and disguise any issues using mouldings, fudges. It's time honoured and something someone whose worked on old joinery becomes more adept at! Plumb walls are a rarity. Therefore plumb frames within the depth of the wall lead to tapered wedges to flush everything...

Deema did you ever get round to making those blower alterations? Just interested. The first systems allowed the air to constantly bleed through the gun. I guess opening a bypass in the box kept the dust down(and allowed some baffles)

It's surprising how changing the gun can completely change the spray set up. I purchased a cheap ebay gun and it's coarse but effective with water based. The very tight expensive guns are not the best for thick stuff but are best with thin lacquers(compressor is far better though) remember with...

I made some fixed ones. See bevel slat shutters post

My graco hasn't ever leaked. My old fuji gun was somewhat prone to blocks. Tbf I changed how I used these systems so I only spray solvent through hvlp now.

It's not that domino's are inferior it's just putting 10 large full depth domino's in perfectly is a tricky undertaking. Both for the machine and me. In doors they are hugely inferior being unwedged and quite tiny. (And expensive)

A t40n is a bit more compact. Still 3kw though.

I would suggest a medium duty. Used. Complete with everything Inc sliding table, ring fence, power feed, tenon plate, micro fence even a tilting spindle. And as people have mentioned as much tooling as possible. The actual machine is 1/3, 2/3 is the other bits. A power feed is totally essential...