Resawing tips

[Deadeye]

I'm making some door panels and need to halve some 230x32mm (section) timber.
I've planed both sides, so it's now just over 29mm, and I'd really like to get 12mm panels...so trying to get a kerf and two planed faces out of my last 5mm!
Any tips to keep the blade from drifting?
I could cut a tablesaw groove each side - I can get just under 90mm each side. Would the groove help direct the bandsaw blade? My tablesaw blade takes 3.2mm so really can't scuff the faces much with the bandsaw.

Thanks!

 

[Cabinetman]

Hi, 230 minus 2x 90 only leaves 2 inches which I would suggest you cut with a handsaw, a cheapish hardpoint will do it without any fuss if that’s what you have. I would do each 90 cut in two halves btw. A Bandsaw won’t necessarily follow the tablesaw kerfs as well as a handsaw. Best of luck, and don’t forget to put the cut timber in stick with weights on the top until you are sure it has stabilised.
Ian

 

[johnnyb]

I use a thick m42 blade and find it's often the wood that moves pushing the blade off. But as often nothing happens and it's fine. Thin blades can wander if there not newish.

 

[Jacob]

I'm making some door panels and need to halve some 230x32mm (section) timber.
I've planed both sides, so it's now just over 29mm, and I'd really like to get 12mm panels...so trying to get a kerf and two planed faces out of my last 5mm!
Any tips to keep the blade from drifting?
I could cut a tablesaw groove each side - I can get just under 90mm each side. Would the groove help direct the bandsaw blade? My tablesaw blade takes 3.2mm so really can't scuff the faces much with the bandsaw.

Thanks!

Yes the kerf slot will help. It's a handy way to split a board even if you could do the whole thing on a bandsaw. The slots guide the blade.
Main problem you might have is boards cupping as you saw them - can be better to split the sawn board before planing anything as you then have a bit more scope for correcting things.
NB trad panels usually thicker than your 12mm - fielded to a narrow edge to fit the rails/stiles slot. Better job perhaps. Plain fielding with no mouldings is easy with a sharp plane. Long grain bevels first then cross grain easy. Fitted flat side out to best face, but variations are common.

 

[Sam Kilby]

In my experience deep cutting never really works as you expect it to. Doesn’t really matter what saw you use, hand, band, double rip table etc.

I’ll qualify that by saying with kiln dried timber it doesn’t - case hardening and a moist core and all that. I believe it leads to masses of internal tension, which always pops open when performing the cut to give you two useless bananas
Anyway, personally I wouldn’t deep cut anything that needs to finish thicker than say.. 3mm. As that would be inherently floppy ish and not self stabilising, therefore doesn’t matter so much that it comes out the saw as a banana
I had quite a few people advise me of this too, but had to mess it up a couple of times myself

 

[HOJ]

You haven't really got any scope for re correction after resawing, bet your bottom dollar they will either bind or spring when you saw them, possibly making both pieces unusable.

I regularly resaw wide stock, but wise enough to know the failure rate is high with such a small margin, so I don't even consider doing it.

Not a particularly good example, but I've been cutting some long Oak boards and work on my own now, so I bit the bullet and bought a wood to fence holding gizmo gadget thing (which works really well):



If you follow the line of the cut wood in the piccy, you can see how much its bent, its was straight to start with, (but it's only 100mm tall)

 

[niall Y]

I regularly used to buy packs of planed 6x1 to make pine furniture. A friend in the timber trade spotted that the stock was resawn 6x2. It was slightly under thickness, but otherwise performed well.
However I've never had much luck doing this myself, for all the reasons mentioned previously.
Although it is very wasteful, it is often better to reduce it to the thin sections needed, on the planer/thicknesser, taking the same amount from each side.

 

[Jester129]

@HOJ - where did you get the "wood to fence holding gizmo gadget thing" from please?

 

[Gary B]

Its by Bow Products - you can pick them up from Woodworkers Workshop....

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/bow-products-guidepro-bandsaw-guide/

 

[HOJ]

you can pick them up from Woodworkers Workshop....

If they had stock I would have.

Mine came from Axi: wood to fence holding gizmo

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

An alternative fence for resawing ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Jester129]

@Derek, I'll give that a go when I get my new shop finally sorted, many thanks.