Workshop Build

[kirkpoore1]

Morning Nick,

...
Regards...****.

PS. Billy Buntus has a good point. I have wall and roof windows and it is a pain when the sun comes out. The first thing that is required is curtains, because of the glare.
Also fluorescent lighting gives much reduced shadows, as opposed to daylight. But, it is nice to be able to see outside; if it can be managed, try to fit windows on the north elevation. This gives the kind of light that artists use, so if you get fed up with woodwork :shock: you could always change tack

See ****, didn't I tell you you'd be the expert by the time you were done with your shop?

Nick, I think your shop is a little small for side windows, but a skylight or two would probably help a lot. Around here you can get them in tinted glass so the glare is so bad--maybe that will be an option for you.

Kirk

 

[treds1]

You maybe right about the windows, but I am really keen to have some natural light and will also help to make the building a bit softer aesthetically rather than just a large box at the bottom of the garden. Ill have to give it some thought. I may also be stuck with them as they are on the planning application!

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi Kirk,

Ah, but the definition of an expert - X is the unknown factor, and spert is a drip under pressure....that’s me :shock: :wink:

Nick,

I have to agree wholeheartedly with your reasoning to Kirk. They were and still are my views too. It’s just that the reality of the sunshine pouring in is a pain, so budget for some blinds.

Regards...****.

 

[kirkpoore1]

Nick,

I have to agree wholeheartedly with your reasoning to Kirk. They were and still are my views too. It’s just that the reality of the sunshine pouring in is a pain, so budget for some blinds.

Regards...****.

The blinds will keep prying eyes out of the shop, too. But you'll have to dust them regularly.

Frankly, the more natural light you have the better. If you can afford to give up the wall space, go with the windows. In that case, plan to put in shelves before moving your stuff in. It's easier to do stuff like that when the shop is empty.

Kirk
who has been having too much fun running dust collector pipe around machines...

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Don't forget that windows are a lot bigger security risk than a wall-- sometimes there's a trade off.

 

[Charlie Woody]

Nick

If you do have windows and the sunshine becomes an issue and / or for security you can do what I have done .... make "blinds" our of 6mm MDF and hinge them from the top of the window frame. You can then fold them up towards the ceiling and secure them with out of the way .... I use some chain with a hook on the blind and the end of the chain screwed to the ceiling. Add paint to the blind and you have an easy clean cheap solution.

 

[treds1]

Will definitely be installing curtains/ blinds, to stop any prying eyes, though a shutter of some form isn't a bad idea as far as security is concerned.

Thanks for all the advise, I just want to get started now!

Regards

Nick

 

[treds1]

Right planning permission sorted, and now have a rather large hole at the bottom of the garden ready for the base.

I'm amazed at the volume of soil generated, still shifting it into a skip, rather glad that its cooled off somewhat that makes the process easier, hopefully should get it finished tonight.

I guess everyone likes picture so here goes.

One quick question

With the hardcore , would you put this within the shuttering, or would should I have a slightly larger area of hardcore then sand and then the shuttering on top. It probably does not matter to much I guess but thought I would ask the question.

Cheers

Nick

 

[simocco]

You maybe right about the windows, but I am really keen to have some natural light and will also help to make the building a bit softer aesthetically rather than just a large box at the bottom of the garden. Ill have to give it some thought. I may also be stuck with them as they are on the planning application!

sky light?

 

[Charlie Woody]

Personally I always keep the hardcore within the shuttering - leave about 75mm of a void. Then when you pour the concrete this keeps the hardcore from view and also stops it from moving out from under the base. Yes it is hot weather for ground work .... just done a small base for garden shed and found it hard going in the heat!

 

[treds1]

Thanks Charlie you have confirmed my thoughts, definitely makes the most sense to do it the way you suggested.

Managed to move the majority of the soil last night, will finish off tonight, then I just need to break up the hardcore some more. Ill be glad once the ground works are done and I can actually start building the workshop.

I am looking for windows at the moment, has anybody made their own, or is it not really worth the time involved?

Cheers

Nick

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hunt around, you might be able to pick up mis-measures from a double glazing supplier. The size isn't that important if you've not yet built.
I made mine, they didn't have to be opening, and I picked up glazed units from 6 old bar fridge doors.

 

[Noggsy]

Treds, good luck with your build. It's worth taking the time to look through Cedigfa's build for inspiration and also for the odd, ahem, pitfall that he came across. It's a fairly lengthy read, but very interesting and inspiring in my opinion and certainly should provide you with loads of ideas. I also found it assignations to see the way that other people helped out with technical and other help. As I say, good luck and keep the pics coming.

 

[treds1]

Hopefully I may have found a supply for windows, new but slight seconds for a reasonable price, the guy is getting some more at the weekend so will have to see if anything is suitable.

Noggsy ill check out the thread thanks.

 

[treds1]

Things are starting to progress at long last, finger crossed on the weather but the base should be poured on Thursday and then I have next week off to get cracking with things.

I'm just about to put in my timber order, and am debating on whether or not to go with pressure treated timber what are peoples thoughts?

I was planning on using pressure treated for the roof trusses / ridge and also for the sole plates, but is there any real benefit using pressure treated for the framing?

Cheers

Nick

 

[treds1]

Well its been a busy 10 days! Things have finally started progressing with my build so thought i would post a quick update with a few pictures.

2.5 m3 of concrete poured and steel ties set into base. Luckily we managed to get the only dry day of the week even though the concrete didnt turn up until 3pm it had cured enough to be able to cover with a tarp before the good old British weather went back to usual.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-td_d ... AG0492.jpg

Having previously never really laid any bricks, it took a couple of days to get the brick plinth finished. I was really pleased with the outcome, but i was glad that i only had to do two courses.

Unfortunately good old British weather decided to carry on, but as i had booked the week of work i decided to just get on with it and get wet so with the help of a gazebo to keep my tools dry things progressed.

Luckily towards the end of the week the weather cleared and I managed to get the frame completed.

Currently working on the roof, hopefully ill manage to get it completed before work gets in the way on Monday.

Its really satisfying how quickly the framework goes up after spending so long planning and sorting out the concrete slab unfortunately things will slow down now due to other commitments and have to order the rest of the materials (OSB and cladding) before progressing much further.

I have also been considering ventilation of the roof space, i am planning a 50mm gap between the insulation and the roof boarding with openings at the eves, do i need to include a vent at the ridge of the roof to allow air to escape? If so are there any recommendations on the best way to achieve this?

Nick

 

[Dibs-h]

I have also been considering ventilation of the roof space, i am planning a 50mm gap between the insulation and the roof boarding with openings at the eves, do i need to include a vent at the ridge of the roof to allow air to escape? If so are there any recommendations on the best way to achieve this?

Nick

Or full fill the roof, use breather-able membrane on top and counter-batten. Then use a dry fix ridge system - Klober & Marley both do one. Makes fixing the ridges easy and vents as well.

HIH

Dibs

 

[treds1]

Dibbs

Thanks for you reply.

Just to query is a dry fix ridge system suitable for use with Felt shingles? as I thought that they were for use with ridge tiles?

Cheers

Nick

 

[Dibs-h]

Dibbs

Thanks for you reply.

Just to query is a dry fix ridge system suitable for use with Felt shingles? as I thought that they were for use with ridge tiles?

Cheers

Nick

Having fitted more than I care to remember - I don't see why they couldn't be used on felt shingles. Suppose the real decider is what ridge tiles you'd be using. If using felt ones - then probably not.

Dibs

 

[treds1]

Things moving along well, though progress is slower due to work / weather etc, but i am hoping to get the roof on this weekend, and then start on the cladding.

Dibs - I am planning on using the shingles at the ridge, so does not look like a dry ridge systems will work but thank you for the suggestion.

I am still unsure what to do at the ridge, I have been looking at other build threads for inspiration on what to do at the roof's ridge, and the majority of build don't seem to include any ventilation system at the ridge, and only eves ventilation.

Am I worrying to much over having some form of ridge vent, or will things be okay without. (I do have to keep telling myself that this is a workshop not a house!)

Any thoughts would be welcome

Cheers

Nick