johnf
Established Member
Hi did you get planing permission for this grand design
workshop build
- Thread starter pitch pine
- Start date
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ByronBlack
Established Member
Excuse my ignorance, but what does paining engine oil onto the timbers do?
I'm enjoying the pics so far, with the dolomite, and the faded colours, it looks like these photo's are from the seventies
I'm enjoying the pics so far, with the dolomite, and the faded colours, it looks like these photo's are from the seventies
pitch pine
Established Member
The engine oil was painted onto the inside of the formers I used to make the concrete plinths to allow them to be removed when the concrete had set......just like greasing a cake tin... the main timbers I just cleaned up the visible surfaces with a hand plane.
Here is a shot of the roof structure:
Underneath the grey tyvek are some cedar sheathing boards. The battons on top are spaced for cedar shakes. All of this lot (and the pitch pine) came from EBay. The framed openings are for skylights, which in hindsight are one the best features of the building.
I has never used cedar before and was amazed with the smell and surprised that such a light wood is so durable.
The barge boards are sliced from the 8x4" pitch pine, about 1.25" thick. These were cut on a huge stenner bansaw at a local sawmill. Took some pursuading for him to cut reclaimed timber, though at least the blade was lubricated with diesel to stop everything being coated in resin.
Here is a shot of the roof structure:
Underneath the grey tyvek are some cedar sheathing boards. The battons on top are spaced for cedar shakes. All of this lot (and the pitch pine) came from EBay. The framed openings are for skylights, which in hindsight are one the best features of the building.
I has never used cedar before and was amazed with the smell and surprised that such a light wood is so durable.
The barge boards are sliced from the 8x4" pitch pine, about 1.25" thick. These were cut on a huge stenner bansaw at a local sawmill. Took some pursuading for him to cut reclaimed timber, though at least the blade was lubricated with diesel to stop everything being coated in resin.
head clansman
Established Member
Hi pitch pine
looking really good now , love the roof lights in hindsight wish i done them when I built mine . a real traditional build with shingles nice , keep the pics coming . just a thought are you going to leave the ridge in where it can be seen through the roof lights . hc
looking really good now , love the roof lights in hindsight wish i done them when I built mine . a real traditional build with shingles nice , keep the pics coming . just a thought are you going to leave the ridge in where it can be seen through the roof lights . hc
pitch pine
Established Member
yes the ridge is visible in the finished building. I like it. See what you think when I post that.
Here's me starting the shakes:
Here's me starting the shakes:
Ironballs
Established Member
This looks like a good build, nice work.
BB you stole the words from my mouth with 70s look
Does the Dolomite run?
BB you stole the words from my mouth with 70s look
Does the Dolomite run?
crazylilting
Established Member
Nothing to add here but am enjoying the build process. One of the nicest workshop builds so far. Thanks.
pitch pine
Established Member
The dolomite is dead. I used to run a Triumph as my everyday car (ie not an immaculate show car) but found myself spending alot of my spare time fixing something that had broken. The crunch came when I had to change the gearbox, in winter, in the snow, with no garage.....and then the cylinder head gasket went!...Then I bought a car built in Japan that always works. Still I really miss driving them, but 15000 miles a year takes its toll. The best was the 1300 front wheel drive. Dead comfy seats, good road holding and a lovely revvy 1300 engine. Anyway this is a wood forum!
MikeG.
Established Member
I'm not sure about your ridge detail, but it looks to me that you need another course of (cut) shingles........
Someone is bound to mention the H&S aspects of your home-made access arrangements! You may not have needed it if you had started roofing from the tradtional bottom right-hand corner.
Its all looking good to me!
Mike
Someone is bound to mention the H&S aspects of your home-made access arrangements! You may not have needed it if you had started roofing from the tradtional bottom right-hand corner.
Its all looking good to me!
Mike
head clansman
Established Member
Hi pitch pine
My thoughts on your ridge were , depending where the sun or even day light is at certain time of the day it will throw a shadow across a large amount of the interior of you work shop , seeing you already have a second ridge built above it why not remove it, keep as much natural light as possible.
Mike when the ridge capping is fitted the spacing is fine.
P's never the less it's still a quality build , keep those pic coming .hc
My thoughts on your ridge were , depending where the sun or even day light is at certain time of the day it will throw a shadow across a large amount of the interior of you work shop , seeing you already have a second ridge built above it why not remove it, keep as much natural light as possible.
Mike when the ridge capping is fitted the spacing is fine.
P's never the less it's still a quality build , keep those pic coming .hc
MikeG.
Established Member
head clansman":2hq149w3 said:
You can only see what I can see.......and as we have no way of knowing how wide the ridge will be, you can't say with any certainty that there isn't a need for another course. If the ridge comes down to the same line that the next course of shingles would, then you would be right.........it just looks like the ridge would need to be very wide to do that.
Mike
head clansman
Established Member
Hi Mike
well, IMHO if an other half course of shingle go's on then it's a very narrow ridge capping which won't look right with the rest of the shingle depth of spacing, if the view is to keep it all the same spacing then there only space for a wide capping left. anyway it don't really matter what you & I think it's down to pitch pine persnal preference. hc
well, IMHO if an other half course of shingle go's on then it's a very narrow ridge capping which won't look right with the rest of the shingle depth of spacing, if the view is to keep it all the same spacing then there only space for a wide capping left. anyway it don't really matter what you & I think it's down to pitch pine persnal preference.
hcpitch pine
Established Member
Mike you are right, and I did add another course of (cut) shakes.
Didn't know about starting from the bottom right hand corner when roofing...like my H&S arrangements most of this build was "home made"!
Rest assured I had frequent safety briefings with myself.....
Didn't know about starting from the bottom right hand corner when roofing...like my H&S arrangements most of this build was "home made"!
Rest assured I had frequent safety briefings with myself.....
MikeG.
Established Member
pitch pine":2bkgt5js said:
Almost every roofing type, including thatch, is usually started at the bottom right hand corner. That way, not only do the laps work, but you can stand on the battens to work on the roof.
I hope you are taking notice of your safety briefings!!!
Mike
crazylilting
Established Member
What if your left handed?
billw
The Tattooed One
crazylilting":39a7yeg1 said:
I was thinking exactly the same thing
MikeG.
Established Member
Yep, good question!
With most tiles, it is about the tile lap rather than about you (the tiler).......and so you still would have to start in the botton right hand corner (unless you wanted to pick up the corner of every tile you put on the roof to shove another one underneath!!!).
Thatch, could, I reckon, be started in the bottom left hand corner, as could slate and shingles (as pitch pine did here)......but if he had started in the other corner he could have worked right handed and still kept one foot on a batten.
Mike
With most tiles, it is about the tile lap rather than about you (the tiler).......and so you still would have to start in the botton right hand corner (unless you wanted to pick up the corner of every tile you put on the roof to shove another one underneath!!!).
Thatch, could, I reckon, be started in the bottom left hand corner, as could slate and shingles (as pitch pine did here)......but if he had started in the other corner he could have worked right handed and still kept one foot on a batten.
Mike
pitch pine
Established Member
Mike the more I think about starting at the left with the roofing the more sense it makes. I do remember alot of moving around delicately! Ah well, I know for next time.
More progress with the roof. That is frost on some of the shakes, but at least it was a dry winter when I did this:
One side finished showing the colour of the cedar:
The skylights are in too, but without the flashing done yet. Mike I didn't use the ladder at that angle, honest!
More progress with the roof. That is frost on some of the shakes, but at least it was a dry winter when I did this:
One side finished showing the colour of the cedar:
The skylights are in too, but without the flashing done yet. Mike I didn't use the ladder at that angle, honest!
pitch pine
Established Member
Some more photos. This one shows the timbers I added to form the windows, door and to allow fixing of the vertical siding. The floor joists are in too.
I have also started the siding on the right hand side. This was "board and batten" ie 6" boards with a plain edge fixed vertically butted up to each other and a 2" strip covering the gap. More of those later.
Here is the roof again before I peeled off the protective plastic from the acrylic glazing:
During peeling:
And after with the lead flashing done:
Mike looks like I didn't add an extra row of shingles after all....
My rough temporary bench:
Not a thing of beauty but very useful.
I have also started the siding on the right hand side. This was "board and batten" ie 6" boards with a plain edge fixed vertically butted up to each other and a 2" strip covering the gap. More of those later.
Here is the roof again before I peeled off the protective plastic from the acrylic glazing:
During peeling:
And after with the lead flashing done:
Mike looks like I didn't add an extra row of shingles after all....
My rough temporary bench:
Not a thing of beauty but very useful.
